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Showing results for tags 'vacuum'.
Found 9 results
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Hi I'm having trouble with my bov. Got it all recirculated but when I put the vacuum line on the bov I get no boost. The previous owner had blocked the bov and had the vacuum line running back to the other lines. Could it be the bov has a big leak? Sorry still new to turbo cars. It's a r33 with a rb25det. Cheers
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Hey everyone, for the life of me i cant find a diagram for a rb26det neo. I have noticed im missing this vacuum line and i cannot find where it is meant to go. Thank you
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Good day guys....so i have a nissan laurel with a rb25det swap.Engine is Bone stock except for an Front Mounted intercooler I wanted to know the vacuum line which runs off the wastegate,Where does it need to be hooked?(I do not have a boost solenoid).As of right now it is installed onto my intake manifold.However i am baffled as to whether it should be on the intercooler piping or the INtake manifold.
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Autometer Procomp Ultralite Boost / Vacuum Gauge - PN 4403 - 2 5/8" (60mm) http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugedetail.aspx?gid=3154&sid=11 Comes with everything you need; light, wiring, vacuum hose. Perfect condition. Reason for sale: bought a EBC with inbuilt boost reading. Location: Doncaster East, Victoria Price: $70 -
Hey guys hope you don't mind first post being a question been asking on 31 club but haven't had a lot of replies. I've recently installed a series 1 25 into my 31. 109,000 kms on engine Redtop J pipe (no bov) 2.5 fmic way to big. standard dump, de-cat and 3" blast pipes. GFB boost controller set at 8 psi Bosch 040 pump As you can see it's stock. I have checked all the vacuum lines and swapped the j pipe because I thought the spring in the bov was gone and leaking. I've checked all silicone joiners. I have a boost gauge hooked up in the engine bay to help with diagnostics, no boost spiking or drop so I'd have to say it doesn't have a vacuum leak. I've changed the afm out with a couple others took a lot of the missing away but not completely. I've tried screwing the icv all the way in as well as unplugging it to see if that was the issue. I've tried adjusting the tps and put it back to where it originally was. Now when you start it it'll idle for a few seconds at 500 then raise and settle to a thousand rpm. Between 1000 and 2000 rpm it has a slight hesitation, car will drop revs below idle when you back off the throttle. Anything over 2000rpm when you back off throttle if you don't blip it the car will completely stall. Even if you're doing 5 grand in 4th... I'm really stuck here and getting a little bit over everything if I'm honest I'd just look to put some km's on it. If anyone has any ideas please let me know anything else to add to the list to check, and a few tips on how to check it would be amazing.
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have just put my engine back into my r33 list of mods below. the problem i'm having it it has nearly no vacuum at idle when it idles at 1500rpm. then for no reason, the rpm will pick up and then idle at 2200rpm. i have carried out a smoke test on the engine with no results. with the engine running, i have sprayed everywhere around anything that can potentially become a vacuum leak or cause one. e.g (injector seals, plumbing fittings under plenum, around the valve covers, the brake booster, the throttle body seal, the gasket faces) i have blocked of the hose to the brake booster to eliminate the booster, no change there. out of ideas, can anybody help me please. i have spent over $30k on this motor, i need to get it working, really getting frustrated. thanks engine: rb25det head full cnc with vg30 over sized valves 1.5mm custom grind cams from surecams (297 in, 310 ex, 10.2mm lift) hks adjustable cams gears plazmaman plenum plazmaman 75mm billet throttle body 40thou over JE customs pistons perfect circle rings brian crower rods nitrided and heat treated crank N1 oil pump davies craig electric water pump and fan controller hks 1000cc injectors on rb26 hks top feed rail hks t04z 0.82 a/r rear housing 6boost high mount manifold hks 50mm gt2 wastegate plazmaman fmic GZ motorsport vacuum pump with relief valve fuel system: bosch 040 intank 2L surge tank 2 x bosch 044 inline pumps twin lines to fuel rail aeromotive fuel reg.
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In desperate need of help Got a 180sx with a rb20 but con rods went through block so did the heart transplant.. btw this is my first time doing anything like this so Im a complete delinquent but I just need clarification. The car has a oil catcher which is whats confusing me and hasnt got a charcoal canister (the orange, light green and brown that go to nothing are just blocked off by a screw) which is also doing my head in with whats necessary and whatnot and so far in the pic is what I got with the previous setup. any help will be very much appreciated!
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While my Bora is in a million parts I've started looking for other stuff to fix. I then leaned on a small piece of vacuum line and heard a crack and lots of airflow/sucking! The brake booster vacuum line is brittle as hell and needs replacing. The two replacement hoses from VW are $300 so I thought I'd see if I can make my own up (car's not worth a lot, its not worth me getting OEM ones). One end is apparently 13mm ID which could be a problem as I've only seen silicon line up to 6mm ID. This is the part that goes to a one way valve. Can I use fuel line? Can I get some silicon line? Can I just fix the existing vacuum line somehow (cracks seem to be only around the ends of the line and not mid-way.) Looks like she's been in a bad way for quite some time and that I just made it worse. Could I cause any probs by using non-exact hoses (ie larger or smaller ID)? Is it easy to increase/reduse size of silicon lines? Sanks.
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Would anybody know what their manifold vacuum (mmHG) at idle is? Thanks
