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Does anyone know where I can buy new or used parts either in Australia or overseas? My stereo has had it, which means my fan controls can't be used and I don't really want to replace the whole fascia and get a new stereo. Also my passenger side window only rolls up and down intermittently and I would like to have that fixed too. -
Hi everyone, This is a bit of a stretch but hoping someone has a photo or diagram of wire colors for 1 of the wire harnesses going into the IPDM module for 2001 V35 VQ30DD. I was investigating an issue with one of the wires and should have taken better photos before taking it to bits and am now worried ive got a wire crossed as ive now got a check engine light and car appears to be in limp mode. As you can see from the photo below, I can see where most of the cables terminate into but there are a couple on the opposite side I cant see properly. Thanks in advance! -
So oddly enough Facebook has proven more difficult to sell things to my surprise. But anyway, got a few things I don't need. Have looked all over the net trying to figure out what to sell things for so prices are referenced off what I can find these things are selling/sold for now, and supply or lack there of. Appreciate any feedback. Negotiable with good reason. Located Coffs Harbour NSW, buyer sorts own shipping. Haven't cleaned anything up yet so take the looks of it with a grain of salt $400 -Black Seat set (drivers side has minor damage, everything else is good, motors tested and work) Can include rear matching trim panels as well. $500 -English Conversion for the NAV screen via the DVD ROM $650 (those Chinese Metra ones seem to go for $800 new as a bare fascia) -Genuine Silver JDM Fascia, comes with vents, NAV screen and buttons (no AC controls) $800 for the lot (The HFC alone RRP $710 w/ shipping from the states) *Removing other the more difficult header this weekend* -Unknown brand Stainless steel headers (tight fit but sound really good) Kinetix HFC + Custom Stainless Steel Y-pipe to 3" exit (both have been modified for more clearance and pair together due to wrongly angled flange joins, HFC could be remodfied to pair with other exhaust parts) Comes with janky Y back custom straight pipe with muffler tip lol
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Up for sale is a used set of ceramic coated Tomei Expreme V2 Headers (Part number 415001) I bought these second-hand a few years ago. Had the usual surface rust on the flanges and runner colour change. Recently, I've had these sandblasted and ceramic coated by Paul at Thermal Edge Coating Brendale. (Sidenote, highly recommend Paul, super nice guy and his work is pretty good). These have NOT been installed. Headers have been ceramic coated in Tech Line Black Satin (BHK) which is rated up to 1093°C. More info can be found from the data sheet here: https://techlinecoatings.com/wp-content/uploads/BHK-Data-Sheet.pdf Comes with the following: 2x Header to Cat/Test Pipe gaskets (OEM gaskets) 1x Heat Shield Plate (this is used to cover part of the fuel line) 1x Stick on heat resistant piece (you cut this and this goes on top of the provided heat shield) 1x Tomei smooth paste I sourced this with a bunch of stuff from Tomei Japan, not Tomei USA. You can Google why Tomei JP and USA are no longer affiliated with each other anymore. You can read Tomei JP's statement here: https://www.tomei-p.co.jp/tomei-brand/ It seems at some stage, I've apparently scratched a section. When I picked them up, they were fine. I did remove them from the wrapping beforehand and apparently at some stage, when placing these down, I may have bumped into something. It doesn't look like uncured cracking. Doesn't affect the performance but I've added a picture of it. Don't have time to take it back to have it looked at. These are suited for the DE. They will work with the VQ35HR/VQ37VHR however you will need to move some of the manifold studs around. I have included a picture as a reference. For the VQ37VHR, at some stage Nissan discontinued pre-drilled locations to be able to move studs around. Z1 Motorsports advises from 09/10 onwards it may have changed. However, being the U.S, that could also mean Oct of '09 🤷♂️. I have read of Z34 owners running these no problems but something to lookout for. You will also need to use DE Cats/Test Pipes etc to fit. The OEM HR/VHR headers are decent and are a lot better then the trash DE manifold. However some would like to upgrade from the crude collector (for emissions IIRC) and this maybe the ticket for them 😄 Asking price is $1600 ONO pickup Wishart, Brisbane or plus postage (buyer pays). Open to offers 🙂 I appreciate some may not want to pay extra for express but insurance and signature on delivery is non-negotiable (i.e I won't send these without these options). #VQ35DE# VQ35HR #VQ37VHR #Z33 #Z34 #V35 #V36 #Tomei #JDM -
Up for sale is a brand new set of ISR Long Tube Headers, part number IS-SSHD-VQ35 for a 350Z/370Z/V36/V35 NISSAN SKYLINE Comes with the o2 harness extensions (early Gen Z33/V35 only, see the CZP link). More info can be found here: https://conceptzperformance.com/isr-performance-hgc-long-tube-headers-vq35de-vq35hr-vq37vhr-nissan-350z-370z-infiniti-g35-g37-is-sshd-vq35_p_32339.php https://www.isrperformance.com/isr-performance-hgc-long-tube-headers-vq35de-hr-350z-g35-370z/ This right now shipped to Brisbane through CZP using PayPal is $1106 USD or $1725 AUD. Price I'm selling for is $1600 ONO cash on pick up, Eight Mile Plains 😃 #VQ35DE #VQ37VHR #VQ35HR #370Z #350Z #V35 #V36 #Z34 #Z33 #Nissan #Skyline #JDM
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Hi All, I discovered last night my misfire was due to a failed coil pack. I've bought a replacement off of FleaBay but want to replace the full set. What's the best Brand/set? OEM or aftermarket?
