Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all....

with fuel prices etc etc i wanted to start a thread on how to LOWER consumption....

My car has a few mods and in the city it is ok with maybe 300-350km to a tank (half thrash half baby) but highway only gets me like 400-430km from a tank... now im hoping that his figure should be ALOT better.....

Now to drop consumption ive been staying off boost etc but its not enough.... im thinking for a long haul to change the chip back to stock as i think the one thats in it pumps alot of petrol in at about the 3000rpm mark to boost it quicker and therefore 100kmh=3000rpm isnt good!

also im thinking of winding boost down a bit but dunno if this will make a diference....

how many highway kms do you lot get and can you give me any pointers to make consumption lower......

btw ive only got a RB20 :(

thanks

Ed

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/100003-better-highway-consumption/
Share on other sites

On Monday of this week I did:

400km highway driving (100-110km/h)

75km country driving (80-100km/h)

75km of very hard driving (showing my cousins the new toy)

I still had 1/4 tank left, so I could have easily got another 80-100km out of it totalling 650km all up.

I'm very happy with the economy of my gtr (but then you'd expect that with a $1200 tune).

I was at 420km when I filled up (just under a 1/4 tank to go), so I don't have any reason to doubt I would have reached at least 480km. Probably 250km in highway, the rest city and around the 'burbs kind of driving. Couldn't get up mine too much cause my missfiring was really bad, but thats all sorted now :) R32 with all the add ons + r33 turbo.

To get better fuel economy u can do basic things like don't use aircon as much, keep car aerodynamic - windows up, (remove rear wing). Cruise at a lower speed lowers drag on the car (like 100km in a 110km/h zone), and just drive smoothly - i.e., don't race to the limit and pick the tallest gear possible when driving.

Fixxxer :D

My Rb20DET running 1 bar making 164rwkw used to get 470km's around town not babying it, driving it hard or soft didn't appear to make much difference to fuel consumption. Average was 470km's.

On the open road I once saw 600km's, I was booting it quite a bit so it 'may' have got better if I drove it off boost.

The RB30DET which has its boost in by 2000rpm see's ~430km's to a tank using the stock pfc base map its making some where around 200rwkw.

Open road.. Unsure haven't taken it for an open road drive. :P

I am dropping a 3.9:1 diff ratio in to it so this will definitely see an improvement in fuel consumption. Especially on the open road.

The R32 @ 100km/h revs at 2782rpm. The tacho and speedo are slightly out. This is going by the pfc h/c.

A 3.9:1 will see 2487rpm @ 100km/h.

Edited by Cubes

what do people mean by tank? this always frustrates me.

when i say tank i mean 50L

this is when the light starts to flash, the gauge shows definetly empty and there is 15L left in an r33.

when i fill up i work out my consumption exactly by comparing kms and litres gone into the tank (i usually fill all the way)

anyway on the freeway i have done many 1000kms, and always got between 9.5-10L/100km.

My fuel economy can be pretty ordinary in stop & go driving around town (approx. 450km to a tank), but over christmas i did a bit of a road trip to NSW and after 421km filled up the tank with 42.6L.

Very close to 10L/100km, which I was pretty happy with. Car stayed at high boost (0.8 bar), runs PFC, full zaust, a/m fuel pump front mount etc.

Says a lot for having a good tune I reckon.

My opinions only .

Its been said that turbos sized to "spool" at just above highway cruise ie 100-110 generally give good open road consumption as boost , with extra fueling and retarded timing , is not needed . GTST's and GTS25T's were sized to boost in the lets get the thing rolling phase and when at highway cruise revs/load its difficult to keep them out of boost . I suspect the kind of use these cars had in Japan was crawling round the burbs with millions of other cars , average speeds were low and low speed torque was needed .

For Austalian conditions you could probably get away with the next size up turbine housing and maybe even the next taller final drive ratio . This should help to load the engine and turbo and be less fussy in the low mid range .

From what I read the Nissan ECU's are very quick to go rich/retard and hold off detonation . Now that we are getting better pump fuels and an easier say in the tune (ie PFC) you can retune for torque and crisp throttle response which means not filthy rich 10:1 mixtures and better timing numbers . My theory only but the next size up turbine housing will give less boost at low revs but the potential to advance the timing up a little should pull up the bottom end , and lets face it lowish CR engines need all the help they can get . Uncorking the turbo also benefits us more when on boost and helps reduce the thermal load on the engine which itself helps reduce the onset of detonation .

With my engine build I hope to keep the CR around 9:1 which makes for better part throttle torque (raised dynamic compression) a little more than std lift and the GTR head/inlet to have minimal inlet restriction (volumetric efficiency) . Turbo ? This will be the last part of the picture because technology is constantly updating , prices usually fall and there are some new things on the way next year .

My thoughts only , cheers A .

will a full 3" exhaust system help at all or just use more fuel?

im running a stocko r33 gts-t and get bout 450 to a tank. :D

exhaust upgrade = less back pressure = more efficiency

more efficiency = better fuel economy

same with freeing up the intake of restriction.

Crikey... I get 350k's to a 50L fill in my stock R33GTST... highway or not. O2 replaced (as seen in the 02 thread).

I'm still hunting for a good reason why my economy is so poor... no smoke, new plugs, new O2 sensor... car runs smmoooooth.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Coming home late at night and driving past the police is the only reason i need one haha And yeh, definitley needs a switch to quickly enable it, dont have time to be getting my phone, opening an app, waiting for it to update etc before being able to make the change
    • Because it is financially convenient for them lol. Why wouldn't they want to give you the lowest possible valuation for your car?
    • Yep. @Duncan also shannons they will rip you dry and will be probably limited on how much you can drive. Also keep in mind that you always have to have it garaged with Shannons, with enthusiasts as per their PDS you can have it 2 times per week on the driveway for example. 
    • I had a generic 4" Varex rear box on my old V8, worked a treat for sneaking home late at night, it was as quite as stock when closed The car was "fairly" loud when open as it consisted of 1" 7/8 headers to 3" catted Y pipe, to 4" single, it did have a resonator in the mid pipe and only the Varex out the back I also hard wired in a Varex dash mount switch, as the key fob thing is a pain to use when driving I wouldn't recommend giving the beans when it is closed though as it creates a large restriction in the exhaust  It also can in very handy when pulled over for "random" breath tests or just cruising past the constabulary   
    • Here is the before and after of the scraping/sanding of the IC pads on the tachometer board for the fix mentioned in this thread. And yes it worked fine after. Just a note if you change any components on the board the tach calibration can be wrong showing the wrong idle etc...only problem is once it is installed back in the cluster you can't get to it to adjust...ouch! My fix was to cut out the calibration pot (the blue one) from the board and run it with two wires to the fuse panel under the dash where I could adjust the idle calibration once everything was installed. And yes I soldered everything up again including the half soldered components either side of the IC in my photos                                
×
×
  • Create New...