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On the hunt for a series 2 Stagea Dayz front lip. Located in NZ but happy to pay for shipping

Hi. I have been trying to figure out what wcu's that cross over the same harnes, but whatevwr i google i don't realy get a good answer. I have truble with my rb25det s2 4wd auto car, and want to try to use a Manual ecu in it to se if it migth help with the problems im having, problem is that i have no idea what ecu that wil work with the engien. And yes i do know that the gearbox wont shift on its own if i put a manual ecu in it,

Hey guys and girls... got an ad on gumtree if you cbf looking it up. Located NOR Perth, WA Got some random left over parts that came from a silver c34 series 1 stagea. heres a list: Super stupidly rare grille (Series 1) - I think it is off a 25G and there were stuff all of those imported and its the only one in Perth that I am aware of. $250 Silver rear bumper (series 1) - $100 R34 silver bov piping (connects to black pipe which connects to BOV) - $10 3 rear baby seat clips (on roof cargo bay area) middle clip cover snapped off on one (would suit someone who needs one or 2 covers?) grey in colour - $10 Supa cheap red pod filters (have one that was used for 2000kms and another that was on the car b4 i bought it so pretty old and little bit faded) - Good one $15 , old one $5 Also have set of shocks/springs combo I bought off someone over east on SAU - told me had done 110000kms and I used for maybe 10000kms or so (was told it had lowered rear springs but pretty sure they are stock height but fronts def lower) - It has stock front shocks with rsr springs and rear kyb agx damper adjustable shock with stock springs - $250 Front driver seat - $50 4 contipro sport tyres (235/45/17) - good for skids/drift around 2-4mm tread ($50 set) Prefer txt message (0422 194 26four) or email (peter-toth@hotmaildotcom) as I don't go on here anymore (ONLY ABOVE ITEMS ARE STILL AVAILABLE) can send new pics upon request. I am open to offers on everything EXCEPT the grille as that will remain at $250 until someone is prepared to pay what I am asking as its worth it Cheers yo! Peter

Hi everyone Factory option for WC34 Stagea. Plug and play. Replace your old povvo bulb type high mount brake lamp. $5o including post anywhere in Oz. 0419 196543 Thanks

Hi all, I've just recently bought a Series 1 WGNC34 1996 Stagea which is registered and running well, but needs some love to get back in good shape (shocks, springs, aircon, audio improvements, paint is peeling and there are dents/scratched but I don't really care as much for aesthetics as I do mechanics). And I've just recently sold a 1991 redtop sr20 180SX. I guess the reason I never joined when I bought that car 5 years ago was that I didn't have much interest in getting more power out of it. Realistically I should have worked with it more, but I just kind of had different priorities then I guess. I had an AE86 before that which was hands down the easiest car to work on and a lot of fun even on a low budget. Anyway, the plan for the Stagea is to take it from Sydney to the snow a lot during winter! Love snowboarding. And to use it as a functional daily, which is certainly more practical than a 180. Who knows, maybe one day it'll be a tow car for something I wanna smash around the track (if I get a proper garage and funds for a project) but I have no plans to work more power out of the stagea (yet). I've lurked these forums before, and it seems like a fairly active user base and a friendly bunch overall Happy to be a part of it. Thanks for reading! Nye

Hey Guys, Im chasing a set of RB25det series 2 splitfire coilpacks in QLD. 0432832497 Thanks Heaps

Painting S1 C34 Headlights? So there seem to be plenty of tutorials on painting or cleaning M35 headlights and even some on the S2 C34 headlights. What I want to know is if anyone has painting their headlights black or some other colour, obviously not the reflector, but the other chrome bits. As I have spiders and some gunk in there and it just looks bad, seeing as i'm cleaning up the car heaps I thought i'd knock it out of the way now. Thx

