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Hi all, Bought a shift knob yesterday and was just wondering the best way to install it. I know of the double vice grip method but has anyone actually broken anything from just twisting it off without using them? Purely asking as I dont have vice grips on hand at the moment, and people seemed to have gotten away with just twisting it. Thanks
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Chasing an R34 GTR Tailshaft/Prop Shaft and Front Prop Shaft. Ready to buy, please PM me or reply to this thread.
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Hey guys so I need a bit of help. i read a thread on here about a shop called MV Autos over there in Australia that does a pretty awesome modification to the automatic trans in the r32's. Seemingly, it requires the car to be shifted manually and there is a shifter kit to go along with this? any info would be great!! Please and thank you! i reached out to MV auto but no response. Are they the only shop that does this? I have a specific reason for wanting this vs a manual gearbox she arrives stateside this Friday and I'm dying to get going right away with the modifications. -
Need some help with my speed sensor on the RB20DET. I've pretty much figured out where it's located, on top of the transmission, hard to reach without dropping the exhaust. The question is WHERE does it plug into on the harness? I know that the revolution sensor aka speed sensor on the RB20DET in the R32's is supposed to be mechanically driven, though...I've got a shielded cable with a white and red wire coming off of them. Whoever did the motor swap did some wacky wiring and I have no idea where anything goes now. I'm assuming that my speed sensor is electronic then? It's the RE4R01A trans (A/T) so I need anyone with an A/T to give me a hand right now with this. I spent the past several weeks tracking down diagrams for the TCM which are non-existent, diagrams to the transmission plugs (again non-existent) and searched this site up and down and kept getting zero results. The last question would be, IF I maintain the electronic speed sensor on the transmission, how would I wire it up? What plug did anyone use on their RB25 (those are electronic I believe). Obviously any and all help is greatly appreciated. -
Like the title says, ISO wiring diagram for the A/T R32 4 speed. I can't seem to find one anywhere. Since I can't find the harness, I'm going to see if I can just snip some connectors off of my old chassis harness and re-pin them for the various wires. If anyone's got a lead on the diagram that'd be amazing. Also, can someone throw up a picture of their fuse box? There's 4 plugs on the side for the autos, I want to see what plugs go where. I'm assuming 3 plugs are for the transmission inputs since there's 3 sets of wires, the other plug I'm assuming is either alternator or something else? Thanks!
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Hello guys, I picked up a nice little 2003 350GT-8 with a buggered CVT gearbox, I fitted a secondhand CVT gearbox but was unable to rectify the faults. After about 1 year of spending time trying to find the faults, I decided I would make the leap and convert the sedan to a 6MT from a 350Z. Please try and refrain from writing things like "WHY DIDNT YOU JUST BUY A MANUAL TO START WITH" etc etc. I don't care. The car cost me $1500 licensed and all, and 2k for the conversion. Still cheaper than buying a 350 6MT. This post will contain as many photos as possible as I progress through the build. This will be continually updated as I complete the stages. I have never been able to find out about mounting the handbrake lever, or the legalities on cutting the transmission tunnel out to fit the gearbox. I hope to provide some light on these matters for the next person to take on the conversion project. Removed CVT and threw it in the skip bin. Best feeling of my life. GOOD RIDDANCE. Removed the following; Carpet (needed a clean anyway) Front and rear seats Center console HVAC and anything in my way Witing harness Airbag module, Gyro & Traction control module. (NOTE ANYTHING WITH YELLOW PLUGS IS SRS AIRBAGS, MAKE SURE BATTERY UNPLUGGED ALSO DO NOT FLIP OVER THE SRS MODULE FROM UNDER THE CONSOLE, IF YOUR BATTERY IS CONNECTED OR IT HAS CHARGE IT WILL SET OFF YOUR AIRBAGS. IVE SEEN IT DONE. VERY DANGEROUS.) Brackets and really anything you see is going to slow you down. Mock fitted the console and handbrake assembly to see the alignment. Measured gearbox to the tunnel. Pictures of the handbrake assembly and how it DOES NOT match anything on the original tunnel, I guess you could make up a few brackets and cut some holes but that is dodgy and I want this thing to be as good as factory when I am done. I have a manual tunnel from a 350Z, I have decided to remove the inner skin that has the moulding for the manual trans and the handbrake that I require. Once done will be as simple as bolting it all onto the new inner skin as per factory. I was able to drill out the spot welds with a Spot weld cutter available for $20 its like a little hole saw. I have a qualified boilermaker / engineer on hand to weld the skin into the cars existing tunnel. There are A LOT of little spot welds not marked with arrows, the arrows are just pointing out a few of the ones I started to cut out. More photos and info to come! Thanks -
What aftermarket ecu's are people running in their 98' R34 four door? I'm still stock as a button auto and wondering How others went with bypassing the immobiliser? Cheers!
