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If the page links doesn't work, please manually enter the page number into URL for the corresponding page. This post was updated on: 01/06/2017: This thread is here providing information on our high flowed or built turbos as well as installation and trouble shooting. I'm happy to help or assist with every one who is currently using or looking to purchase our products or services. Brief Introduction about our selves: We are Australian based turbocharger manufacture in Melbourne, We worked with experienced and skilled local engineers to produce our goods and we've been doing that since Oct 2007. We constantly update our production turbochargers and will do our best deliver value to our customers. My name is Stao you can PM or contact 0413457185 if any assistance is required. For our High flowed RB25 Turbos, they comes in 21U or OP6 from factory. The 21U rear housings are smaller can capable of 430HP after high flowing, and larger OP6 are capable of doing around 460HP. PU high flow option is available for any one chasing for 450 to 500HP. They are built with a larger .82 internally gated turbine housing with Nissan OEM bolton pattern, braided oil feeding line and a high pressure actuator. Below is the Rb25det Hitach turbo high flow catalog with few dyno sheets. ATR43SS is a OEM replacement powered up turbocharger built for RB20/25DET R32, R33 and R34 GTST and Stegea models. They are T3x based with OEM dump pipe pattern. This series is specifically engineered for speed with smooth street driving ability. ATR43 is a OEM replacement powered up turbocharger built for RB20/25DET R32, R33 and R34 GTST and Stegea models. They are T3x based comes in .63 and .82 turbine housing with OEM dump pipe pattern. Power is rated from 450HP to 600HP depends on profile chosen. Initial release date: 24/08/2009: We also carry out turbocharger repairs, housing/CHRA modifications and high flow services for All Garrett, HKS, Mitsubishi, Toyota, KKK and Made in China turbochargers. Do feel free to PM / contact us for free assistance. Check (if you live in usa): Costco Weekly Ad, or Supercheap Auto Catalogue. Important Installation Notes for RB2xdet Highflowed and PU units: Sleeve bearing turbochargers requires higher volume of oil flow, are sold with 50cm long braided oil feeding line line that replaces the standard oil restrictor in side factory oil lines, 12mm benjo bolt, and a M12x1.25mm speed flow adaptor. The adaptor goes onto the engine block, benjo bolts goes into the bearing housing with hollow screw supplied. 3x copper washers are required during installation, Which we can supply them for $9 additional or can be purchased at local auto stores. Factory water lines: T3x bearing housing used are 3mms shorter then OEM Hitachi's bearing housings. Means water lines needs to be very slightly bent / forced backwards. Stock actuator: We normally modify the factory actuator's fitting bracket allowing it for a bit of preloading. The actuator bracket bolt wholes has to be filed 5mms towards the turbine housing if not received with the turbo or getting fitted by others. Once done it can be adjust and pre-load ensuring the waste gate is 100% shut. For PU high flowed and ATR43 units with larger Diameter turbine housings, the engine side water line needs to be slightly bent / altered around the housing area. Installing ATR43 turbocharger: ATR43 units generally runs on a round 3inches inlet and round 2 inches out let. It is highly recommended to run a metal intake pipe. How ever if you wish to bolton to stock gears you need: 1x 3inch straight hose, 1x 2.5inch metal sleeve, 1x 2inches 90 degrees hose, 1x 2inches metal sleeve. We can supply all those parts for $100 extra. Tip for a easy installation would be removing the actuator with bracket pre-installation, that would allow lot more room for your tools to reach the manifold studs, and install the actuator and bracket back on after the rest of the installation is complete. Make sure the actuator is preloaded by roughly 3mms. Since larger turbine housings are used, due to larger physical size most of them would be taller then stock pushing the exhaust back by roughly 15mms. Most cars would be running an aftermarket exhausts, depending on the angle of the pre-made dump / front pipe, check the clearance between that to the Air-con water drain pipe. If fouls, simply by pulling it back with zip ties and secure it on the chassis. ATR43Gx/SS2 DIY with photos ATR43SS1xx DIY with photos and video Easy Induction pipes: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261613-hypergear-hiflow-service-continued/page-78 http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261613-hypergear-hiflow-service-continued/page-89 Couple of extremely important factors: 1. After turbo installation do check pressure leaks ( I can make you a simple plug with a hose nipple for $50). Turbo will not perform if there are leaks. 