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Showing results for tags 'valve'.
Found 12 results
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I have for sale for R33 and some general parts also Impul Front strut brace removed from BCNR33, It's pretty clean, side plates are also alloy and cup to the strut tower. Awesome brace, and Impul stuff is awesome. (May also fit R34?) $220 ONO BCNR33 Factory rear strut brace, Adjustable, sweet red skyline sticker so you don't forget what type of car you have, Its in decent condition. $140 ONO RB26DETT valve covers, plug cover with plaque, and front timing cover with the vac hose on there, Currently being polished, will chuck pics are soon as I get them back. $offer (Sorry for phone pic quality) -
Hi All, I bought a complete R32 RB26 to use the head on a 26/30 and am now looking to offload the bottom end. It has had something go through it so it will require new pistons and a bore to 86.5mm or possibly 87mm. I'm looking for: Block - $150 Crank - $150 Rods & Pistons - $80 Or: Crank, rods & pistons - $200 Crank, rods, pistons & block - $300 I also have: RB26 sump modified to suit RWD - $100 factory oil cooler/heat exchanger - $30 AAC Valve - $50 Standard fuel rail modified to be twin entry - $50 You can contact me via PM or on 0427 123 414 Cheers, Shane
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Hey guys, have a r32 fender in 4 door silver met blue, not in best condition (dints/warped alittle etc) would really only be good for a drift car or maybe a panel beater could straighten it out $20 R32 AAC valve, good working order (bought another one thinking it could be my issue but turns out there was nothing wrong with the first one) $50 can post for $15 Also have a drivers side 4 door front door, complete with glass, loom but no mirror or interior trim $50 in alright nick Pick up from banora point NSW can deliver anywhere on the gold coast for $15 -
Hey guys, looking for a set of rb26 valve covers for a reasonable price. As for the condition, dont care for the paint since I'll be painting it anyway. As long as the parts arent broken or cracked its fine. And if you couldn't tell from my broken english, I'm from the netherlands. So the seller must be willing to ship worldwide.
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For sale are some rb26 parts from a running r32 gtr. Posting from townsville. Contact email: [email protected] text: 0434916740 NEW Supertech Pistons 86.5mm/8.5cr part no: p6-rb26/86.50-8.5cr $550 All parts below have done just under 8000km. HKS Stage 1 cams with unknown adjustable cam gears INLET, 2202-RN124 Duration 264. Lift 8.7mm step 1 EXHAUST, 2202-RN127 Duration 272. Lift 8.7mm step 1 $500 Spool Rods $450 Obx 11mm Fuel Rail & Aeroflow fuel pressure regulator and fittings $200 RC Fuel injectors 750cc with clips PL4-0750 bosch style clip $400 Supertech Dual Valve Springs With ti-retainer Part number: SPRK-m1007d/rb $400 (also comes with inner washers to go between head and spring)
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For sale are some rb26 parts, as i'm putting the standard parts back in before selling my r32 gtr, to fund my new bike and super-motard setup for this year. Posting from townsville. Contact email: [email protected] text: 0434916740 NEW Supertech Pistons 86.5mm/8.5cr $550 All parts below have done just under 8000km. HKS Stage 1 cams with unknown adjustable cam gears $500 Tomie Dump Pipes $400 Spool Rods $450 Ross Tuffbond metal jacket balancer $400 Mines cam Baffles $200 Fuel Rail & Aeroflow fuel pressure regulator $200 RC Fuel injectors 750cc with clips $400 Nismo rb26 oil pump $800 Supertech Dual Valve Springs With ti-retainer $400 (also comes with inner washers to go between head and spring) Old Oem Valves $ make a offer
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Hi all. Tried to search for the issue, but I didn't have much luck finding anything relating directly to my issue. Car has a stock blow off valve, plumbed back. Decided to make a plate to block it off, you know for flutter/dose/compressor surge whatever you want to call it. Car runs great, starts fine, idles fine, holds boost, flutters... But if I am idling and rev it slightly, then take my foot off the throttle, it hunts for a while then goes back to idling fine. Sometimes it drops to 100-200 rpm, sometimes just to 600, stalled a couple times. It doesn't ALWAYS do it. It is mainly a concern when I am in traffic and need to move forward slightly. Black smoke also comes out the exhaust when hunting. Rich? Is it because it was tuned with the plumb back blow off and it is expecting that air for idle and isn't receiving it? I have blocked the vacuum line going to the bov and the plumb back pipe. I haven't tried plumbing the bov back in and taking out the blanking plate. Will do that soon and report back. R34 gt-t rb25det neo Garret low mount on 18psi avc-r boost controller power fc supporting mods
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Early RB finned valve covers Hi guys, I know it's a long time since I was active here, hope that's no prob. Right now I'm looking for a set of early RB finned valve covers as the title says. Condition doesn't matter me as long as they are doing their job. Important! You need to ship them to germany, costs will be paid by myself. Here are some nice examples: Thanks guys.
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RB26 Head Spring and Retainer Kit - which one? Hi. I have fully forged engine, Nitto oil pump, Ross harmonic balancer etc etc. My head is still stock, just have HKS SS 264 8.7mm lift I wanna safe revv for 8800-9000 rpm. Which valve spring kit should i buy for that cams and stock valves? Brian Crower BC0230? Street use car with EFR8374.
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Full set of brand new Ferrea 1mm valve for RB25 det neo.Part # F1934P & F1936P $1100 -
As my title states I have a question about upgrading the valves on my RB25DET NEO engine. I had a timing belt mishap that decided to bend all 24 of my valves so I am needing to replace them. I brought the head to a machine shop who ordered Ferrea NEO valves (par numbers F1935P & F1933P) and upon arrival they were different than the OEM valves that were in the engine. Keep in mind I have not seen either of these valves in person yet. Supposedly the OEM valves are 6mm at the stem and then about 1cm from the top taper down into a 5mm stem. But the Ferrea valves don't taper down - they just stay 6mm the whole length of the stem - thus is requiring me to replace all my keepers, springs, etc (everything to do with the valves) resulting in a MUCH higher cost than anticipated and much higher cost than I can afford. Essentially what I am wondering is if someone has replaced their valves with Ferrea ones and kept all the other OEM components such as keepers, springs, etc. and had it work just fine. I am starting to wonder if this shop is just trying to get more money out of me.
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Hi guys, I joined up here a few years ago when I used to own an r-33 GTR, this community has been really helpful in the past and obviously has a lot of experienced with modified cars & blue slips. I desperately need advice on my current situation. I live in Sydney & own a 2000 SUBARU IMPREZA WRX, which I foolishly allowed to run out of rego (wasn't driving it often, money pretty tight), I didn't realise it would be so difficult to get a blue slip for a modified car. My mechanic down the road quoted me $2250 all up (wtf?) to put it back to stock and do the following work (obviously he's a completely by the book guy, possibly over-quoted as well): - pedal rubbers (the pedals are aftermarket lol) - check off valve - exhaust (its a half system) - NISIR stop light (not sure what NISIR means, but he said the stop light was out) - Oil leaks - Radiator support panel bent (I hit a bump in the road pretty hard about a year back damaged the front lip of the car, so I assume that's what its from) - Headlight covers (presumably not a big deal) Where should I take it (around Sydney) and what's the best approach to get a blue slip for the least amount of money possible? The main issues are obviously the exhaust, the check off valve and the bent radiator panel, nothing else seems major. I can't afford to put thousands of dollars into a car that's worth ~5k. That being said the car is reliable and has plenty of years left in it. I also really can't afford a new car either. Is an engineers certificate my only option? Please help!
