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Showing results for tags 'tps'.
Found 15 results
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Hey guys just wondering if I can get some clarification on this refrigerant pressure sensor wiring. I bought a 3 pin pigtail to wire in a refrigerant pressure sensor and I just want to make sure I'm reading the schematic and connecting it properly. My ECU doesn't have anything in pin 57 so I put a pin in and ran it to the WHITE wire on the pigtail. Then pin 48 to the BLUE wire and connected the GREEN wire to ground. After doing this I went for a drive and my CEL came on. The car also had jumpy acceleration. Since pin 48 is also the power source for the throttle position sensor I'm wondering if I messed up or reversed the wiring somehow. Any help is appreciated, thanks! -
Anyone know what could be causing this problem on my r34 rb25det neo - when the car is just idling the revs are really low however it doesn't stall. When you put alot of load on the accelarator and then suddenly step on the break the car will stall/almost stall. I have checked; Vaccum lines Serviced the car 10000ks ago Checked and cleaned AFM Wondering what it could be? Im thinking a sensor issue... Any ideas would be really helpful. -
Hello all, Ive been doing some extensive trouble shooting regarding my TPS signal voltage. The car is a 1990 r32 GTST with a RB25DET S 2.5 ( last production before the neo, has neo ecu, neo cas, neo maf). But the TPS is the s2. Back probing the signal wire i get ~4.5 volts but also unplugged i get about the same.. ive gone as far as removing the TPS signal wire from the ECU plug and testing at the ECU pin 23 which is getting the same voltage which means its getting it from the ecu... ive tired a stock ECU and a WC34 NIStune ECU and they both do the same thing.. that car drives and runs a little on the rich side. The only think that changes the voltage is if i pull the ECCS relay it goes down to ~1v or if i unplug the grounds it goes up to ~8 volts any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Hi SAU, HELP!!!!!!!! i need to know the TPS voltage range for an R34 GT4 ATESSA ECU. 32/33 GTR 0.3v - 2.5v 34 GTR 0.5v - 4.5v does anyone know if it’s 32/33 or 34 spec? does anyone have a 34 gt4 and a multimeter that can test pin 37 (tps out) on the factory engine ecu? thanks in advance daryle
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The motor is an Rb25de from an R34. I noticed my tps voltage was .20 closed. I adjusted it to oem specs at 4.5 or so and that's when I started getting the high adle around 1300-1500. If I unplug the aac the idle goes back to normal. If I set any values on the aac in consult the idle goes back to normal. I thought I may have a bad tps and installed a new unit but the same thing. The aac adjustment screw is all the way down (and broken so I cant back it out again). I've cleaned it out a while back but never had an issue until now. Not sure why my idle is screwed now because I touched the tps..
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Hi all, So this is somewhat of a noob question, and after much searching SAU, FB, and the interwebs, i cannot find any concrete info on how to reset the TPS position on an RB25 neo. Some background on why i need to do this: I had been chasing an electrical gremlin where the car would die after hitting the limiter( which turned out to be an incorrectly set Nistune rev limit parameter). During the whole process, i had checked the TPS voltages, and noticed that when the TPS was closed it read 0.30v, and at WOT it would read 3.63v. The resistance sweep in both directions was correct. Now, obviously this is out of Nissans specified window, and when i try to adjust it, it just idles up (to about 2000rpm) and the TPS IDLE indicator in Nistune does not illuminate, and adjusting the IACV does nothing to reduce the RPM. I've read you could leave the battery disconnected, or cycle the ign on and off 10 times etc etc but none of these have worked. The only thing i have yet to check (which i should have done earlier) is to refit my original Neo auto TB, which i had swapped over to an S2 RB25 TB (because the TSC TB solenoid fouled on my coilpacks), my thinking here is that maybe the S2 TB doesnt open/sweep the same way as the Neo? (im still using the neo TPS) Anyone with any tips? Much appreciated.