2. Most of our turbos are installed with a 18psi high pressure actuator. by pass all boost controlling devices on test run, Boost gain from EBC based on stock actuator will cause massive boost creep. 3. Make sure the car's got a at least 3inch metal induction pipe with pod filter. Do not run those metal stuffed stock intake pipe. 4. An good exhaust system should restrict no more then 10KWs (My HKS silent power made 3KWs restrictions on a 316rwkws application). So Dyno tune with cat and exhaust dropped, (front pipe only). Do a touch up run with exhaust on after tuning, Get a better exhaust if you see a massive power drop with exhaust. If above procedures are followed you will definitely get the desired power goal. Also people with RB25det R33s. pay attention to those 20 years old valve springs and valves. Mine were all chewed out and worped possibly from valve float. That will act as boost leak, causing lose in power and response. Recommend stronger valve springs. Order, dispatch and mechanic services: All turbochargers are specifically built to suit customer's orders. We need in average 3 to 5 working days to have the order complete. We normally send with Australian post registered post with insurance, which generally takes 3 working days for delivery. We have 2x clients workshops in Melbourne which can carry out the installation service for $200, or onsite service for $250. For tuning, I personally use and recommend Status, and Dr.drift. ECU: For R33 RB25det I've personally used Adaptronic Plugin ECU and highly recommend it. The RRP price on this mode is $1499, We offer $400 discount of total if it is purchased with any of our turbochargers or high flow / rebuild service. Discount also apply for any customers whom is currently owning one of our built or high flowed turbochargers. Please check ECU features, results and discussion in page 113~116.
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Hi! I’m looking to replace my current turbo on my S1 RB25DET in order to make 600HP but maintain responsiveness. I’m looking at the HyperGear ATR43SS-3 in T3 .63 A/R or the Pulsar PSR3576 Gen2 T3 .82 A/R. I’m still learning how turbo sizes effect lag, response, and power band. I’m looking to see if anyone can share their experience with either of these turbos or can recommend another to meet my goal? These are my mods: • Running 91 octane most of the time and occasionally E85 on track days • top mount twin scroll manifold • 44mm external wastage • 1300CC fuel injectors • mishimoto intercooler M-line • 3in intercooler pipes • g-reddy intake manifold • link g4+ • NZWiring trigger kit • GTR R35 coilpacks • built bottom and top • 4” down-pipe and exhaust
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Hi, are there any differences between the MAFs on non turbo and turbo skylines (RB25DE VS RB25DET)??? I suspect the MAF is knackered on my non turbo R33. Also what's difference between the green and pink labelled ones? I've tried searching but can't find much info and a straight answer. I recently brought the car and it has some major performance issues. I know non turbos are slow but mine is ridicilous. Honestly, it feels like it's got 80bhp max and that a 1liter Toyota Yaris would easily beat it lol. I've also been in a stock 2liter RB20e R33 with an exhaust and even that was twice as fast... It was parked up for a while so I serviced the car, changed oil, oil/fuel filter and sparkplugs. It gained alot of power but not as good as it should be. It had a broken cone filter fitted so I replaced it with a stock airbox+ filter but the car has lost power again but saw that the MAF was broken and the top has been taped up to hold it together. I pulled some of the tape off earlier so suspect that may be the cause and since then, it idles abit rough sometimes aswell but a little tap to bring to revs up sorts it out. Also the car has massive 3.5" straight though exhaust which I'm sure it's making me lose a huge amount of power. Am I right in believing that the ideal size should be 2.25 or 2.5" or wouldn't the exhaust make much difference?
