Search the Community

Hey guys just wondering if I can get some clarification on this refrigerant pressure sensor wiring. I bought a 3 pin pigtail to wire in a refrigerant pressure sensor and I just want to make sure I'm reading the schematic and connecting it properly. My ECU doesn't have anything in pin 57 so I put a pin in and ran it to the WHITE wire on the pigtail. Then pin 48 to the BLUE wire and connected the GREEN wire to ground. After doing this I went for a drive and my CEL came on. The car also had jumpy acceleration. Since pin 48 is also the power source for the throttle position sensor I'm wondering if I messed up or reversed the wiring somehow. Any help is appreciated, thanks!

Hey all. Had a bit of a scare today with my R34 GTT when i flicked on the tail/parker lights, and some wiring started going up in smoke under the dash. The fuse didnt blow, it just melted the casing of the fuse so must have been a crap fuse? Previous owner did alot of wiring, some of which is quite sub par and the fuse that melted was definitely newer than the other ones that were in the fuse box, but didnt seem that he touched the wires that mainly got melted. Anyway may need a small section of a new loom, is there lots of similarities between the turbo and non turbo looms especially for under the dash stuff? The wired that got friend go into a 6 pin relay under the dash. The non turbo ones are less than half the price here from a wrecker and all i would need it the section that got fried and any other wires that are affected. Thanks in advance

Hello everyone! After years of driving my car, I recently decided to pay attention to my voltage gauge and saw I was only getting 12.5-13v of charge. the alternator charge stud: 14.6V L terminal on the plug: 10.9-11.3V Exciter wire: 10.9-11.3v Whenever I disconnect the charge wire from the battery, the voltage on the exciter wire goes to 12.5-13v and the charge wires shows 14.6v… I don’t get it. As soon as the charge wire is connected to the battery, the exciter voltage drops to 10.9ish volts. The current exciter wiring is weird, as it goes into a relay… I don’t remember why I did that. I’m thinking of changing the wiring to this here: Would this work? thank you, eric

Hello all. I am trying to install a Viper 5706V into my GTT and everything is working except for the remote start. I am struggling to figure out the pinout of the ignition barrel. It seems that there is 2 starter pins (White, and White/Red) and only 1 ignition pin (Black/Red) HELP. Everywhere I look online and in all of the documentation on the alarm. It says there should be 2 ignitions. What am I missing here. If any other R34 Owners have one of these systems installed with the remote start. Would you be able to send your wiring diagram. (How you have it installed) The Viper one is horribly worded and is making life a pain. -T3

Currently have my engine out for a rebuild, and doing some other works on the rest of the car while it sits, like taking the steering wheel off to replace the clock spring and removing the wiring and button the previous owner wired in to the dash to make the horn work. My dash lights like the ABS, AIR BAG, HICAS, etc that come on when you turn accessories on as well as the climate control unit stay on when the ignition is off and key is taken out. Unfortunately Im not sure if this was happening before i pulled the steering wheel off and replaced the clock spring. Is this likely just something with the wiring that will be sorted when the engine is back in and everything wired up? Or could it be something from the wiring under the dash with the ignition? Thanks in advance

Hi all. I'm currently wiring up a Haltech E6X to my 1988 R31 TI. The last two wires I need to connect are the CAS trigger and home wires. I cannot for the life of me find anywhere stating which one is which. You can see pin 17 and pin 8 are the two that I need to distinguish. Thanks in advance

Anyone know the colors of the wires going to the washer motor for the front window? Previous owner of my car have messed with the wirings and also moved it to opposite side in the engine bay and i need to get it to work properly else it wont get approved. Its a Skyline R34GTT

Anyone have a lead on what wires on the R32 fuel pump plug are what. The R32 fuel pump plug is a 6 pole 5 wire plug whereas the R34...well that's just it, I don't know. Backstory, I gutted my R32 chassis and engine harnesses and ran an R34 chassis harness with the intention of running the fuel pump on the R34 connections, low and behold someone snipped the connectors to the fuel pump so now I'm stuck with my dick in my hand trying to sort out what's what. The chassis harness came out of a 4 door GTT, I'm anticipating the R34 dash, instrument cluster and other parts to arrive shortly so I can start doing the swap. My plan (assuming that I'm correct) is to just pop out wires and repin the blue R32 fuel pump plug. From what I am guessing, the R34 fuel pump has two plugs that go to it, a 2 pin and a 4 pin. I could be entirely wrong. Unfortunately I haven't been able to find any pictures close up of anyone's R34 fuel pump assembly with the wires. Even so there's still a few plugs missing on the harness that I need to sort out. Anyone with an R34 could be really helpful right now to decipher what's what.

