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Hi! I’m looking to replace my current turbo on my S1 RB25DET in order to make 600HP but maintain responsiveness. I’m looking at the HyperGear ATR43SS-3 in T3 .63 A/R or the Pulsar PSR3576 Gen2 T3 .82 A/R. I’m still learning how turbo sizes effect lag, response, and power band. I’m looking to see if anyone can share their experience with either of these turbos or can recommend another to meet my goal? These are my mods: • Running 91 octane most of the time and occasionally E85 on track days • top mount twin scroll manifold • 44mm external wastage • 1300CC fuel injectors • mishimoto intercooler M-line • 3in intercooler pipes • g-reddy intake manifold • link g4+ • NZWiring trigger kit • GTR R35 coilpacks • built bottom and top • 4” down-pipe and exhaust

If the page links doesn't work, please manually enter the page number into URL for the corresponding page. This post was updated on: 01/06/2017: This thread is here providing information on our high flowed or built turbos as well as installation and trouble shooting. I'm happy to help or assist with every one who is currently using or looking to purchase our products or services. Brief Introduction about our selves: We are Australian based turbocharger manufacture in Melbourne, We worked with experienced and skilled local engineers to produce our goods and we've been doing that since Oct 2007. We constantly update our production turbochargers and will do our best deliver value to our customers. My name is Stao you can PM or contact 0413457185 if any assistance is required. For our High flowed RB25 Turbos, they comes in 21U or OP6 from factory. The 21U rear housings are smaller can capable of 430HP after high flowing, and larger OP6 are capable of doing around 460HP. PU high flow option is available for any one chasing for 450 to 500HP. They are built with a larger .82 internally gated turbine housing with Nissan OEM bolton pattern, braided oil feeding line and a high pressure actuator. Below is the Rb25det Hitach turbo high flow catalog with few dyno sheets. ATR43SS is a OEM replacement powered up turbocharger built for RB20/25DET R32, R33 and R34 GTST and Stegea models. They are T3x based with OEM dump pipe pattern. This series is specifically engineered for speed with smooth street driving ability. ATR43 is a OEM replacement powered up turbocharger built for RB20/25DET R32, R33 and R34 GTST and Stegea models. They are T3x based comes in .63 and .82 turbine housing with OEM dump pipe pattern. Power is rated from 450HP to 600HP depends on profile chosen. Initial release date: 24/08/2009: We also carry out turbocharger repairs, housing/CHRA modifications and high flow services for All Garrett, HKS, Mitsubishi, Toyota, KKK and Made in China turbochargers. Do feel free to PM / contact us for free assistance. Check (if you live in usa): Costco Weekly Ad, or Supercheap Auto Catalogue. Important Installation Notes for RB2xdet Highflowed and PU units: Sleeve bearing turbochargers requires higher volume of oil flow, are sold with 50cm long braided oil feeding line line that replaces the standard oil restrictor in side factory oil lines, 12mm benjo bolt, and a M12x1.25mm speed flow adaptor. The adaptor goes onto the engine block, benjo bolts goes into the bearing housing with hollow screw supplied. 3x copper washers are required during installation, Which we can supply them for $9 additional or can be purchased at local auto stores. Factory water lines: T3x bearing housing used are 3mms shorter then OEM Hitachi's bearing housings. Means water lines needs to be very slightly bent / forced backwards. Stock actuator: We normally modify the factory actuator's fitting bracket allowing it for a bit of preloading. The actuator bracket bolt wholes has to be filed 5mms towards the turbine housing if not received with the turbo or getting fitted by others. Once done it can be adjust and pre-load ensuring the waste gate is 100% shut. For PU high flowed and ATR43 units with larger Diameter turbine housings, the engine side water line needs to be slightly bent / altered around the housing area. Installing ATR43 turbocharger: ATR43 units generally runs on a round 3inches inlet and round 2 inches out let. It is highly recommended to run a metal intake pipe. How ever if you wish to bolton to stock gears you need: 1x 3inch straight hose, 1x 2.5inch metal sleeve, 1x 2inches 90 degrees hose, 1x 2inches metal sleeve. We can supply all those parts for $100 extra. Tip for a easy installation would be removing the actuator with bracket pre-installation, that would allow lot more room for your tools to reach the manifold studs, and install the actuator and bracket back on after the rest of the installation is complete. Make sure the actuator is preloaded by roughly 3mms. Since larger turbine housings are used, due to larger physical size most of them would be taller then stock pushing the exhaust back by roughly 15mms. Most cars would be running an aftermarket exhausts, depending on the angle of the pre-made dump / front pipe, check the clearance between that to the Air-con water drain pipe. If fouls, simply by pulling it back with zip ties and secure it on the chassis. ATR43Gx/SS2 DIY with photos ATR43SS1xx DIY with photos and video Easy Induction pipes: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261613-hypergear-hiflow-service-continued/page-78 http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261613-hypergear-hiflow-service-continued/page-89 Couple of extremely important factors: 1. After turbo installation do check pressure leaks ( I can make you a simple plug with a hose nipple for $50). Turbo will not perform if there are leaks. 2. Most of our turbos are installed with a 18psi high pressure actuator. by pass all boost controlling devices on test run, Boost gain from EBC based on stock actuator will cause massive boost creep. 3. Make sure the car's got a at least 3inch metal induction pipe with pod filter. Do not run those metal stuffed stock intake pipe. 4. An good exhaust system should restrict no more then 10KWs (My HKS silent power made 3KWs restrictions on a 316rwkws application). So Dyno tune with cat and exhaust dropped, (front pipe only). Do a touch up run with exhaust on after tuning, Get a better exhaust if you see a massive power drop with exhaust. If above procedures are followed you will definitely get the desired power goal. Also people with RB25det R33s. pay attention to those 20 years old valve springs and valves. Mine were all chewed out and worped possibly from valve float. That will act as boost leak, causing lose in power and response. Recommend stronger valve springs. Order, dispatch and mechanic services: All turbochargers are specifically built to suit customer's orders. We need in average 3 to 5 working days to have the order complete. We normally send with Australian post registered post with insurance, which generally takes 3 working days for delivery. We have 2x clients workshops in Melbourne which can carry out the installation service for $200, or onsite service for $250. For tuning, I personally use and recommend Status, and Dr.drift. ECU: For R33 RB25det I've personally used Adaptronic Plugin ECU and highly recommend it. The RRP price on this mode is $1499, We offer $400 discount of total if it is purchased with any of our turbochargers or high flow / rebuild service. Discount also apply for any customers whom is currently owning one of our built or high flowed turbochargers. Please check ECU features, results and discussion in page 113~116.