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Im in the process of swapping out turbos for a Hypergear ATR43SS-2. I bought a water/oil line kit from Mamba, for Garret GT30, according to Tao. All fittings fit properly, except for the water return line. It has a -AN fitting to hose barb. From what I see, I need to remove hardline and install hose barb fitting to rubber line behind the head. I located the rubber line but is there an easier way to gain access without taking valve cover or intake manifold off?
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What is this new sorcery¿ Facebook screen shot: https://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/turbochargers/g-series-g25-660
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Borg Warner EFR Series Turbo's V 2.0 Link to the first attempt. A wealth of knowledge in it. annnnd go!
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RB20/25 TURBO KIT Kkr 560 turbo intake pipe with filter stock manifold kkr dump pipe with v-band clamp front pipe chasing $750 ono pm or txt 0412913213 located wollongong
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Hey guys, I have a 1998 Honda EJ8 Civic Coupe (manual) up for swap for any manual turbo sil or skyline. Car is currently on around 260k all highway k only from the previous owner (female), bought it around 250k. The engine is very healthy and strong, run smooth. The car have logbook, all the receipts and paper work. Car color is silver, 16" alloy wheel with 90% tread. The interior is immaculate!, exterior the paint is excellent! All electronic is working, a/c and heater all work perfectly. Timming belt had been replaced at around 215k. Car have been serviced regularly by previous owner and now me, I just serviced it at around 500km ago with Castrol Edge 5w-30. Car have 11 months of rego. Very well looked after, never been in any accident. Always use BP Ultimate. The only reason I let this baby go is I want a turbo car. Good: Ported & Polished head for more little bit more power and torgue, good for daily (good P&P job). Injen CAI Megan Racing header 4-2-1 (few week old) for low and mid range torgue, again good for daily driven. Bad: Sump gasket started to leak due to aged, just minor leak, nothing major (easy fix). Planned to fix it myself, but have no time. Few small dents and 2 minor scratches from stupid people at the car park very hard to notice. Anyone want a good looking daily driven car, this is the car for you, you will not be disappointed. If you are interested, please let me know via pm or text 0403201566. Here is a few pics:
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Hey guys im selling my Garrett 707160-5005 turbos. They are genuine Garrett -5 turbos. They are currently fitted with HKS stainless split dump pipes. They can be included with the turbos or sold separetely. I have an Apexi GT Spec front pipe also for sale. SARD pod filter kit. Match ported factory exhaust manifolds. Polished factory turbo oil and coolant lines plus necessary fittings. Fresh sand blasted turbo inlet pipe work. Factory air flow meters. Chrome plated twin turbo outlet pipework. Genuine Nissan O2 sensors x2 All these parts are off my ground up rebuilt R32 GTR as seen in the sticky section of General Maintainance. Everything is immaculate and the buyers will not be disappointed. The parts are currently still on the engine but will be removed at time of sale. The reason for sale is as i mentioned in my rebuild thread, i plan to go to a single turbo setup. All parts have only done 8500kms of which 95% of the time the turbos were only making 14psi. I only recently retuned the car for 20psi. Prices are as follows for individual prices. There is potential for packages. All prices are negotiable. -5 Garretts $1800 HKS extension kit (split stainless dumps) $400 Apexi GT Spec front pipe $450 Match ported factory exhaust manifolds $100 Polished turbo lines and fittings $100 Turbo inlet pipes $200 SARD pod filter kit $250 Factory airflow meters $150 Chrome plated twin turbo outlet pipwork $250 Genuine Nissan 02 sensors $100 - Paid over $300! Regards, Deren 0402829091