Hi there I own a 1990 R32 GTS Skyline manual converted and I’ve +T’d it. Ioriginally got it with a blown 25 and I’ve thrown in an old 20 all seems to fit alright so far apart from the trans. However when I connect the battery it instantly starts cranking but will not start, without any keys in the ignition. Any thoughts on what it might be from? also anyone know what this wire is? It’s a positive energy wire but should it be connected to something? cheers Joe

I have a Clarion Radio/Cassette in an Aus delivered GTR. It was fitted by Nissan Australia as OEM in 1992. Part Number PN9325I. I'm looking for a schematic for the radio as it has an internal problem. Tried Clarion in Aus and Japan. Drawing is of pin specs looking at the back of the radio. Any advise appreciated. Radio pin ins..pdf

OK need some help gurus so riped everything out of my r34 and put in my Chrysler as 34 going ls track but ive ran into a problem runs drives great but I cant get speedo working r34 loom dashcluster the lot in so the wires from r33 elec box speedo White and orange where do they go gbox cluster then ecu? Seems I've cut something or not plugged in somthing so I've managed to get speed hooked up to my power FC controller but it won't work in cluster or go through cluster speed input to speed output for ecu only works with wire straight from gear box to ecu speed signal any ideas? Is it just one of the box wires that goes to cluster pin 19 or? Not sure what ive done wrong it was all working n my r34 witch was auto na then converted to Manuel det with original loom but when I put in the Chrysler only lot I really cut was all the wiring going down the center of car n heater n clock etc but just want to direct wire it to speedometer please help me haha

so i got a AEM boost and oil temp gauge, can i use the old stock gauge wiring to wire in my new gauges

hey all. been trynna tidy up some sketchy mods so kindly left hidden by the previous owner like Easter eggs inside my baby. since ive had the car ive had no working horn. the steering wheel is after market and the boss kit seems to have no brand name on it at all. as far as i can tell the hicas is hooked up well enough (when i take out the hicas fuse the car's steering goes floaty, so it must be working, right?) but no wires had been fed through the boss kit to to horn button. i must note that the boss kit has quite a solid body so i cant see through it like some of the framed ones. it just seems to to sit over a thin black plastic plate(?) and connects into the box which holds the indicator and wiper stalks. my two main issues are this... i can not find the horn wire and am struggling to find a straight-forward answer to which colored wire is the horns and where it either comes from or goes to. being a previously molested car, the wiring behind the wheel and in the footwell have seen better days and in some spots it seems wires have been cut and soldered back onto themselves.. ive been tinkiering with the green and red striped wire that has had one end soldered back to either itself or a ground wire, and am starting to think its been hardwired off out of convenience when the boss kit was installed. but if its not the horn wire then im wasting my time. ive tried to look at pics of the column after the wheels been removed to try and find clues of what plugs and wires need my attention, but it all looks different because mine is all covered up by the boss kit which leads me to my second problem, i cant remove the boss for the life of me. and because i cant get a good look between the kit and the column, i cant tell which parts im supposed to pull and which parts im not. i dont wanna keep trying to tug if the boss kit is hardwired on(if that's a thing) and im also kinda scared that all my pulling and prying might damage that yellow round thing that's exposed when the wheel's off (seen it in pics and have been told its important and not to funk with it)... but since i cant remove or look past my boss kit, im not sure what side of the stalks it's on.. from my perspective it looks like the thin plastic plate between the stalks and the boss kit are apart of the boss kit that needs removing but im pretty sure the boss kit should be solid metal, and all that is plastic stays on the car. the thin plastic plate looks like it wiggles and doest quite sit flush in either direction. if anyone has any advice on how to identify the horn wire after some mild molestation, or any info on different boss kits that might shine light on mine (hardwired or cheapo brands with strange plastic bits?) or if someone has any pics of what the column and wires would look like stock so i can work backwards from the molestation. or even if someone has a side on pic of an installed boss kit so i can see what it consists of when attached and what parts should and shouldnt move when trying to remove the boss kit. a wiring diagram would also be helpful. sorry about the big write up over something small but i feel like it should be easier than this, and its only being made harder by a stubborn boss kit that cant be moved or looked past. it just looks so very different from other boss kits, it doesn't even appear to have anywhere to feed the wires through unless you cut the clips and feed through the small gap between the boss and thin plastic plate, which is a good solution but dosnt seem like the original intention. thanks in advance for any help that may come my way. my car is a 93 r33 gts25t s1. i have poor internet connection and no working camera on my phone so i may be slow to reply but please bare with me, and i'll find a way to take photos and upload them as needed.