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hey there guys have been a long time reader but first time posting i have recently had my 96 S2 R33 with RB25DET at the tuner after a bunch of new mods he was having an issue with the car hesitating for a second or 2 when the throttle is jabbed quickly.. making it feel quite un responsive and laggy ( throttle is fine otherwise, just has to be increased slowly.. its most noticable down low or when giving it a quick rev in neutral) he believed it to be a TPS issue so i got a new NISSAN TPS the same as what i had in the car. which surprisingly was a S1 TPS (obviously with a S1 Throttle body too, installed by previous owner) with the extra plug and fly lead hanging off it.... he managed to tune it ok but it still has the same issue - just to clarify ive got it plugged into the fly lead plug not the one on the bottom of the sensor.. i believe this is the signal plug so this is a two pronged question 1. other than the way the the TPS mechanicaly connects to the throttle body are the sensors both the same electronically? 0.5 - 5v DC? - if so it shouldnt matter that i have a S1 sensor on a S2 motor 2. when i tested it i seem to be getting 0.6v at closed throttle and 3v ish at WOT.. i believe its ment to be 0.5 - 5v from what ive read on SAU.. i have hesitated to adjust it as dont want to screw up the tune i have just had... but is this likely to cause the problem i am having.. or is it possible he has compensated for these incorrect voltage readings in the ECU (VIPEC) or something? any assistance would be greatly appreciated.. and ive been searching for a couple hours and couldnt find anything that answers this completely.. so sorry if this is a repeat post thanks caleb -
Hi guys, does anyone know the different angles of the throttle butterfly valve with respect to the rpm range of the engine? I also need to know the air flow rate with respect to the rpm of the engine. The engine must be a rb25det, preferably running with stock turbo, stock boost and stock intake manifold. I know most of the info can be obtained by consult software like Ecutalk, but I don't have access to a consult cable. I need the info for some CFD work. Any help would be much appreciated! Sam -
Hi guys, does anyone know the different angles of the throttle butterfly valve with respect to the rpm range of the engine? I also need to know the air flow rate with respect to the rpm of the engine. The engine must be a rb25det, preferably running with stock turbo, stock boost and stock intake manifold. I know most of the info can be obtained by consult software like Ecutalk, but I don't have access to a consult cable. I need the info for some CFD work. Any help would be much appreciated! Sam
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Rb25 tps question...yes I've searched need clarity Hi guys I've been searching on the forum and I am getting mixed info on what the tps for an rp25 should be set at for WOT. I adjusted throttle plate closed to 0.50v and when I check WOT I'm reading like 4.1-4.2v I searched and found a thread saying this was correct however another person said that's incorrect and it should be same as rb20.. 0.50 closed and 4.5 wide open. Can one of the guru set me straight on this please? -
R31. Help with ics and TPS. Hi all. Hot a problem with my idol switch and Throttle position switch. I managed to get them working sweet this week with no stall and fuel problems. But then this morning got in and started her and it was sluggish on takeoff again and gluggy when sitting at lights. Last week I managed to get the faults on the computer sorted so they didn't flash for fault 23,24. But now comp reads there faulty again. It looks like that haven't moved at all so just wondering if anyone can help befor I start the process of fixing them again. Cheers
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R34 gtt TPS would anyone be kind enough to go take a pic of the first plug off the tps connector i just realised that i have no signal and its probably the fact i rewired it a little bit back and got the wires wrong thanks for you help in advance
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RB25DET NEO stalls once its warm
L0N3S0MER4NG3R posted a topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
RB25DET NEO stalls once its warm Hey guys my RB25det R34 has recently developed a problem where the car decides to stall once it is warm, this tends to be when i am at traffic lights stopped or crawling pace, has also happened when ive been in the lower rev range but i have found that so long as i keep the revs above 3k rpm it doesnt happen. i have checked coolant temp resistances and they all look about right when cold its 3250 ohms and warm 230 ohms. The wires to the o2 sensor have been cut for as long as ive owned the car and worked fine for 2 months then started this problem so key points, -Dies once warm -Coolant temp sensor looks good -seems to be fine with higher revs car specs: STOCK RB25DET NEO with fmic, turbosmart bov to atmosphere, link g4 ecu Thanks in advance -
Hey guys. Wanting to put a TPS on my aftermarket throttle body. Just wondering if anyone know what fits? Can I just run the standard rb25 tps into it? The motor is a rb25/30 in a r32 and the tps was originally 3 wire. I have the run new wires to the ecu as they're not there anymore and the ecu itself is Microtech lt10s.
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Hey SAU people, Been stalking this forum for a few weeks now as i have recently purchased an R33 S1. I have read most of the diy and have done them. i.e. climate control diagnosis (due to problems but have figured it out) & have cleaned the acc and was resetting my idle (as it was idling way to high 1500rpm then only sometimes sit on 800-900rpm) and while i was there was going to do a ecu diagnosis & tps voltage set but a problem occured. Before i start the main problem i have is that i bought a car that i dont know the history on, which is okay in my books because its my toy to play around on, pull apart and learn even more. All i know is that it had an engine swap about 4 months before i bought it with receipts to prove. Cleaned the acc valve and connected it back up, now while i was resetting the idle via the idle screw on the acc with the tps disconnected i wound the screw all the way in and the idle was still on 1500rpm @ operating temp. So out came the ecu to look and adjust the idle screw on it, Nothing just two hole with no screws just chips and resistors down there... Okay hmm interesting, looked at the sticker on the ecu to see if it is genuine or aftermarket and i cant tell, on the sticker it says " Nissan genuine remanufactured electronic control unit ", (refer to pictures) now the thing that threw me was the word remanufactured on the sticker is this right?? So i thought to myself okay while i am at the ecu ill do a diagnostics test, okay where is the selector screw cant find the either. Great so stuff that off the set the tps then come back to it. So away i go probing the tps wires nothing coming up, okay multimeter stuffed? probe the battery up comes a reading, wtf is going on, it was getting late, so i decided to see something now i disconnected the tps plug, started the car still idling on 1500rpm. Took off expecting to stall nothing, everything was normal, took it around the block hit the limiter everything is the same with the tps disconnected. Pulled over on the side of the road and the idle came down to 700-650rpm because the idle screw is screwed nearly all the way in, cool its idling good now but why?. Turned the car off for 5 mintues started it again back up to 1500rpm took it for another thrash still idling at 1500rpm. Now wtf is going on?? The car is a 1993 R33 with hicas, abs & A-lsd, please refer to pictures for the questions below: - Does s1 A-LSD models ecu look like this? - Is this a standard genuine ecu? - What is that orange button thing next the screw holding the harness in the ecu? - Is it possible the engine swap was with a s2 engine with s2 sensor? are s2 sensors the same as s1? - Shouldn't the car behave like a pig with the tps disconnected when throttle is applied?