Racepace built Nissan Stagea RS4 manual 300kw For Sale $17,500 I’m taking expressions of interest as i'm deciding if I should part out my car or sell as is. The Car: Modified 2000 Nissan Stagea RS4 WGNC34 manual (converted), personal vehicle owner of Racepace Motorsport. I have owned this vehicle since 2009, it has 220,000km on the chassis 51,000km on the engine. The chassis is straight, but is showing age with car park scratches, paint chips and worn interior parts, as well as other small annoyances like clunks behind door trims on big bumps, but generally in great condition for its age and presents well. I have since purchased another daily and need to decide what to do with this car. The Stagea drives well, handles quiet reasonably, has plenty of torque and has been super reliable for me. I have used on three occasions as a tow vehicle for the track GTR and it performs well. The engine bay looks standard enough to pass roadworthy and satisfy road side inspections. The car is making a reliable 290kw on 98 (stock piping is holding this back a little) and I have had it on E85 as a little test making 340kw at the wheels. Piping could be changed to increase the peak power output if desired, but this car was built for the torque and mid power and I wanted the bay to look stockish and see how far we could push the OEM manifold and piping etc. Plus I didn't want any extra attention if pulled over. Car is located in Ferntree Gully / Bayswater, VIC I have found it difficult to come up with an evaluation / sale price, as I appreciate the market value is low and will never reflect the price of the modifications. So my thoughts were to come up with a list of all the parts and come up with prices I think are reasonable on the second hand market as per below. I feel I would be happy to let the car go as is for $17,500, but if I can't get this, then it will be worthwhile to part it out. Here is a list of the modifications and my evaluation: Racepace built RB30/25 with neo head, built in 2009, this is built to our stage 1 package with forged pistons, RB30 OEM crank and rods, N1 oil pump, new thermostat, full head recondition, Racepace custom bearings, full balance, precision assembly etc, with sump adaptor, diff ratios are C34 auto 4.08:1 $7500 Racepace 3.5" exhaust with 3.5" CAT and two Racepace 3.5" mufflers and 3.5" dump / front pipe $2200 Garret GT35 ball bearing with smaller FG XR6 compressor wheel, 0.82A/R internally gated turbine housing and 14PSI actuator $850 Shockworks custom coilovers (we have tried multiple valving codes and spring rates to get the ride optimal) $1200 Wheels and Tyres - 18" Enkei RPF1 with ATR sport tyres $1500 Brembo F40 330mm two piece front brake kit $1700 Blitz Intercooler kit (stagea version) $250 NIStune RS4 ECU $200 Rescaled stock pink 3pin AFM to Z32 Scale $200 R35 GTR fuel injectors $150 Split fire NEO coils $400 3+ tonne tow bar with hayman-reece hitch $450 Nismo rear GT LSD - 2 way (modified by Racepace to be acceptable on the street - softened off) $850 Registrable and complied Manual Rolling shell $2500 with: GTR 5 speed, Racepace transfer case modification Walbro 255 fuel pump + relay setup Nismo clear side indicators Mongoose M80 alarm Sony MP3 / ipod head unit, alpine amp Hardrace rubber rear camber arms (plus more) Total estimated parts valuation: $19,950+