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so i need to remove the radiator from my 250t rs four which has been converted into a 6 speed manual out of a 350z. it is still using the stock radiator so it has lines going into the radiator for cooling the transmission from when it was an auto. So, are the transmission lines connected at the bottom to the two brass fittings? (photo attached for reference) these have nothing attached to them so i am not sure what they are for, other than that. i think i may be mistaking the transmission fluid lines for something else as the lines I want to remove are on the passengers side of the radiator and coming off the side of it. this photo shows the lines i need to remove. Any help would be appreciated. cheers
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So like i have an rb25det in a nissan laurel,and it has a transmission hooked up to it.since i bought the car it had an issue whereby when accelerating,the car seemed to be slow and sluggish,like if it was lacking air,and after a while it drived like normal,also it had an idle problem (only when in drive not park)the car would give a bad idle as if it had bigger cams,(not that it had any).This idle problem wasnt constant though,it happened randomly.But when the accelerator was floored it ran like a beast.however i recently had a problem when i put the car into reverse.immediately it would shut off.no bogging nothing just cuts off as if i turned the key off.i was wondering if yall could shoot some ideas my way.Thanks in advance -
It's time to start clearing out my parts stash that's been gathering dust for years... R33 GTS-t gearbox, as removed from my R32 GTS-t (due to crash). Comes with - - R32 GTS-t tailshaft modified with a VL turbo front yoke (changeable uni) and balanced - Spacer/adaptor for crossmember to body - Shifter - Crossmember and modified gearbox mount - R33 electronic speedo drive (also have a cable speedo drive, but needs modifying) - No slave cylinder... All in good working condition, syncros and gear selection are perfect. $1700 ONO I'm in Lilydale (3140) Phone or SMS 0418 299 539, or PM me. Cheers, Darren. -
RB25 det gearbox. In good condition. Only selling as I'm abandoning a track car project so it is at this point an unneeded spare $1500 Willing to work a deal with an rb25det engine Located North side of Brisbane Contact me on 0401297648 or [email protected]
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Looking for a half cut for an engine conversion. Not settled on one type of engine so let me know what you've got! Would prefer a complete half cut but if it's an RB20 or 25 I can get away with just an engine and gearbox as wiring parts etc. are easy to come by. PM or SMS on 0418 922 780
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I am selling a reconditioned RB20 Manual Transmission that was removed from an R32 Skyline. This transmission is tight and was reconditioned around 5-10k ago. This gearbox is nice and tight and would suit all aplications. Price: $650 ono Text me on my mobile if interested 0 4 6 6 5 2 1 2 1 4
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Hi Guys, Well after having the transgo for about three weeks now I have to say im not impressed. In manual mode the 2>3 shift is very clunky and if i floor the car in drive regardless of what speed im going the down shift is very aggressive: like someone rear-ended you. I have noticed several issues with my car: 1) On several occasions in D at WOT the transmission would upshift way before redline (at ~5k rpm) and the change was not crisp or fast at all...I would say even worse than the stock transmission. 2) Another example is if im doing approx 60-70km/h and i floor it in D the transmission will downshift, then upshift, then downshift again. 3) Sometimes if im in D and i floor it, it takes 2 - 3 seconds for the car to react. During the few seconds before it downshifts it just accelerates in the gear that it is currently in (5th if im just cruising). 4) In D if i floor it the transmission will SLAM into gear with a loud bang...is this normal? I have reset the ECU by leaving the battery disconnected for about 10min. This didnt change anything. Has anyone had the same or similar issues with their transgo? I had it installed by a well know auto transmission shop in Perth but im now wondering if it was not installed correctly.