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Hey guys, first time posting in the forum. Firstly, I have a v35 sedan 300gt limited with a vq30dd motor. The car runs super rich, suffers a misfire and struggles to start when hot, as well as going into limp mode. I have changed plugs, coils, maf, cam and crank sensors, replaced pcv and all vac lines, used upper cylinder head cleaner (I know the design get dirty as hell), scrubbed all carbon deposits and resealed all gaskets, i have a spare ecu. All this and I still can't get it to run nicely. Was wondering if anyone else has some ideas for me to get it to run and if not, wondering what the compatibility of the vq30dd loom is to a 35de? Kinda sick of trying to find parts for this obscure motor and worst case I'd potentially swap a 35de into it but I'm unsure how compatible the looms are and wether that is a massive job in of itself? Any and all help would be appreciated, cheers.
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From the album: Untitled Album
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From the album: my v35
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Hi everyone, really hoping someone can help me with an issue ive been having! Ive been battling this for a while not with my 2001 300GT (VQ300DD). I have a constant current draw on my battery which drains it if I leave the terminals connected for a more than a few days, battery seems fine if I just unplug it whenever im not using it I disconnected negative terminal and measured current draw across the battery with everything off and it is ~400mA. I understand this should be closer to ~50mA. I trawled the internet for wiring diagrams and the only one I could find was a Russian version, ive attached a screenshot below and labelled what I think are relevant sections. I pulled fuses and discovered the issue with the 15A fuse that controls quite a few components.. From the fuse I went to the relay labelled 1 located in the IPDM cluster and put a jumper across coil terminals first and then relay terms. I discovered that the fault was on the relay circuit and not the coil circuit, this lead me to believe that the issue could lie with the components labelled as group 3 below. Im realising now that group 2 is off this circuit as well which I haven't checked.. Group 3 consists of MAF sensor, camshaft position sensors and crank shaft sensor. I pulled all the wire harnesses on these but did not see any change in current draw so concluded these to not be the issue. I then unplugged the ECCS labelled 4 and the current dropped to ~130mA From here Im not too sure how to proceed, does this mean my ECU is bad or could it be any other device connected to the ECU?? Im reluctant to buy a replacement ECU before being certain I know where the fault lies.. Im also curious as the current draw is still slightly higher than expected.. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance!