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Hey guys Have for sale a T3 turbo (china) good for around 300 and and a bit more HP (not big and laggy .63 rear housing). Comes with oil drain house and lines into a RB block to fit it. RB20/25 Highmount manifold (never used) Turbosmart 38mm external gate with 14PSI spring Selling it because it came from a engine i bought but am using all my own stuff instead of this as i already had the bits i need. Price: $350 Location: Gold Coast QLD Ph: 0433 200 198
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The perfect example of a reliable and well-maintained Australian delivered S15. The last model built by Nissan Australia in July 2002. Your chance to own one of the last of the last. I am the 3rd owner after originally being purchased by a Qantas employee under a corporate fleet program. I have used the vehicle as a weekend car. The vehicle is a 6-speed manual with 129,800kms and registration until 13th December 2012. The vehicle has been serviced every 5,000kms using top-shelf oil from Royal Purple engine, gear and differential oils. The performance of the SR20DET engine has been improved using quality aftermarket parts and all of which have been installed professionally to maintain a standard appearance; • Front Mount Intercooler (Greddy) • 3" Turbo-Back Exhaust with twin tip muffler. Very Stealthy.(Custom) • Cold Air Intake + Pod Filter (Apexi) • Lowered Sports Suspension (King) • High flow fuel pump (Walbro) • Coil Packs (Splitfire) The vehicle also comes with a few interior extras including; • Genuine GT Spec Leather Seats • Kenwood Head Unit for CD/MP3 Playback, Auxillary In + Front Usb Port • Kenwood 6x9" Rear Speakers & Clarion 5" Front Splits • 3-Point Alarm with Immobiliser approved against Australian standards The vehicle has also received the following brand new parts; • Exedy Sports Organic Clutch w/ Single Mass flywheel • 2 brand new tyres • RDA rear brake rotors + brake pads I am only selling this vehicle as looking to invest in the property market. Please feel free to contact me with any questions or for an inspection. Price $16,000 ONO Please contact Brian on 04 two two 789 078.
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Sup guys I just recently got my first skyline (R34 gtr coupe) all stock atm , non turbo . I'm after a decent turbo kit at a reasonable price. Anyone know where to order ?? New or used
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Sup guys I just recently got my first skyline (R34 gtr coupe) all stock atm , non turbo . I'm after a decent turbo kit at a reasonable price. Anyone know where to order ?? New or used
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Hi all, First post here, have been a skyline owner for some time. I'm driving a bog stock R33 GTST S1 (1994) with approx 170xxx km's on the clock. During some routine maintenance (I'm a mechanic by trade) I've discovered oil in my intake, from which I deduce my turbo is on the way out. I doubt it has been off the car since production, so it's no real surprise it's on the way out. Anyway, I have no real desire to chase big power out of the car (it's my daily driver and don't want to send my fuel costs through the roof) so I'm simply thinking of replacing the turbo with another stock turbo after getting it rebuilt. However, if I can, I'll stick another turbo onto the stock manifold and just keep the stock wastegate and run standard boost through it so I don't have to modify the stock computer and injectors. So! The question I'm asking is, can anyone put me onto a brand/make of turbo that I can simply bolt onto the existing manifold/dump pipe? Otherwise, I'll just chase down another stock turbo and rebuild it. Thanks guys. (p.s, if there is another thread with this information, put me in that direction and I'll delete this one)
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new to this so bare with me. Just fitted a hiflowed rb25 turbo on my near stock rb20det on my r32 yesterday with minor mods fmic bov pod 3inc, and thought it would be a good upgrade considering there seem to be rather popular but im not seeing full boost till about 4800 5000 rpm is that normal? im getting a new ecu/nistune and walbro pump fitted next week. car has no low end power just dies in the ass if i drop the revs to anything out of boost. would like to know what you guys out there with hiflowed rb25 turbos are seeing full boost at? any comments or advice tips tricks would be most appreciated cheers.