Like the title says, ISO wiring diagram for the A/T R32 4 speed. I can't seem to find one anywhere. Since I can't find the harness, I'm going to see if I can just snip some connectors off of my old chassis harness and re-pin them for the various wires. If anyone's got a lead on the diagram that'd be amazing. Also, can someone throw up a picture of their fuse box? There's 4 plugs on the side for the autos, I want to see what plugs go where. I'm assuming 3 plugs are for the transmission inputs since there's 3 sets of wires, the other plug I'm assuming is either alternator or something else? Thanks!

Hi all. I have bought a wideband. Bosch 0 258 007 200. Its a 5 wire wideband, does anyone know how to wire it into a haltech pro plug in? Thought it would just be a signal, power and ground?? Any help would be great

Hello, Does anyone know the type of male/female connectors that connect the series 1/2 headlight assembly?

Hi, I've been searching with no luck around the web, I'm trying to find out pinouts on the f3 plug for an engine conversion if anyone can have a look or trace the ecu plug to the f3 plug just need vss speed/ revs/mil / dash temp and ignition might aswell put fuel pump for future reference for others just doing a engine conversion sold the main engine loom with the engine I am pretty sure yellow/green is speed and yellow/red is rpm not sure on mil light or temp any help would be wonderful thanks

Hi people, I'm looking for an r33 gtr hicas wiring harness/ plugs and hicas motor relay to do an electronic hicas conversion on my r32 gtr. I have tried all of the skyline/jap spares and wreckers I could find and haven't had any luck, if anyone on here knows where I might be able to get one or has one, it would make the project a lot easier and make it a lot neater. I have everything else ( r33 gtr hicas ECU, yaw sensor, rack assembly, clock spring and a good set of wiring diagrams which I have already cross referenced to the r32 diagram to make it work). Any info or help would be appreciated. Thanks ?

Hey guys, currently going though converting my 25gt 34 to a gtt. Before anyone says it’s not worth it, it is to me cause I’ve basically build that car and brought it back to life and it looks like a 03CDCE67-5BB2-446A-A4A3-694E82955E33.MOV beast but just needs to go faster lol. Now I have an s2 rb25det neo sitting there waiting to drop but I need a loom and ecu. Ecu is covered but I need a loom to suit the engine going in. Is there a difference between an s1 r34 loom and s2? I have an s1 ready to go but don’t know if it will be compatible with my s2 motor. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Jake

Hey guys, been trawling through every forum trying to find diagrams and pictures to help with wiring an auto to manual conversion for my R34 GTT. Have done everything apart from wiring. I have read a thread but had no pictures. Think I've done all the gearbox wiring correctly, however, struggling to find the inhibitor switch. Anyone who's done this should be able to help me? Some are saying inhibitor switch is by the fuse box but still unsure? Thanks in advance.

good day old chums so, if like me, you're running a few accessories like EBC, datalogger, knocklight, AFC, they will need tapping into signals like rpm and throttle, etc, off the ecu. Query is, if you run multiple taps into the ecu's rpm wire for example, does the signal strength weaken as it's run off to multiple sources, or will the ecu wire and all associated devices get a full strength signal? thank u

