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Showing results for tags 'tune'.
Found 21 results
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Hi all, I've just started learning a bit about tuning, I'm half way through reading Engine Management: Advanced Tuning by Greg Banish which I'm enjoying so far. I've got an R33gtst with very basic performance mods. Haltech pro plug in, 3" turbo back exhaust and a turn flow front mount. Engine-wise everything else is stock (engine, turbo, injectors etc). I've just installed a wideband, air temp sensor and oil temp sensor which are happily chatting with the Haltech. I did my first data logging run today and I found the results both terrifying and confusing. Is anyone able to help me interpret my data log? The thing that has me confused is, why at 6000rpm and 11psi is the car at 100% injector duty cycle and 15 AFR? My first thought is there is issues with the fuel pump, possibly it's old and struggling and when the car was previously tuned, they tuned around the issue by having the injectors stay open for longer to compensate for dropping fuel pressure. But this is me guessing, I really have no idea lol. The other thing that has me worried is, shouldn't I have encountered some form of engine failure by this stage? I've been driving this thing for years, done multiple track days, drift events and 15 AFR with pegged injectors on WOT seems very dangerous to me. I've attached a screen shot of the data log. If anyone wants to look at the full log of 200 or so channels feel free to PM me and I can send it to you. Cheers -
So just brought a power FC, go to plug it in and it won’t connect, laptop keeps saying “please check ecu connection”. Car start with it plugged in so it works, just won’t connect to laptop. Has anyone else had this issue and have a solution?
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As the weather is warming up I've noticed that my 32gtst is not starting from cold as easily as it does or should compared to winter time, we just had a really cool morning and the car started first crank, when the engine is at operating temp restarting is fine, always first crank, it just has an issues starting first start of the day when ambient temps are over 25c Any suggestions before I start playing around in nistune?
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Selling as whole, x1 Platinum plug and play ecu for R34 GTR $2295rrp x1 Can wideband o2 sensor controller $199rrp x1 I/O expander box $450rrp wiring for all ^ paid over 3k for all Willing to post at buyers expense Open to offers -
Proud owner of an RB25 R34 Skyline running 85.
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rb25de+t R34 na+turbo conversion
R34 rocket bunny sedan posted a topic in Engines & Forced Induction
OK so need some help please people just turbod my na r34 and am checking if what it's doing is OK before my tune on Thursday OK so I'll start with parts I'm running... And post problem last Rb25de neo R33 5speed gearbox conversion Was using rb25 one but think was near dead New rb25turbo hasn't arrived yet R33 turbo manifold Gtt injectors R32gtst4det fuel pump Power FC ecu stock gtt base tune atm Big front mount cooler Turbo smart bleed valve New 3"pipe decat and r32 custom dump R34na 02sensor R32gtst4det afm I wired in also tried 34 na one OK so my problem is it misses bad under boost only.. disconnect turbo runs sweet can this be my ign timing when boosting? Just want it all good and ready for my first tune as never had one what should I get done in the tune and what boost 5? And just get fuel/air and some timing pulled/retard etc...also haven't tried yet as my new turbo is on its way but the one I was using was blowing smoke and whining and no matter what it was stuck on 7-8 psi my hand controller wouldn't turn it down so waste gate? Over boost could've been the problem? -
hi all, ive reciently brought a 2002 stagea. im looking to firstly get the fuel consumption down and secondly get the power up. i thought there would be more grunt available from the 2.5 V6 and 16.3 liters per 100 in town seems too heavy. (im getting 9.5 on the open rd) ;-) ive just done the plugs and fuel filter and service - no change. the mech put it on the dianogstic and says the o2 senson is due. research shows the main reason will be the o2 sensor. also possible fixes: new temp sensor high tyre pressures 98 octane (ive been thinking 91 would be cheaper) id like you views on the above and any other tips does it have 1,2 or 4 o2 sensors? where to buy? http://o2sensors.com.au/search/application?makeID=29&modelID=2575&engineID=3037 $200 each http://www.amayama.com/search/?q=22690AL600 varyies on oem or copys.. are non nissan parts ok? thanks for your input. jim
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Selling my plugin vipec ecu complete fitted in case. It's ready to be plugged in and tuned. On board 4 Bar map sensor does away with the need for air flow meters. Launch control is awesome for boost off the line and consistent starts. Many features included in this ecu and anything is possible. Ability to setup upto 3 boost levels in the ecu and map 3 tables activated on a dash mounted toggle switch etc.. It's been used for less than 6 months, selling for $1600 Located in Brisbane but will ship at buyers expense Contact me via mobile 0402829091 Deren -