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Hi All, I recently purchased a 2002 Nissan Skyline V35 250GT, and have used this forum for almost every query I've had with it, so before I post my questions (and sorry in advance if they have already been covered), I would like to thank all contributors of the VQ Series forums for their insight thus far. I'm looking at changing the spark plugs in my V35 250GT, but can't find any part numbers for iridium plugs. I've searched on the NGK website and the only option it provided was LFR5BP-11 (Platinum). If anyone has changed theirs with iridium before on the 250GT, please let me know which ones and if possible, an approximate price and/or recommended retailer...? I also wish to upgrade the air intake with a Stillen system or JWT/Stillen. If anyone has done this on the V35 before, please let me know what products you installed and through whom you purchased them - all I'm finding at the moment is retailers from the US and limited compatibility information. And finally, if anybody has any insight into reprogramming/translating the nav system, please let me know. I am aware Chris Rogers has moved to the US but was curious if anyone has "taken over". I am situated in Adelaide, South Australia. Any guidance with the above is much appreciated, Thanks -
Hi all! I am a brand new member but long time lurker hailing from Victoria. I know that this topic has been raised a few times here and I am unsure about the posting etiquette, but each time I search I end up leaving confused and feeling uncertain… I would be really grateful for any opinions and inputs from you veterans! So, I am the proud owner of a V35 coupe (pearl white) and I am on the hunt for some decent wheels to fit flush… Budget preferably $1500-$2000 with tyres (am open to 2nd hand in good nick of course). Right now as you can see in the pictures I am running HRS556 18’’/8.5/45 offset all round + 5mm spacers rear fitted by the shop WHICH I want to get rid of realising they are not legal. I paid $1400 for wheels/tyres fitted with an alignment in a package deal when I knew nothing… SO basically I have screwed myself once by getting the wrong offset and can’t afford to do it again. – I am willing to admit I am still a noob by the way, this is my first car with doing anything to… A divorce present from me to me to keep me sane. ^_^ How tucked the wheels are, especially in the rear really bothers me. I have read that 9.5 fronts + 10.5 rears with 22 offset is perfect for flush right? - I will also re-sell the current wheels to subsidize my losses The main two wheels I am looking at are: 1. Silver or black centre/mirror lip ESR SR series, SR06 in 18’’ mostly (Pretty much well-made WORK reps) 9.5 fronts +30 and 10.5 rears + 22, will cost about 1550 for just the wheels without there being a Christmas sale or something/can get a couple hundred cheaper from USA. – Don’t want to spend heaps on rims and cheap out on tyres though… 2. Gloss black mirror lip Simmons FR1s 17/18’’ 17s are 17/8.5 Fronts and 17/9.5 Rears, custom offsets for $25 per wheel. Or 18/8.5 Front and 18/9.5 rear. On sale for about $1250 without tyres leaving room to get some mid-range rubber. – Located near me ad here: https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/rowville/wheels-tyres-rims/18-inch-simmons-fr1-wheels-18x8-5-x9-5-rims-alloy-x4-5x114-3/1195743347 Now I know what people think about Simmons being a Falcadore wheel, but they seem like a strong reputable wheel, due to being a simple style with a little dish & in black/mirror on a white car it would look clean/nice My argument for 17s is I actually like the look of more tyre, would I get a smoother ride too? (18 is still nice) if so what specs and would the offset change from 18s or is that based on width? Anyone recommend the offset for 9.5 rears if they don’t make 10.5? All that being said love looking at all of your 20s, but not for me. Clearly I am lost here and really don’t want to mess it up again. My car right now: - Guards are not rolled in the rear, don’t really want to either if possible and I have read most people with these kind of specs don’t anyway - I don’t want poke or to do anything that could get me defected, this is only meant to be a clean & nice looking daily cruiser (probably ceramic coating the paint soon) – just straight flush - Stock height Thanks guys! Ps. Are there any meets or shows in Vic? I would love to get out and into scene (if there is one) just to look & learn etc. -
Hey guys so im at a loss. Im getting my car ready to sell and this morning everything has gone to shit. I own an 04 V35 and now i have no back dash light, no radio controls and my AC is stuck on 25 at full blast. I had one fuse out by the foot but that was only for my mirror controls. Ive googled and it might be the finisher curcuit but no one is mentioning the dash cluster out from that issue. Ive booked into the auto electrician but its a small town and he sounded pretty stumped when i explained the issue. Any suggestion? Really appreciate any help i could get right now. -