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Been hunting for an R33 for a while and sick of trolling the threads and posting in topics and never getting replies. Turbo 1996+ and/or dual airbags ABS Manual 2 door No rust RWC Basically looking for as cheap as possible and meeting that criteria. Don't mind if it's a bit chipped and dented or whatever. Granted if a car is in good condition or has some power mods i'm willing to up the budget. For R33 I Just missed out on one that was $5,000 and I turned down on that was $8,500 so there's a rough floor and ceiling. Just missed out on an R34 for $8,000 turned down one for $12,000 so there is the second price range. Don't be slow, I need a car ASAP for work so i'll take the first good deal that comes my way. [email protected] - 0400 346 056
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Hey all, I have for sale my 1989 R32 GTR. Had this car for about a year now but having to move so unfortunately need to sell it. Details: 1989 R32 Nissan Skyline GTR Chassis has around 111,xxx km on it but the engine has only 73,xxx km on it. The oil pump went in the old engine which seized so had it replaced with a new one a couple months ago. Lots of paperwork with the car and receipts for pretty much everything that I have bought. Car has only done about 20km since I put most of the mods on. So anthing that says 'new' means new. Chassis: Tein Super street coilovers 17x9.5 Alloys (unsure on make) with near new tyres Brand new RDA drilled and grooved discs all round with Brand new TRW brake pads Engine: Standard internals HKS 2350 turbos Mine’s AFM HKS Hard pipe Full 3.5” Custom straight-through exhaust from downpipe back New Autobahn88 300x600x100 FMIC with hard piping kit New 13 Row oil cooler with braided hoses New Oil filter relocation kit New HKS oil filter 660cc Mine’s injectors Brand new Bosch 040 In-tank fuel pump Mine’s dump valves Full set of brand new Bosch drive belts Full oil change done when replaced engine using Castrol EDGE. Car has done maybe 20km since then. All hoses replace with Silicon hoses including top and bottom radiator. Full coolant flush and replace done at same time as oil. Drivetrain: Brand New NPC 5 Button Ceramic Heavy duty clutch with lightened flywheel to suit and brand new release bearing, again, it has only done about 20km since fitting it. All diff’s and gearbox oil replaced when changing engine using Redline shockproof Electronics: HKS turbo timer Genuine Mine’s ECU tuned for engine Blitz boost controller GRID electronic HICAS controller. Allowing you to electronically lock-out the HICAS system. Alpine CD/MP3 player with removable face and remote control Black Widow Alarm system. (not sure on exact model but will try and find out.) includes central locking. Brand new battery also installed. Interior: Blitz boost gauge Recarco Bucket seat on driver side, Bit of a tear/hole on the bolster (pics below) R33 GTR standard seat on passenger side Standard R32 GTR carpets Nardi Steering wheel Exterior: Original gunmetal grey paint, could do with a polish but I will be getting it cleaned and detailed before the sale. Some small amounts of surface rust (see pics below) N1 Bonnet lip N1 front bumper lip. Pretty much standard really. Price for all of this: $17,000 but is very negotiable Car is located in Townsville, QLD. Happy to ship if buyer wants to organize and pay for everything. I will get pics up as soon as I get the thing cleaned. Thanks for looking. Any questions please ask... Either text me on 0406188865 or message me on here.
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For sale, front and rear housings from a gt3076 rear is 5 bolt .63 doesnt fit my 3076 came off a 700177-11 the polished front cover i got fitted so selling my original front housing $200 each $350 the pair also have used stainless top mount t3 rb25 manifold, heat wrapped $200o.n.o (going custom steampipe) located Adelaide (northern suburbs)
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I have had the car for 9 years, baught it with 74,000 on the clock and it is sitting on 157,000 now. It has been well taken care of and serviced regularly without any major faults or problems. The stereo install has been done to maintain a workable boot. Aftermarket: 17" Nizmo rims Whiteline sports pack - Bilstein shocks, shortened springs, camber adjustment etc. Front strut brace Pod air intake Hybrid style FMIC Racing clutch Cs Short Shifter - with Momo gear stick 2.5" exhaust all the way through with big muffler. BOV 2 way boost controller (controlled from inside the car) SAFC 2 CD player head unit Kenwood 7x10s on the parcel shelf powered by a 4x350 watt Kenwood amp 400W Kicker mono block amp in the boot powering 2x 12" Pioneer 400w free air subs (custom boot install with plenty of space left) and bass control in on the dash Sunroof Factory floor mats I have just had the front bar re-sprayed and fitted and the amp for the subbies needs a service. The car is registered until April 2013. There is a little ding in the drivers rear quarter (hardly noticable) and some minor scratches on the passenger door and rear quarter - see pics. The tyres have gone about 2,000km so have heaps of meat on them and the breaks have about 3,000. Its on Car Sales for $8,000. Happy to talk on price fwith SAU Members.
