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Showing results for tags 'wheel bearing'.
Found 6 results
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MODS: I started a topic in General maintenance but, in hindsight, this topic is better suited to this section. If required, please delete/close my thread in "General Maintenance". Before I go on, I'll start by saying yes I have searched and apart from getting some very vague posts, I am yet to find an answer. Ok so the other week I replaced my speedo cable after it snapped, I took the car for a spin and it was all good. Being mainly a weekend car, I drove it the next weekend and noticed a very dull but distinctive knocking noise coming from what seems like under the bonnet or from the suspension (left side if anything). It occurs randomly, but seems as though its in sync with deviations in the road, hence why I think it is related to the suspension. Smooth roads it doesn't occur, bumpy roads its far more noticeable. Since it seemed like the bonnet may be the issue, I check tightened everything with regards to the bonnet (hinges etc.) but to no avail. The sound was still there. So on the weekend just gone, I thought I would do some checks on the car and check tighten all of the suspension to make sure it wasn't anything loose making the knocking noise. I went through the shocks (top and bottom bolts), sway bar chassis mounts, brake caliper bolts, engine cross-member bolts, caster rod bolts pretty much everything i could get to without having to take anything major off. All bolts were tight. Someone suggested that the issue may be a wheel bearing, so I went on about the checks I've seen for a busted wheel bearing. Now here's where it get's interesting: Being lazy, I didnt want to put the wheel back on. So, I pulled on the rotor (with the wheel off) on the right side ( opposite side where noise seems to be coming from) and the rotor didnt move. All good. Went to the left side (side where noise seems to be coming from), and the the rotor will wiggle about up to ~5mm. However, it is only the rotor which is moving, not the hub itself. So after doing this, I decided to put the wheels on and try. Next to no wobble from either wheel. I then checked for tie rod movement. There is very little if any in the rod ends. IIRC, the brake setup is a floating arrangement and there is no fastening mechanism directly between the hub and the rotor other than the wheel studs/nuts. In saying that, the rotors can become "bound" to the hub via heat, dirt etc. That being said, Im unsure why one side is able to be wobbled, and the other not. Furthermore, the wheel bearing from that side does make a very faint metal on metal sound like a bearing is begining to go. But it doesnt seem like this is the issue, as the knocking I'm getting I can't replicated, other than the rotor wobble. Can anyone shed some light/experience as to what they think or have found in the past? Cheers, David
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Before I go on, I'll start by saying yes I have searched and apart from getting some very vague posts, I am yet to find an answer. Ok so the other week I replaced my speedo cable after it snapped, I took the car for a spin and it was all good. Being mainly a weekend car, I drove it the next weekend and noticed a very dull but distinctive knocking noise coming from what seems like under the bonnet or from the suspension (left side if anything). It occurs randomly, but seems as though its in sync with deviations in the road, hence why I think it is related to the suspension. Smooth roads it doesn't occur, bumpy roads its far more noticeable. Since it seemed like the bonnet may be the issue, I check tightened everything with regards to the bonnet (hinges etc.) but to no avail. The sound was still there. So on the weekend just gone, I thought I would do some checks on the car and check tighten all of the suspension to make sure it wasn't anything loose making the knocking noise. I went through the shocks (top and bottom bolts), sway bar chassis mounts, brake caliper bolts, engine cross-member bolts, caster rod bolts pretty much everything i could get to without having to take anything major off. All bolts were tight. Someone suggested that the issue may be a wheel bearing, so I went on about the checks I've seen for a busted wheel bearing. Now here's where it get's interesting: Being lazy, I didnt want to put the wheel back on. So, I pulled on the rotor (with the wheel off) on the right side ( opposite side where noise seems to be coming from) and the rotor didnt move. All good. Went to the left side (side where noise seems to be coming from), and the the rotor will wiggle about up to ~5mm. However, it is only the rotor which is moving, not the hub itself. So after doing this, I decided to put the wheels on and try. Next to no wobble from either wheel. I then checked for tie rod movement. There is very little if any in the rod ends. IIRC, the brake setup is a floating arrangement and there is no fastening mechanism directly between the hub and the rotor other than the wheel studs/nuts. In saying that, the rotors can become "bound" to the hub via heat, dirt etc. That being said, Im unsure why one side is able to be wobbled, and the other not. Furthermore, the wheel bearing from that side does make a very faint metal on metal sound like a bearing is begining to go. But it doesnt seem like this is the issue, as the knocking I'm getting I can't replicated, other than the rotor wobble. Can anyone shed some light/experience as to what they think or have found in the past? Cheers, David
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I'm needing to replace a wheel bearing but am a little confused by these two options, i was hoping someone could explain it to me. http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/nissan-wheel-bearing-rear-lhs-genuine-nissan-300zx-z32-skyline-r32-gtr-gts4-gtr-r34-gtr-p-1262.html or the one listed here http://www.alliedbearings.com.au/datasheets/nissan/wheel-bearing-kits#vehicle_make_1303 am i right in thinking the more expensive kit (top one) already has the bearings pressed into the housing so easier to swap over for a diy job, whereas the bottom option is just the bearings themselves so would be more labour involved, and a big press. which one is the go? thanks
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Just picked up my Skyline this week. 2004 6MT Coupe. Apart from the noises I'm about to attempt to describe, it goes hard and I'm very impressed! For its age, it's aesthetics and performance are phenomenal, and the exhaust note is ridiculous, I'm not 100% if it's stock, sounds like a subaru at low speed and then opens up to a higher octave roar . Wish I had bought this before buying my Holden SV6. Noise #1. Whirring-Propeller like noise. (rear) It occurs in tandem with the speed of the car. Emitting from the rear. Faster I go the louder it "whirs", kind of like the sound of a high speed fan makes. Isn't affected by gear change, I coasted in neutral for a bit and it still whirred. After a bit of research, I've narrowed it to potentially being: The tyres, the wheel bearings, or the rear differential. Anyone else had a similar occurrence? Noise #2. Squeaking on left turn. (frontish?) When I turn left, some times right, it will squeak like I am applying the brakes (the noise that is), it'll keep squeaking when I straighten up, until I increase the speed, then it disappears. New brake pads? or something worse? Any help will be much appreciated! I will definitely be taking it to a mechanic on a day off and have everything inspected, but I'd like to go in with a bit of an idea as to the problem. Just figured there may be a simple fix to a known issue that a mechanic unfamiliar with the car may not know. Thanks again. -
2006/7 Nissan Skyline PV36 Sedan Hub/Wheel Bearing Needing to replace my hub bearing as the noise is really getting to me... Does anyone have the part number for the front hub bearing? Does anyone have a price or know where to buy it from, other than Nissan? -
Hi all. Does anyone know if the oil seals that come with replacement front wheel bearing kits go into the bearing assemby or do they fit into the hub/knuckle itself? Have searched with no luck.