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I've had this issue for a while but it comes and goes and is progressively getting worse. I keep getting the A/T Transmission Check Light (AT Check). It used to come on periodically, usually during "spirited driving" in tiptronic mode however for the past 2 or 3 days it comes on as soon as I put it into drive and stays there for the entire drive. Transmission dipstick says it's full of fluid (although It's probably been a while since it was replaced), Just did an oil change so that's full. Any thoughts? I also occasionally get a clunk sound between gears after driving for a long time and usually between 3 and 4 or if that helps? On a side note, this is also similar to the airbag light that used to periodically come on and could be removed with the key to reds then off method and then it would dissapear for months but now it comes on straight away afterwards. Could this be related? /anything I can do about that. Any help would be greatly appreciated There are hundreds of little electrical gremlins in my stagea (2004 M35 250tRS4 btw) haha. -
Left my 1993 r32 gtr sitting for several months. gearbox was sticky and hard to get in and out of gear but was still manageable. car sat for another month or so and is now stuck in neutral. engine on or off makes no difference. Please help!
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Hi all, I'm going to be upgrading my auto r34 set up and I'm going to install some new gauges. What do people think about prosport gauges ? Also to install the boost gauge can I use any of the factory wires/ connections ? Lastly does an engine oil temp gauge work for trans temp ?? I can't find any trans temp ones so I was thinking about using an oil gauge and sensor for it ? Cheers guys
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FS: R34 GTT & GT brake boosters, BM50 & BM44 BMC, DBA T3 310mm rotors, AN10 Hoses, R34/R33 transmission parts [MEL] Replacing my previous for sale thread with this updated one, here goes. For sale: 1. R34 GTT brake booster with BM50 master cylinder – $100 2. R34 GT brake booster with BM44 master cylinder – $100 3. DBA T3 4000 310mm rotors x2 for R34 GTT front, worn – $80 for the pair 3. Leaky Driftworks braided oil cooler hoses with crimped AN10 fittings, for spares – $30 4. R34/R33 transmission parts – $80 See below for details. All parts in Melbourne near Essendon, pick up only. PM if interested. --- 1. R34 GTT brake booster with BM50 master cylinder – $100 I was going to replace mine with this but my issue was elsewhere. Was sent to me as a working unit but I haven't tested it, you're welcome to inspect in detail The plastic fork collar is cracked on one side (see photos) but this shouldn't affect operation The master cylinder doesn't have BM50 stamped on it, however the outer diameter is the same as the BM50 on my GTT so I trust it's the same unit --- 2. R34 GT brake booster with BM44 master cylinder – $100 This was sent to me by mistake when I was after the GTT booster+master. Was sent to me as a working unit but I haven't tested it, you're welcome to inspect in detail This is in slightly cleaner condition than the GTT BM50 The BM44 BMC outer diameter is slightly smaller than the BM50 --- 3. DBA T3 310mm rotors – $80 Rotor are about 2 years and 20,000 old, with several track days on them I believe one of the rotors is slightly warped, it's fine for street use but does vibrate in hard braking (runouts are 0.10mm and 0.04mm) No visible cracks or significant heat stress marks on the surface Rotor thickness 29.1mm (new 30mm, minimum 28mm) --- 4. Leaky Driftworks braided oil cooler hoses with crimped AN10 fittings, for spares – $30 Hose lengths are 115cm and 135cm This is heavy duty braided hose about ~25mm outer diameter The AN10 hose fittings for each hose are 90 degree elbow at one end and a straight one at the other. The fittings need a good clean. Caveat emptor: These hoses leak at the straight end, so you'll need to replace those two crimped hose end fittings. Standard Speedflow etc. AN10 fittings won't do because this hose OD is larger than the Speedflow AN10 hose. --- 5. R34/R33 transmission parts – $80 RB25DET manual transmission parts: $50 - R33 Series 2 fuse box to gearbox wiring loom $40 - R33 GTS-t manual coupe tail shaft rear part $20 - R34 turbo gearbox clutch fork (pull type) RB25DET automatic transmission parts: $25 - R34 GTT auto brake pedal $40 - R34 GTT auto sedan tail shaft front part Or $80 for the lot of trans parts. --- Notes: All prices ono and all parts in Melbourne near Essendon, pick up only. Only items specifically listed above are available, there are some in the photos that are gone -