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Hey ive brought a apexi turbo time and and have wired it in works great but the timer has the function of showing a/f readings that are taken from the ecu and i have wired the 2 wires in to the ecu one in to the 02 senser and one to the ground and i can still not get the timer to work just flashes it works on all the othr ways but wont work the auto timer where it works out how long the car should count down for its self and the a/f or rich and lean was wondring if any one has put one in and has had the same problems??
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Hey all, I have a fair amount of R32 GTR gear in my house that I no longer need so want to try and get rid of it all. All prices are just a rough estimate and I am negotiable on all of them so make me sensible offer and I will probably say yes. I don’t mind posting the smaller stuff (at the buyers expense) but some of the bigger/heavier items I would rather have picked up. Need this stuff gone a.s.a.p. so will be very negotiable on prices. Location: Townsville, 4810 Standard R32 GTR AFM good condition $40 the pair Cam covers polished, in average condition $50 Exhaust Downpipe, unknown make or age. Slightly damaged $75 RB26 standard camshafts $100 Standard R32 GTR ECU. $100 Standard RB26 cam gears $40 Apexi Power FC with hand controller. Bought but never fitted. $850 Standard RB26 coil packs $40 Brand new in box Gates racing timing belt to suit RB26 $100 OEM 3D Carbon Fibre Vinyl Wrap 1520mm x 5000mm $50 RB26 Fuel rail $30 Standard R32 GTR BOV's and pipe $50 RB26 'Twin Turbo' pipe $50 I can get pics on request. If I find anything else I will add it on. Can get hold of me on 0406188865 or send me a message on here. Thanks
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1989 R32 4 Door Turbo Manual Price $7000 190xxxkm on clock 40xxx less on motor great clutch-see below new Nissan paint body kit lots more see below... WANT QUICK SALE the car has new nissan paint(end of Dec 11) with vertex rear bar and skirts with a GT-R front bar all fibre glass. Big front mount intercooler(still have stock one) Car has had new leather boots for the gear stick and handbrake, new momo drift style steering wheel in suede-less than 4mths old(still have stock one), just replaced all the A/C vents, tail lights 93mod and installed new 60mm boost gauge in vent next to steering wheel. Car has a near new clutch from Xtreme- solid button ceramic clutch -motor sport, Part number CNI24101MS (11,000km old with easy life- installed @ 180,000km on clock). have put in kei office coilovers in the rear(stiff and height adjustable) with replaced struts and heavy duty springs in the front for a nicer ride. wheels not incl. will come with black 17x8 plus 2 full set of stock with good tyres want it gone!!! text 0401 648 48seven thanks, Tyler
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For sale I have a RD28 Nissan Diesel block for all of the guys wanting to build a high hp RB26. These blocks are good for applications over 1000hp and people looking to build a great stroker motor. The main advantages of running the RD28 block is that it has extra thickness in the oil galleries and water jackets are heavier gauge than the RB26 especially when boring out the block for stroker applications. There blocks have been known to be on engines making 800+hp on one bar of boost. Was going to use this block in my GTR but have another project going into it. Comes as a short motor with sump pistons and crank Looking for 500ono