Stagea Rebirth Thread Hi all, Probably don't really need to make a whole thread for the build. But I noticed that there were some grey kind of areas when I searched on how to do things. So I'm kind of just going to try and put everything into this one thread. Keep in mind this is my first car and I had never really worked or touched a car before, so this was all so new to me. If you do have any questions feel free to ask and i'll try answer them. First of all, 27th of Jan (Crash day) Funnily enough I was doing my restricted license test, needless to say, I failed. This was a learning experience for me, so don't crash lol. Damage wasn't too bad. It could have been so much worse, Bent subframe Broken control arms Bent in shock Cracked rim Smashed door Smashed in wheel arch Here are some photos of the crash. 1st of Feb This is where I kind of headed off task a bit and started doing some side jobs that I had listed to do in the future, and since I knew the car wasn't going to be moving for a while (Didn't end up moving for 2 months lol) I pulled off the fenders and front bumper etc, wanted to give all behind there a good wipedown. I managed to strip the last bolt holding on the RH fender so that didn't end up coming off for a fair while. I started trying to drill it out but gave up on that. So I just left it for the time being. 6th of Feb Picked up the new parts from Liam (cheers bro) Got pretty much every part I needed from him, all went into the trusty Hilux. I even sat with the replacement door in the back lol 11th of Feb A few weeks go by and we've done quite a bit of work I guess, all the old damaged stuff out and swapped over the diff, axels etc into the new subframe. This was a pretty long day and we worked pretty hard. I'm sure if we had done this before it would have been a lot faster. 15th of Feb Picked up some new V35 'premium' rims for $300, with 2 bold and 2 5mm tread, and a spare tyre with some tread. Decent deal if you ask me. Definitely should put em on this Golf though 19th of Feb Bought a pair of vice grips and got that stupid stripped bolt out with ease, so now all the front end panels were off and I gave them a good clean down. This also means I could get off the side skirts. 25th of Feb Now I started to sand back the side skirts for repainting as they were pretty shocking, I'd never done any sort of sanding or spray painting before so this was all so new to me. Apparently I sanded it back too far but oh well. I got one of the side skirts plasti dipped (yes, I know, plasti dip isn't really that good haha). Well, It didn't turn out the best, from me dropping my phone on it while it was still wet wasn't the best as that left a huge spot, along with bugs wanting to go and sit on it. I am still yet to paint the second side skirt and am putting it off till I man up lol. 26th of Feb We put in the replacement subframe, which was pretty much all we did that day. We had some issues with the new shocks, they didn't have bumpstops or the shock boot. So we went to swap them over onto the new shocks from the old ones but we couldn't get it over a little lip. My uncle took them away to get them sorted. I also test fitted the new wheels, and bloody hell lol. They didn't sit flush. I sat there googling the specs for the bore and what not, it should all add up! So I made a post on the Facebook group (Join that if you haven't haha) and Jez, straight off the bat said to check for rings around the hub or the wheel, I took a look and couldn't see anything About a half hour later and posting a close up of the hub someone pointed out that the non rusted ring was probably a spacer thing. Turns out it was. Stupid thing. 4th March Another off task thing I did, Stripped out the rear interior and decided I would give cleaning out the spare wheel well a go, as one of the previous owners apparently spilt some fluids in there and they ate away at the sound deadening material, which made the whole area sticky as hell. And everything I did to try and clean all the stickyness off just made it worse. I used like 10 cans of degreaser and yeah, that didn't work. Apparently dry ice works a charm, I tried to find where to get some and bosch sells it, but without being able to drive there that was a no go. I'm a pretty impatient guy so I didn't want to have it shipped lol. I ended up just using a heat gun and scraping it up. Should have just used a heat gun from the beginning because it was super effective, besides my terrible hand eye coordination and me burning my hand which has now left a hefty scar. 7th March Camo wrap arrives!!! I always wanted an invisible door. (thats all that happened today lol) 12th March Gave the spare wheel well a final clean before I put in the Dynamat. Dynamat edges are pretty sharp as i've learnt, and it does sting when you get cut. So that all went in pretty well, I used the 'Dynamat Extreme Wedge Pack' which is 18x32 in size. It seemed to cover the wheel well pretty good, covered more area than the factory stuff. 18th March Oh man, we did heaps, got everything back together, got the shocks installed, wheels on, and the car started for the first time in almost 2 months! Bleeding the ATTESA system was probably the hardest thing over all that we did today. I searched high and wide on threads for how to bleed the system, but I couldn't find one for the stagea which was annoying, so we went with what we could, we opened the black nipple and got all the air out of that, then proceeded onto doing the front nipple, we think we bled that one properly. The plug in the drivers side kick panel was weird. First off with that, my plug didn't have the same colour plug hich confused us but we figured its the only plug that looks like it, so we went with that. We still didn't really know how to make the fluid come out the bleed nipple as when we unplugged the connector the pump started (or a pump) and fluid came out, and we kind of just unplugged and plugged back in quite a few times until it stopped coming out/was just fluid with no air. Not 100% sure if its actually bled lol. Definitely going to be wiring up a switch to that connector as its a pain to get down there. I then left the next morning at 5am to do a 3 day kayaking trip in Lake Tarawera, so bonus pic! 22/23 of March So when we put eveything back in on the 18th we forgot to put on the sway bar, so I had to install that, and faarrk. That was hard with the car up on jack stands as the lower control arms were angled downward from the suspension and weight of the wheels, so this made angling it hard. Along with the fact that I left half of the old swaybar bolt on the old subframe control arm. We got the swaybar installed. And I proceeded to put on all the front end panels and lights. I never got around to opening and cleaning the lights which is annoying but oh well, not that hard to take out. So now its up to date, i'll try update this thread when I do more things I guess. I need to take a trip to the tyre shop and get an alignment done as well as balance and change the tyres over to the new wheels. My rear also looks like it has a bit too much toe in. Oh, and I still need to install the camo wrap. Thanks!