Hi, are there any differences between the MAFs on non turbo and turbo skylines (RB25DE VS RB25DET)??? I suspect the MAF is knackered on my non turbo R33. Also what's difference between the green and pink labelled ones? I've tried searching but can't find much info and a straight answer. I recently brought the car and it has some major performance issues. I know non turbos are slow but mine is ridicilous. Honestly, it feels like it's got 80bhp max and that a 1liter Toyota Yaris would easily beat it lol. I've also been in a stock 2liter RB20e R33 with an exhaust and even that was twice as fast... It was parked up for a while so I serviced the car, changed oil, oil/fuel filter and sparkplugs. It gained alot of power but not as good as it should be. It had a broken cone filter fitted so I replaced it with a stock airbox+ filter but the car has lost power again but saw that the MAF was broken and the top has been taped up to hold it together. I pulled some of the tape off earlier so suspect that may be the cause and since then, it idles abit rough sometimes aswell but a little tap to bring to revs up sorts it out. Also the car has massive 3.5" straight though exhaust which I'm sure it's making me lose a huge amount of power. Am I right in believing that the ideal size should be 2.25 or 2.5" or wouldn't the exhaust make much difference?

Im in the process of swapping out turbos for a Hypergear ATR43SS-2. I bought a water/oil line kit from Mamba, for Garret GT30, according to Tao. All fittings fit properly, except for the water return line. It has a -AN fitting to hose barb. From what I see, I need to remove hardline and install hose barb fitting to rubber line behind the head. I located the rubber line but is there an easier way to gain access without taking valve cover or intake manifold off?

