Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

RAW out of the camera, converted using DPP into 8 bit tiff, then edited in photoshop.

I also used noise ninja for the first time.

(2nd pic didn't have the noise ninja filter applied)

I used the unsharp mask. But it just made it look really bad.

So I decreased the unsharp mask a bit, and reposted the pic.

Tried a few more things, and reposted, and didn't look any better.

Tried something else (another filter) and it made it look an anime cartoon. So I decreased that filter a little and used the burn tool to make the wall in the background look a bit more "dirty anime".

Then I softened the edges of the water, softened and lightened, also to increase that drawn on look.

I don't know. I still don't like it. But eh, it's all a learning process.

The picture you see now on both ap and here is the 4th edit I've done.

I have a feeling that the extra softness in the first pic might be due to noise ninja. But then again, all my fricken shots are turning out soft.

My mate is going to bring around his kit lens later. I'll take some shots with that and see if it's any different.

To be honest I'm sick of the kit lens. I might just go out and buy a 50mm f1.4 prime and use that as a replacement to the kit lens.

I love my kit lens, probably the most versatile lens ever, I regret selling it, but oh well.

You can't use a 50mm prime as a replacement, it's just not the same, get a Tamrom 28-75, or if you want to spend a bit more money, 16-35L or 17-40L wouldn't go astray either. The 17-85 IS is a good replacement for the kit lens as well.

Noise ninja is probably the reason it's so soft, what ISO were you using? If you stay below 800, the 300d is usually pretty good with noise.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
    • Should have taken that opportunity to slot in a twin scroll turbo setup. Maybe next time.
×
×
  • Create New...