Hi all! My name is Sam. I am a brand new member but long time lurker hailing from Victoria. I know that this topic has been raised a few times here and I am unsure about the posting etiquette, but each time I search I end up leaving unsure… I would be really grateful for any opinions and inputs from you veterans! So, I am the proud owner of a V35 coupe (pearl white) and I am on the hunt for some decent wheels to fit flush… Budget preferably $1500-$2000 with tyres (am open to 2nd hand in good nick of course). Right now as you can see in the pictures I am running HRS556 18’’/8.5/45 offset all round + 5mm spacers rear fitted by the shop WHICH I want to get rid of realising they are not legal. I paid $1400 for wheels/tyres fitted with an alignment in a package deal when I knew nothing… SO basically I have screwed myself once by getting the wrong offset and can’t afford to do it again. – I am willing to admit I am still a noob by the way, this is my first car with doing anything to… A divorce present from me to me to keep me sane. ^_^ How tucked the wheels are, especially in the rear really bothers me. I have read that 9.5 fronts + 10.5 rears with 22 offset is perfect for flush right? - I will also re-sell the current wheels to subsidize my losses The main two wheels I am looking at are: 1. Silver or black centre/mirror lip ESR SR series, SR06 in 18’’ mostly (Pretty much well-made WORK reps) 9.5 fronts +30 and 10.5 rears + 22, will cost about 1550 for just the wheels without there being a Christmas sale or something/can get a couple hundred cheaper from USA. – Don’t want to spend heaps on rims and cheap out on tyres though… 2. Gloss black mirror lip Simmons FR1s 17/18’’ 17s are 17/8.5 Fronts and 17/9.5 Rears, custom offsets for $25 per wheel. Or 18/8.5 Front and 18/9.5 rear. On sale for about $1250 without tyres leaving room to get some mid-range rubber. – Located near me ad here: https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/rowville/wheels-tyres-rims/18-inch-simmons-fr1-wheels-18x8-5-x9-5-rims-alloy-x4-5x114-3/1195743347 Now I know what people think about Simmons being a Falcadore wheel, but they seem like a strong reputable wheel, due to being a simple style with a little dish & in black/mirror on a white car it would look clean/nice My argument for 17s is I actually like the look of more tyre, would I get a smoother ride too? (18 is still nice) if so what specs and would the offset change from 18s or is that based on width? Anyone recommend the offset for 9.5 rears if they don’t make 10.5? All that being said love looking at all of your 20s, but not for me. Clearly I am lost here and really don’t want to mess it up again. My car right now: - Guards are not rolled in the rear, don’t really want to either if possible and I have read most people with these kind of specs don’t anyway - I don’t want poke or to do anything that could get me defected, this is only meant to be a clean & nice looking daily cruiser (probably ceramic coating the paint soon) – just straight flush - Stock height Thanks guys! Ps. Are there any meets or shows in Vic? I would love to get out and into the scene (if there is one) just to look & learn etc. Much love, sorry for the long post! ?
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Firstly - mods if this post is not allowed or in the wrong section please move/ delete! Do you have an M35 stagea in white? (paint code QX1)I am looking for expressions of interest to trade front end parts with you. I'm after guards, bonnet, lights, radiator support, grille and front bumper (plus all the little clips and bolts)In exchange you would get very clean, white, series 2 V35 bonnet, lights, bumper, guards, radiator support and grille. You'd get a v35 front end on your Stag and I'd get your parts.Have no idea how likely this is to work but if you don't ask you'll never know. Pic attached of my car and happy to post more photos for interested parties.Located Sydney and happy to travel to help uninstall your parts if need be! Thanks,Mark
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Hi Guys & Girls Apologies if this has been addressed elsewhere, I did search the forums but could not fin the info. Please advise link if there is one and I will delete this thread (yes, I'm a total newbie) We finally received our 2003 350GT V35 Skyline (Track Edition) last week. I'm looking for an engine oil cooler kit for it and would like to know if any of you have fitted one to your vehicles and which one you used? We are in remote Western Australia so we do not have performance workshops up here to be able to take our vehicle for a custom fitment. I have searched the internet high and low and made numerous phone calls but as the description of the part says it is for a 350z or Infiniti so I'm a bit sceptical to order a $1300+ part not knowing it 100% will suit. To be honest I'm not the full bottle on imports, my partner is the Skyline man (owned the R33 or R34 years ago) of our family but is away working and I need to organise one. I absolutely LOVE the car, so much better than the Hilux I used to own If anyone could share their experiences it would be greatly appreciated. LM -
I have what looks like a factory reverse camera in my gt350 2003 but dont know if you have to press any buttons to get it working as its all in Japanese. Anyone got any tips ? -
Has anyone found and fitted a pu front spoiler for a gt350? mine is a 2003 and i can only find fiberglass front lip/ spoilers in Australia. Wanting to get one but the infiniti ones from the states have the different shaped beside the air intake holes in the bar apparently. Can anyone confirm the rest of the bar off a infiniti is the same ? i will be prepared to cut off the bit which goes into the intake holes.