Filling transmission oil through gearstick? So after having to cut off the boot that goes on the bottom of the shifter (previous owner didnt use a circlip instead used a hose clamp and tightened it with hulk hands) I'm now stuck as to what to do next. I cant change the fluid through the actual transmission because the filler plug has been tightened by hercules. What do I do next to fill the transmission oil? And does anyone have the part number for the boot that goes on the bottom there? -
Hello Hello all! I have just joined and wanted to say hello to fellow Stagea enthusiasts. I have an M35 Stagea that I bought last year and I am LOVING it! She has a few simple mods but I will slowly give her more as time goes on. So far it has brake lock mod, transmission cooler and 3" turbo back exhaust system. I enhanced the look with some Simmons wheels. I do have a few questions for those in the know.... What type of auto transmission is in them? It's a fantastic auto and when I give it a boot full, it likes to hold at a rev and hold that rev through every gear. It's almost like it pre-selects the next gear or has a stally or something? Does everyone's do the same? Also, it takes a good five minute run before it goes into 5th gear, even if I manual shift. Wondering if it may be a solenoid on it's way out or the fluid needs changing or is wrong fluid? The other question I have is, I have seen the WC34 models with R34 fronts on them and they look amazing! Can I do this to my M35 or is it a completely different deal? What basic mods would you guys recommend for me to do to enhance performance? Thanks in advance for any thoughts and it's great to be here!
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V35 VQ25DD manual trans swap So I'm new to here, and I hope people still monitor this forum. I am posting for a buddy. He just partially swapped the 25DD to manual 6 speed (from the 350z). After the swap, he is having crazy ABS problems. He will be driving, then all the sudden the ABS will kick in out of the blue and the breaks pulsate as if you are depressing the brakes even though your not. He took he ABS fuse and removed the two slated in the engine bay as for the abs. Problem still exists. This happens at random times and if you stop and shut off the car, it will reset. Btw, this was the same issue we saw on a VQ35 on a manual way, but the ECU in the 35 was less straight forward, and it was assumed the problem resided in one of the couple ECUs on the VQ35. If you know someone who did a 25 manual trans conversion, or know the answer please help me
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Transmission help pls Ok so my Nov'04 v35 has a sick transmission. I called around and found one out of a wreckers that came out of a '04 coupe which was supposed to be the same. The mechanic tells me the wiring harnesses are completely different so they are not compatible (may be different valve bodies). Has anyone had any transmission issues and can point me in the direction of a transmission expert to resolve this ??
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another V35 CVT story Not sure if I should start my post by 'Hi' or 'Help' Let's try Hi... Hi every one, I have a 2003 v35 350GT8, not rolling at the minute. The transmission 'disengaged' while I was on the freeway and now just refuses to engage at all, forward or reverse. I do get a slight jerk when I try to press the accelerator, but that's about it. I'm looking at 2 options, bite the bullet and get whatever I can get for it in the current state, or do a trans swap. I guess my questions now would be: - If I decide to sell it as is, what sort of price do you think I could hope for? -If I go with the trans swap, what would be involved, how much would that cost and do you guys know anybody on the central coast NSW that could do this? Thanks guys, bebetaz
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Hi All, Looking to buy the stock RB25det engine with complete ECU loom coupled with the Transmission for a project car @ $2.5k max Could you please 'pm anything you may have in relation to the above.