What is this new sorcery¿ Facebook screen shot: https://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/turbochargers/g-series-g25-660

Borg Warner EFR Series Turbo's V 2.0 Link to the first attempt. A wealth of knowledge in it. annnnd go!

Hi I'm having trouble with my bov. Got it all recirculated but when I put the vacuum line on the bov I get no boost. The previous owner had blocked the bov and had the vacuum line running back to the other lines. Could it be the bov has a big leak? Sorry still new to turbo cars. It's a r33 with a rb25det. Cheers

Hey all, Picked up a manual 370gt not long ago. Have purchased BC BR coilovers and will be doing new bushings all round and front & rear sway bars shortly. My car is just shy of 200k kms but she still pulls hard and feels very tight all round. I was hoping to get your opinions on what FI route I should take. Option 1: Replace gallery gaskets and mid mount single turbo my existing VQ37. Using SOHO motorsports' single turbo dyno as a guide, I'd be looking at approx 600WHP and 600nm wheel at 5k RPM. Ride this motor out till it dies then put in a new VQ when the day comes. Option 2: Sell my VQ and do a VR30DDTT swap. I've been extensively researching this swap and know of 3 370z swaps, two 350zs and one 350gt (US so G35). I can't see why a 370gt should be too different to a 370z. The OEM motor mounts can be retained, I'll need a z1 adapter plate for my JK41A transmission, q60 ecu, harness, engine room harness, CANBUS module, custom intakes, lower downpipes, heat exchanger and tune. This will net me less HP - approx 450whp but more torque at lower RPMs for more RPMs - 675nm wheel at 2.5k to 4.5k. Putting aside sourcing parts, labour and installation timeframes, what would be your preference for a daily driver/occasional track visit car? Boosted VQ for 600WHP with a lower, shorter, later torque curve or a VR30 with 150 less HP but significantly better torque delivery? Any shop recommendations in Sydney, Wollongong, Newcastle or Canberra? Would love to hear your thoughts Al

Hey guys first time poster here and looking for some help, I'm about to list every part I have accumulated over the last 1 year in preparation for my r34 GTT manual going in to get built in the next coming weeks Firstly just like most, my initial plan changed midway and now I'm going slightly bigger turbo I have purchased a garrett g30-900 1.01 A/R now previously I had a 3076 (aeroflow turbo) but sold it and decided to go garret. With previous turbo I had purchased a 45mm turbosmart hypergate (14 PSI) However now that I have a garrett g30-900 I was wondering is my 45mm turbosmart too small for my set up? I'm aiming for 500kw on high boost (but will have a low boost setting of about 300kw) Should I look into getting the 50mm progate or is 45mm OK? I do want some response My current list of parts are: ARP head studs arp main studs Nitto head gasket 6 boost manifold Turbosmart wastgate 45mm Fuel regulator turbosmart fpr6 Fuel rail plazmaman Injectors 1650cc Bosch Turbo garret g30-900 Plazmaman intercooler Plazmaman full billet intake manifold haltech 2500 Haltech ic7 Radiator PWR ATP Oil catch can Twin plate clutch exedy organic Kelford 264 cams Kelford spring & retainers Supetech valve set Nitto I beam rods Nitto pistons 86.5 Nitto oil pump and crank collar HKS Cam gears Prp trigger kit ati Harmonic damper Astra electric power steering 2x 525 Fuel pump wallbro and Surge tank prp ls1 rb25 alternator kit R35 coil packs Aeroflow sump Hi-Flow pick up for sump Engine mounts tuff Radiator overflow bottle Nitto head drain Battery relocation kit CAN keypad 1.1mm restrictors Gktech clutch fan I haven't purchased ACL bearings yet I'll just get the builder.to organise thos according to clearance Block head and crank will all be machine bore honed etc...