I have an A'pexi S-AFC 2 up for grabs, I bought it from a friend about 4 years ago, never used it, It was in R33 Skyline turbo auto making 276rwhp, I would imagine the tune is still good, It has never been used since being removed so that's the tune that will be in it now, Good condition, Will post anywhere in Australia for 220 inc registered post Best to call/text as I am not on here all that often, Located in Brisbane, Pick up available, 0481109712
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Hi guys! I've got an itch to develop a plugin for my M35 2.5DET. It will use an Adaptronic 1280 ECU and a patch harness. The ecu selection will be because I'm pretty familiar with Adaptronic's now days, and also because the 1280 has an unlimited scope for programming auxillary outputs. This can be used to drive the auto ecu, dash stuff and anything else required. The 1280 is fairly special in it's function block approach to aux programming. Hardware wise, I will need a ECU (can be damaged I only need the plug/internal pins). Instead of plugging the stock ECU in, it will have the plug and then wiring off to 1280 instead. I will develop a loom and tune while retaining all the standard functions of the stock ECU. While I am there I will create a detailed pinout of the ECU as well as a value table for each pin (voltages, signal etc) Does anyone have a broken ECU laying around, or knowledge of where the plugs are available from? Can someone clarify if I can use any 3.5/2.5L ECU, they should have the pins just no internals if the pin is un-utilised for that model. Cheers, Jase -
For sale E-manage Ultimate piggyback ecu with universal harness/loom & instruction manual & usb cord picture for reference $500 delivered Located melbourne s.e O4O9 O22 O23 -
Hi all I am happy with the state of my tune and power delivery (263kwatw). Knock sits between 15-30 on an average day (say between 20-28 degree temp day) The highest i've seen knock was at about 42-43, but that was on a 36+ deg day and me giving it some (prob not the best idea i know) Using map tracer, when on full load (about 1.1 bar), I generally use L14 and L15 on the map. Exh temp sits around 600-700 degrees when on light load areas higher in the map where timing is around 35-40 deg. What do you guys think of the timing map?
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Hi, I've been playing around with tuning my car for a while on top of the base map that I have and it's been quite successful. Full throttle is perfect, but of course, the problem is part throttle. From what I have been told, the PFC d-jetro is incapable of ever getting good results for part throttle on a GTR due to the multiple throttle bodies plennum. I've been told that the problem can be solved, using TPS/INJ corrections and although this will never get perfect results, it will, at least, give drivable ones. Currently, at about 5000rpm+ the AFRs drop into the low 10s and then into 9, at which point, I just have to give up or risk flooding. My question is, what should the curve of the TPS graph look like? I'm guessing it's more complex than just a linear line but I wonder if there is any calculations I can do that will allow me to get an accurate 'estimation' Furthermore, how do ECUs like LINK/SYVECS allow a better tune? (like I appreciate they have more tables for fuelling, but what are these?)
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Hey guys & girls! Chasing a basemap or any map really for a r32/33 gtst and a wolf3d V4 to get my engine conversion running
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Re-Tune Required GTSS to 2530 Okay I am having a hard time trying to track down information for the particular circumstance I am in. I purchased a GTR several months ago that had the following applicable aftermarket parts: 1992 R32 GTR HKS Intake Pipes HKS Cat Back Exhaust HKS GT-SS Turbos HKS FCON V Pro 3.1 HKS EVC Boost Controller My turbos went out about a week ago and I have them currently being replaced right now at a shop that specializes in GTR maintenance and modification. I ended up not realizing what turbo's were on the car when I purchased it but I assumed they were either GTSS's or 2530s based on the response time and amount of boost they were able to handle. I ended up ordering a pair of 2530's for replacement. Now that I know the car had GTSS's in it before and I am switching to 2530's, do I need to get the ECU re-tuned? If so, what specific metric of the new turbo's would drive the need for a re-tune? My understanding is that these turbo's are very similar in response and power output and due to the limited availability of 4-wheel dynos and tuners who can work with HKS FCON products it is going to be close to another 2-3k to get the thing re-tuned and I am just looking to make sure it is necessary.