HELP! I've spent the past week trying to nut this shit out, but I'm getting no where. To skip over a lot of details and cut RIGHT to the chase. I am trying to complete my stereo install on my 1989 R31 GXE. I have re-run speaker wiring to doors/parcel shelf etc. I cannot for the LIFE of me (Without fear frying my head-unit) figure out which is 12V constant. And Which is 12v Accessories/Ignition. After looking on multiple pages/sites/forums, I now know that BLUE/BLACK are the Accessories/Ignition & WHITE/GREEN is 12V Constant. However, I have 2 white/green and 2 black/blue wires: Also I was told investing in a Voltage Tester would help. I have uploaded a picture of the one I have which works on 240V accessories but will not register ANY current on any of the wires on my car. Is this perhaps due to the type of Tester I have, as it doesn't have a "ground lead"? So ultimately, buying the tester has gotten me no further along with something that should be so simple. If anyone at ALL can help me with nutting out these last 2 wires, it'd mean the world.

HELP! I've spent the past week trying to nut this shit out, but I'm getting no where. To skip over a lot of details and cut RIGHT to the chase. I am trying to complete my stereo install on my 1989 R31 GXE. I have re-run speaker wiring to doors/parcel shelf etc. I cannot for the LIFE of me (Without fear frying my head-unit) figure out which is 12V constant. And Which is 12v Accessories/Ignition. After looking on multiple pages/sites/forums, I now know that BLUE/BLACK are the Accessories/Ignition & WHITE/GREEN is 12V Constant. However, I have 2 white/green and 2 black/blue wires: Also I was told investing in a Voltage Tester would help. I have uploaded a picture of the one I have which works on 240V accessories but will not register ANY current on any of the wires on my car. Is this perhaps due to the type of Tester I have, as it doesn't have a "ground lead"? So ultimately, buying the tester has gotten me no further along with something that should be so simple. If anyone at ALL can help me with nutting out these last 2 wires, it'd mean the world.

Attached is an Excel document which I painstakingly put together by hand, as I found some R34 GTT diagrams out on the internet either completely unavailable (bodyloom/m53/f3 plug) or unreliable (ecu pinouts) Ive sacrificed an entire engine loom to get this mapped out correctly and Ive taken the liberty to add in all wire colours. The first worksheet in the document is of what I call the 'body loom' plug or 'M53' or 'F3' plug if you are familiar with other Nissan looms. This takes all input/output from the ecu to non-engine related things. In the case of the R34 this is things like the auto trans control, traction control, dashboard outputs and inputs and power/switch feeds and triggers. I required a pinout of this plug as when going a full wire-in aftermarket ECU, many of your connections will be made at this plug. Nowhere on the internet could I find a correct pinout of one of these for an R34 GTT. The second worksheet in the document is a standard ER34 (auto) ECU pinout, with all pins labelled as to their function and also the wire colour. Enjoy, I hope this helps anyone who needs it. R34Pinouts_Final.xlsx

I have known for a long time that my 4wd doesn't work. with the ignition on and trying to do the attesa bleeding procedure my pump will not ever come on. i have 2 issues i believe, firstly, my pump has siezed up and i know this because i have bypassed the big relay in the boot and can not get the pump to start even whacking it the same way that frees up a fuel pump usually whilst bypassing the relay and giving the pump power. but i believe it has siezed because the ecu is not ever closing the relay. i have tested the relay on the battery and it is very noisy when it clicks closed. i can not hear the relay click closed when the ignition is turned to on which i have heard many other r32 gtr 4wd systems prime the pump every ignition cycle. i'm not getting any codes unless i induce a fault like unplugging the pump or a relay, so my ecu believes all is well and my front torque guage is operating correctly. my theory, my attesa ecu or wiring loom is stuffed and therefore the relay never closes and my pump is never getting used and that's why it has siezed up. any opinions would help. i should try another ecu and see if it closes the terminals on the relay and when all else is working well i should replace the pump, right?