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I am after some wheels for my V35 350gt coupe (Brembo's) I just bought a V35 and it came with Weds Kranze Crishna 19x9 +11 (25mm spacer to clear the Brembo's) and 19x10 +16 I love these wheels and they are very rare but they are too aggressive. I have raised the car as this is my daily driver and they just do not sit flush any more. There is some gutter rash but no cracks or buckles. Tyres are Kuhmo ecsta spt 225x40x19 and Goodyear Eagle F1 245x40x19 all still about 80% left. Let me know if you have anything not so aggressive but still able to fill out the guards (not interested in using any spacers anymore) Located 3029 Vic Cheers
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vic V35 coupe headlights
Bird of Rain posted a topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
2003 V35 coupe headlights for sale. Good condition but will need low beam HID kit from your headlights. $200 -
Hey.. I got a 2002 V35 350gt-8 sedan and am doing a manual conversion & other repairs here and there.. Does anyone have a torque spec sheet for these cars? I have been looking online for something and only really found this https://www.autozone.com/repairguides/Nissan-Murano-2003-05/Specifications/Torque-Specifications/_/P-0996b43f803806ac Any help is greatly appreciated. I'm just a DIY guy who's trying to get his car rolling at the end of the day lol Thanks
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Good day, My Nissan Skyline V35 250 GT stop operating at 100% a month ago. I was driving accelerating then when i hit 60km/h it started to shake showing an inconsistency in power and then finally just stopped revving and could only idle. I disconnected the airflow sensor and could only rev it it to 2500 rpm. My mechanic suspected the pump and then we changed it and tried to connect the air flow sensor back, then it wouldn't even idle but switch off. What could be the problem because my next port of call is the fuel pressure sensors as advised by the mechanic? Good day, My Nissan Skyline keeps shaking when i reach 2500 rpm and when i -
Hello guys, I picked up a nice little 2003 350GT-8 with a buggered CVT gearbox, I fitted a secondhand CVT gearbox but was unable to rectify the faults. After about 1 year of spending time trying to find the faults, I decided I would make the leap and convert the sedan to a 6MT from a 350Z. Please try and refrain from writing things like "WHY DIDNT YOU JUST BUY A MANUAL TO START WITH" etc etc. I don't care. The car cost me $1500 licensed and all, and 2k for the conversion. Still cheaper than buying a 350 6MT. This post will contain as many photos as possible as I progress through the build. This will be continually updated as I complete the stages. I have never been able to find out about mounting the handbrake lever, or the legalities on cutting the transmission tunnel out to fit the gearbox. I hope to provide some light on these matters for the next person to take on the conversion project. Removed CVT and threw it in the skip bin. Best feeling of my life. GOOD RIDDANCE. Removed the following; Carpet (needed a clean anyway) Front and rear seats Center console HVAC and anything in my way Witing harness Airbag module, Gyro & Traction control module. (NOTE ANYTHING WITH YELLOW PLUGS IS SRS AIRBAGS, MAKE SURE BATTERY UNPLUGGED ALSO DO NOT FLIP OVER THE SRS MODULE FROM UNDER THE CONSOLE, IF YOUR BATTERY IS CONNECTED OR IT HAS CHARGE IT WILL SET OFF YOUR AIRBAGS. IVE SEEN IT DONE. VERY DANGEROUS.) Brackets and really anything you see is going to slow you down. Mock fitted the console and handbrake assembly to see the alignment. Measured gearbox to the tunnel. Pictures of the handbrake assembly and how it DOES NOT match anything on the original tunnel, I guess you could make up a few brackets and cut some holes but that is dodgy and I want this thing to be as good as factory when I am done. I have a manual tunnel from a 350Z, I have decided to remove the inner skin that has the moulding for the manual trans and the handbrake that I require. Once done will be as simple as bolting it all onto the new inner skin as per factory. I was able to drill out the spot welds with a Spot weld cutter available for $20 its like a little hole saw. I have a qualified boilermaker / engineer on hand to weld the skin into the cars existing tunnel. There are A LOT of little spot welds not marked with arrows, the arrows are just pointing out a few of the ones I started to cut out. More photos and info to come! Thanks -
Just got some Recaro seat rails on the cheap for my car (stagea). My question is: do all recaros seats use the same size rail? (and other brands respectively as well) ie. if I have recaro rails can I safely go out and whack any recaro seat on it? I'm looking at nabbing seats from an Evo X, unless anyone else has any good leads!