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R34 GTR fuel delivery issue Hi Guys, Got a bit of an issue with the fuel delivery on my car and was wondering if you can help me out... Just a quick background on the car: - Brand new 1000cc xspurt injectors with resistor pack removed - Brand new walbro 460lph e85 fuel pump with relay - Apexi powerfc - 2860-5 turbos - titanium turbo back exhaust - ARC intake (stock afms) - manual boost controller - set to 18psi I got my car tuned today only to find out the car was only able to make 290awkw on e85 @18psi safely. I was aiming for 350-380awkw however my tuner said the car struggled to go above 290 due to the car leaning out. Apparently he had to trick the ecu into thinking the injectors were only 550cc in order to get the car running right, where as when they were set to 1000 it would just run lean. He was reluctant to up the boost for obvious reasons. Im taking the car back to one of the boys who used to work at racepace to do a check on Monday (he was the one who installed all the parts for me), however this is something ill definitely be losing sleep over during the weekend. Just wondering what everyones opinion on the issue would be? Only thing i could think of was that the injectors dont like the ecu or the fuel filter in the engine bay is dirt.
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So after having promised to do this long ago and report back, I finally pulled my finger out of my bum about a month ago and decided to get the V36 tuned to see if there was anything to be gained from it. In short, no. I wasn't expecting much of a boost in power. That would be unrealistic of anyone to think so. Another 12kW was produced as a result of this tune, not that my arse-dyno can feel the difference, but at least scientifically, I can now say I have just over 200kW at the wheels. More to the point though, as you'll see in the attached graphs, it's pretty clear that these vehicles are pretty damn well tuned out of the factory. There's no improvement in response. Fuel economy, I've yet to determine as I've only been driving it out on weekends when I haven't needed to load the drums in the wagon instead. I'll give it about three full tanks to see how it averages out but I doubt I'll witness any major improvement to be honest. Until then, I'll save my final verdict. My preliminary verdict, in the meantime, is that there's no point in wasting your cash doing a dyno tune in its naturally aspirated configuration. Best to save it for the day you decide to whack a Stillen supercharger kit instead.
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Advice needed for RB25 mods and power levels.
Redknight posted a topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Advice needed for RB25 mods and power levels. Hi guys! Hope all is well. I just recently finished my project car. Its a R33 GTST with the following mods - Hypergear At43 Turbo - Refreshed top and bottom end - 550CC injectors - Walbro 460 fuel pump - Link g4 ECU - Greddy plenum - Upgraded throttle body - 4" - Blitz intercooler - Straight through 4inch exhaust - Turbosmart internal wastegate - HKS pod filter - Bigger cams Now I was wanting to ask, is it worth tuning with E85 with the current 550cc injectors? or would 98 be better suited? Also what is a reliable power level I should be aiming for with the following mods? thanks in advance! -
Tuners in Melbourne Hey guys I'm looking to get my GTT nistuned, and I've more or less settled on going to Chasers Motorworks in West Melbourne. They've been a great help and very informative with all my questions via emails. Just looking get a second opinion before I make my final decision, so if anyone has brought their car there please let me know your personal experiences! Cheers
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Hey all, I was wondering if anyone would be able to help me out, I have installed bigger injectors over my stock injectors because most of them were leaking in some form or another into my 93 r32 Gtr, this part was fairly easy. I have installed a nistune ecu into my car as well and intended on just using the 'resize injectors' operation, I did this and initially left all 3 adjust options ticked and then simply uploaded and burned to the eprom. The car then wouldnt start firing. I have only just began using nistune and the software and I was wondering if have done something wrong, if I am only changing the injector size do I tick those 'adjust' options or untick them? I did restore the ecu to the default rom that comes with nistune and it started firing, so my adjustment be wrong with the resizing operation. Anyone know how to fix this or the procedure to resize injectors for a r32 gtr?
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Hi all, Once again i've come to you in need of some help. My car ('93 R33 gtst) has recently started playing up, in the last month or so what's been happening is under load, full boost and high rpm, the engine light has been flashing. I've done alot of reading up on this and found that it is serious and requires attention. So this is me attending to it The mods on my car are as follows, Power FC Splitfire Blue jackets Boost T Currently running 12psi Highflowed turbo (OP6-hypergear ~480hp?) Greddy Front mount Bosch 040 Custom 3" straight pipe all the way through Standard injectors Standard afm What happens is when the car is warm (water temp ~82-84c) and I open throttle in either 1st or 3rd, from about 5000rpm the engine light will give me about 4 or 5 consecutive flashes. On the pfc display I get a peak knock reading of anywhere between 85 and 130. I don't have a wideband so i dont know what my afr is but I'm quite certain its leaning out badly. The guy i bought the car from said that it was tuned to 15psi (which i now think is bullshite) so running it at 12 psi shouldn't be causing it to knock so much. I'm in the process of getting a z32 and nismo 740's What i need to know is should I go ahead and keep driving it? Should I get it retuned? Should I wait until i have the afm and injectors then get it tuned? Just some advice would be nice as a mate of mine just blew his engine which had similar issues previously. Sorry for the long post... Any help is much appreciated Cheers Nev
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