The correct brake rotors/pads for WGNC34 Series 1/1.5 RB25 non turbo Hi all, TL;DR for all you people who cbf reading lol --------------------------------------------------------------------- Front rotor (Partstop) - DBA914 - Maxima A32/G30 Diameter: 280MM Thickness: 26/24MM Rear rotor (Partstop) - DBA11003 - R32 (Probably 20e 4dr) Diameter: 267MM Thickness: 16/14MM? Front pads (Repco) - D81305RCT Rear pads (Repco) - D81144RCT --------------------------------------------------------------------- There isn't much info on 25DE Neo 4WD stageas as you aussies don't get them, but here across the ditch in NZ we do. So I super struggled with what rotors to get. So i've gone to get new rotors (front and rear). The rears they couldn't help me at all and said they would call a supplier and get back to me. I have a 1998 25DE Series 1.5 stagea. As you do, you go to repco, I gave them my rego, they searched up the car and bought up all of the listings for the DE 4WD and I made sure it was the correct one, they said yup and gave me all the different rotors (all the same in size). The rotor they ended up giving me was a S14 200SX Turbo/300ZX Twin Turbo rotor, I didn't notice what it was for until I tried to fit the caliper over and then looked at the box. So I went back the following day and they confirmed that it was correct for stagea, the only thing I can think of now that could have been the issue is that because mine is a 1998 where they had both S1 and S2 released it was bringing up S2 listings which have bigger brakes at the front (for turbo 4WD anyway) It makes me wonder whether if I suggested a 1996/1997 model it would give the correct rotor size.. almost makes me want to go in and find out. Here is the difference between the incorrect rotor and my old rotor, you can see the height is onl off by 4 or so MM. So I returned the incorrect rotors and got my money back, they were roughly $250 on sale (30% off). Repco provided me with the correct part number DBA914, but they had none in stock. I cant remember how we got to that part number but other than that they couldn't help me any more than that. Although they did have slotted ones at $450 a pair (I obviously declined lol). They then suggested going to Autostop with that part number, luckily Autostop had both in stock for $54.10 each. I then tried my luck and asked if they had rear rotors and to my disbelief they had some that was listed for the stagea and yes, yes they fitted For the fronts, its super easy, i'm sure if you are looking for the parts yourself then you will most likely be doing the brakes so you probably already know how, but, if you dont I highly suggest watching ChrisFix video here on how to do your brakes. The incorrect rotors repco gave me was 30/28, thus being too thick for the caliper and new pads to fit over. Every other dimension was fine, just the thickness was incorrect. The new front rotors fit on perfectly, but the front right was making a clunking noise when I let off the brake pedal, this went away after probably 5 quick brakes. Doing the rear brakes is exactly the same as the front. Just make sure that your hand brake is off and the car wont be able to move before you go trying to hit off the old rotor and could potentially damage the drum brake. If you're lucky like I was, you may have screw holes where you can screw a screw in which helps remove the rotor if its rusted on like mine were lol. The new rear rotors do NOT have these screw holes, but the fronts DO. Had the same weird clunking sound coming from the rear right after fitting the new rotors and pads (could have been left as well for front and rear times) but from the drivers seat with the window down it sounded rear right, so while I still had the car in reverse I just went on the brakes/off the brakes about 10 times again and the clunking sound stopped, it did get quiter the more I did it too. So I'm not too sure whats causing that to be honest. I'm unsure of the thickness on the rear rotors, but by the looks of it, if you're asking for this rotor its gonna fit. Right, so, you should be careful when you're going to Repco looking for brake rotors as they don't have correct listings (for me anyway) But if you want 100% certainty go to Partstop as they have both rear and front rotors. So, here are the parts that worked for my stagea. These are also just your standard rotors, not slotted or drilled. Front rotor (Partstop) - DBA914 - Maxima A32/G30 Diameter: 280MM Thickness: 26/24MM Rear rotor (Partstop) - DBA11003 - R32 (Probably 20e 4dr) Diameter: 267MM Thickness: 16/14MM? Front pads (Repco) - D81305RCT Rear pads (Repco) - D1144RCT So hopefully if you're looking this post will pop up and these will be correct for you and save all the hassle of getting wrong items!

Hi All, First time poster so I appreciate your time. NISSA STAGEA WGNC34 RS FOUR S FOR SALE. Year: 2000 Kms: 122000 Location: Sydney - Newtown Colour: Silver Condition: Good New Wheels and Rims. Goes like a dream. Recent service in July. Manual + 4WD. Turbo Timer. Not really sure what it's worth so happy to take offers, but from the limited adds I've seen on carsales > $15000 I would think. Thanks everyone.