Hi there I have a rb20det, have just brought an srp t3t4 ar.50 turbo, externally gated as an upgrade for the stock one, just wondering if It will bolt straight on no problems, thanks team

Hey all. I know there is a plethora of information about Hypergear turbos on these threads, with Tao providing a heap of Dyno results. I was looking at Hypergear's ATR45-SAT (Special application turbocharger) as it will directly bolt on to my existing setup, with some basic fabrication/relocation of some intake piping, and will suffice for my 300-350rwkw power figure I am after with my current setup for street use. Only thing is he doesnt provide any specs from what I can see on the size of the housings, or any sizings of inlets/outlets, which I thought would be basic information you would provide there for your customers to see when deciding to choose your product, like other turbo sellers do. Has anyone got some of their own feedback and dyno results on that specific turbo? Was also looking at Kinugawa turbos that were a direct bolt on, and had heard good things about them, I dont think theyre as popular as they used to be, but has anyone had one recently theyve purchased and used? Any other recommendations with reasoning as to why they went with it?

For sale: Nissan Skyline R34 GTT Sedan 318 rwkw, silver, in Victoria Key points: Last of the original R chassis with the venerable RB25DET, in the final & best Neo guise Lots of work done: tyres, suspension, steering, drivetrain, mechanical diff, cooling, turbo, servicing, preventative maintenance etc. etc. Beautiful RB bark at 20 psi and the sweet smell of ethanol A registered car with 4 doors, child seat mounting points, big boot, sleeper look for no unnecessary attention No accident history, always garaged under my ownership, regularly serviced Recent updates: New price New photos New steering rack No RWC selling as is Inspections welcome Price $14,800 Please PM here or call/email via the full ad: http://bit.ly/4doorad – Photos: http://bit.ly/4doorpics Note: This is a replacement thread for the previous one: https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/471783-fs-well-balanced-r34-gtt-sedan-for-street-and-track-vic/?do=findComment&comment=7885711

So recently i saw some ads advertising P plate legal "ADM S15 TURBOS" running 320hp+ on their Sr20DETs, i am wondering how is that even p plate legal? Can someone explain how? i know "ADM" models came with different turbos which made them a bit slower allowing for them to be p plate legal, but do you need an exemption? can you just hop into a S15 and just drive off? what are the process of "LEGALLY" allowing a p plater to drive the s15. is this for NSW only? what are the state of ADM s15 in QLD? Thanks, (am not looking for any hate, i was just wondering how these p platers are driving these cars).

Hi all, There have been all kinds of conversations on and off SAU about single turbo options for RBs (and other engines really) in the current state of the game and while I've not seen any evidence of compressor maps being inaccurate, different manufacturers use different ways to normalise and present the numbers, different cut off points, and different ways of estimating hp from compressor flow which can result in people expecting too much or too little from their turbos. I've decided to semi-roughly translate it all into an even measure and shove what I consider "the most relevant" turbos for most people who would be talking about turbo choices in here, and split the compressor flow potential they have at 20psi, 25psi and 30psi - using "65% compressor efficiency" as a cut off. Those are fairly familiar and reasonable reference points, and as you exceed 65% I view it that it's where the intercooler and hotside are starting to have to carry disproportionately more of the load to keep things happier. This is the "you're pushing it" zone, imho - even if it's not really maxing the turbo out. It seems to be a reasonable way of gauging them on a similar scale if you're going to being matching the turbos for real world performance. It may not be PERFECT but I think it gives enough of an idea of how they may compare, I'm pretty sure all these turbos have hot side options which are pretty close to supporting the exhaust flow needed these days - give or take, but some of the numbers here may explain a few interesting things seen.. Hope it's vaguely interesting reading Turbo 20psi 25psi 30psi GTX3071R 50 52 53 GTX3071R Gen2 51 52 53 EFR7670 53 56 57 S257SX-E 54 57 60 G25 660 55 60 59 GTX3076R 59 61 62 Gen2 GTX3076R 59 61 62 GTW3476R 60 64 67 EFR8374 65 68 69 GTX3582R 70 72 74 Gen2 GTX3582R 70 75 77 EFR9180 74 79 84 GTX3584RS 75 80 84

Hi, I'm after a quality alternator to bolt onto my turbo R33. Needs to be direct factory replacement please. Located Ballarat, Victoria Thanks, Tim