Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Oh ok cool.

Nah, its not illegal to own and drive a GTR in QLD. No power restrictions or anything here -- yet!

Mayswell get in before they try and bring the laws in! :(

GTR soon enough! As soon as I fix up my VLT (Blown head gasket and cracked head....... ) Friend is helping me repair it, so should be fixed in a week, hopefully sold in 1 or 2 more.. and then the search begins! :(

Be careful of companies that offer cheap preimums, they will fix your car with second hand parts. On top of that your repair quote will be put online and every dodgy shop on your insurers repair list will bid for the job. If i havent spelt it out enough, your car will be repaired as cheaply as possible.

On the other hand, another insurance company, like shannons, will charge you a more expensive premium BUT you will get the choice of repairer! Your car will also be repaired with new parts, you are also more likely to get a realistic value for you car if its had alot spent on it.

For example with a cheaper premium company, they will only do basically what a stock one is worth, say 18k. With someone like shannons they will do you for say 25k, this is cruicial once you take into account the excess and so on that you will need to minus from what your car is insured for should it be written off.

Edited by 26GTS
There is a clause in most insurance policies stating that you are insured as long as it is legal and roadworthy.

Driving a GTR, let alone a modified one, is illegal at aged 19 (in most states anyway).  They will still take you insurance payments, but if you have an accident they may decide to not pay you, as you where driving the car illegally.

Just something to consider...........

I called them a few months ago to see if I could swap my 3rd party insurance from my V8 to my new Skyline. The swap was direct, no more to pay. I'm 24, and i've been waiting for the magic 25 before getting full-comp, but I thought i'd ask how much just incase it had come down from the $3500 quote I was given 2 years ago.

The guy told me that they don't go age-based anymore, but rather "how many years accident-free" that you've been driving. So they quoted me $1901 or something... and i've got just under 2 months till my bday.

Now... Just Car also offer no claim for every year you've had 3rd party with them, so i'd be straight in at 60% NCB. (been with them for 3 years on 3rd party, no accident for 6 years... stupid P-plate thing I did on my 2nd week of driving)

JustCar just keeps getting better!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, hydraulic lifters will get noisy if they are dirty/fouled in some way, and exactly how that manifests will depend on exactly what schmutz is where. There is a procedure on here somewhere for dismantling and soaking/cleaning them. Replacing them with new is about 50% of the work and about 5% of the money!
    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
    • This seems problematic and unlikely at the same time. Vanilla RB2Xs have hydraulic lifters. They do have "zero" clearance, but only when running with oil pressure inside them. When not running, you should be able to compress them and obtain heaps of clearance. RB26s and Neos have solid lifters. They should have ~0.3mm and ~0.5mm on the inlet and exhaust respectively. If they have zero clearance then bad things are happening. With nothing else being wrong, it would mean that the valves would be held slightly (ever so slightly) open when they are supposed to be closed and it should have all sorts of problems when running, caused by leakage in/out through the valves. Or, zero clearance can indicate severe valve seat recession. None of it is good. Have you used a piece of hose as a stethoscope to try to localise the noise?  
    • Sorry for reviving an old post, but I'm having the same hot idle tick issue. Did anyone ever find out what it was?  I have checked/ replaced Injectors Coils checked Lifter clerance (is at zero) Checked Cam lobes Replaced exhaust gasket and studs Would appreciate any advice this is driving me nuts  
    • There's a huge reason manufacturers are tuning in dead flat torque curves... Make them reliable (and more drive able)
×
×
  • Create New...