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Found 5 results

  1. Hello, I have this issue and im suspecting something is up with the diff/LSD. Whenever the car wants to lose traction it starts hesitating be either either a left, right turn, over a bump, from stationery up a hill turn where the wheel starts losing traction it starts bogging down but at speed it hesitates like ABS lol I have a FPR and it shows fine pressure from the fuel pump and it does it also when the tank is full so i dont think its to do with fuel. car is R33 GTST
  2. R32 Adjustable Arms Hi guys, I'm chasing front castor rods, rear traction arms, rear camber arms and a Hicas Lock bar or Delete Kit for my 32. I am in Brisbane, so can pick up locally but will also pay postage for the right item. Thanks, Aaron
  3. R34 GTT Traction Control, SLIP and Engine light on Hi guys, A few days ago when I was driving I noticed that the Traction Control OFF, SLIP and Engine Light had all turned on all of a sudden. The car didn't drive any differently (no miss-fires, performance loss or anything) so it seems something else is up. I disconnected the battery and re-connected it which temporarily stopped the issue for a few minutes (this was after a cold start however), but now it's back. Any ideas what it could be? I've done some research and some people are saying throttle bottle (I've checked the cables), coil packs (these were brand new only a few years ago) and a few other things, but there is no definite answer. How can I go about getting this fixed? I don't want to fork out $500 on coil packs only for it to not be the issue. Thanks! Picture for reference:
  4. Yaw/G-sensor issue. Hey guys, I wired a switch into the orange wire of the Yaw/G-sensor under the centre console. I was really careful with handling it and to not let the wires touch the body, however now i'm not able to reactivate traction. The orange wire has no power running to it any more. I've tried 1. reconnecting the orange wire (removing the switch from the circuit), 2. resetting the ECU, and 3. checked TCS fuse. Any help would be greatly appreciated as i'm at a complete loss over here. Cheers guys :-)
  5. Hi guys, this has been covered only a hand full of times as far as I can see and none have definitive answers on actual lengths, only the theory behind changing traction arm length. So, today Christian and I from Sideways motorsport in Brisbane tested a number of different traction arm lengths in a r34 gtt and measured toe through from full droop to full compression to measure bump steer (toe changes with changes in bump). Firstly, we removed the rear coilover, and removed the wheel. Christian then made a little jig to fit to the hub of the vehicle out of stainless plate that we bolted on to the hub using the wheel nuts, then setup a string line parallel with the hub and took a measurement of the distance from the string line to the hub from the front and back of the stainless jig / plate. We then jacked the hub up to full compression and measured the change in distance from the front and rear of the plate. We then had the measurement in mm for the toe change through the wheel travel. We tried a number of different traction arm lengths, from fuly extended to as short as possible. The least amount of toe change we found was with the traction arm set to 7mm longer than standard from centre of bolt hole to centre of bolt hole. The ride height is around 330mm and camber -2 in the rear. My question is what lengths have other people tested and found that a certain length minmises bump, im asking because the jig we made is relatively crude and my guess is a little bit of human error would certainly be involved in the measurement process. Any insights on this matter are most welcome !!
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