My First Skyline's guide to changing your oil and oil filter in an R33.

[jezzerrr]

some of you guys should be shot

1 DO NOT EVER AND I MEAN EVER OVERFILL YOUR CAR WITH OIL

your pistons dip in and the engine gets too compressed and blows all the seals

2 only use a synth or semi synth oil factory is 7.5/30 so a 10/40 will be perfect

3 only replace the sump plug if u really need to

4 you dont need to jack the car up

5 the r32 rb20det takes 4ltrs or 4.2ltrs with a new filter

6 always check ya fluid levels every week or 2 otherwise your engine is toast if something gos wrong

7 if u dont know what your doing  and u hardly know how to do an oil change then get a workshop manual or  TAKE IT TO A MECHANIC

8 when u get a new car change the oil ASAP because mechanics put in cheapo 20w50 valvoline xld mineral oil and it makes the car run like a pig (trust me)

9 change all fluids anyway because they either have never been changed or u dont know when they were changed last  because with my car

as soon as i got it i changed oil/diff oil/coolant

and i will do the auto tranny fluid at 100thou as it sposedly NEVER  needs changing and ill do the brake fluid soon

the oil ive used so far is

motor = 10w40 pennzoil semi synth and now 10-30 shell helix eco10

diff = castrol lsx90 (best mineral oil just change it every 20thou and its as good as a synth)

coolant = tecalloy gold

auto tranny = will be nissan d matic because all oil manufacturers state that to be used

brakes = some dot4/dot5 oil its all the same basicall shell/castrol/mobil

as i said at the start

some of u should be shot for neglecting your car like this!

Dot 4 and Dot 5 are not the same!!!! dot 4 is glycol based, dot 5 is synthetic!

If you put dot 5 in a dot 4 system, unless it specifically says on the bottle that it is compatible with dot 4, you will have to replace every rubber component in your brake system, ie seals, hoses, etc, as dot 5 will react with the dot 4 absorbed in the rubber.

Go the safe way, replace like with like!

[Sciby]

Wow, I never noticed that long, rambling, spit-flying rant from Scarifier.

At least he's passionate, I guess.

[DivHunter]

I know this is real old but still a great tute.

Changed the oil today no hicups

Thought I would mention a great funnel for getting the oil in is half a 2L softdrink bottle, works a charm and you don't even need to hold it because it fits so well.

[chrissso]

Hey Anyone,

I got some Shell Helix ultra fully (sik) synthetic 5w-40.

And a valvoline filter.

There was some semi-synth 10w-30 - but this ^^ looked better.

Is this stuff going to be ok.

Can someone tell me so I can return it if it's not good?

Thanks

[d00dz]

This should be in the DIY threads:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...hp?showforum=57

Good tut!

[Gts25Tom]

Oh, and old oil is a proven carcinogenic, so avoid putting your hands in it. *cough*

Oh s**t really? I'm a bit worried now about the 40'000 oil changes I did as an apprentice at roys auto care.

[steveo_r33]

reload the pics!

[ak_stylez]

reload the pics!

I second that!

also, most people on this forum suggest 10w40 is the best oil for an rb25, but my mechanic and autobarn suggested i use 15w50, as my engines done 100k clicks.

so, is Motul 4100 Power 15w50 any good? Or should i stick with 4100 Turbolight 10w40?

[D3RV]

reload the pics!

Yeah would be great for these pics to be reloaded =D

[DjeMz]

question, where to drain the oil?

[madbung]

I've found a rag very useful to wipe down the dipstick when checking my oil level.

Oddly natural fibres such as cotton or pure wool seem to out perform the synthetics in this case....kekekeke

[maximuk]

very handy article but where all the pics ? ... and people recommend to change a washer everytime you change oil too.

Edited February 22, 2008 by maximuk

[DjeMz]

very handy article but where all the pics ? ... and people recommend to change a washer everytime you change oil too.

wat size is the washer n where to get one cheap?

[NA_Goodness]

very handy article but where all the pics ? ... and people recommend to change a washer everytime you change oil too.

Agreed, change your sump plug washer EVERY time you change your oil, just like your oil filter.

The washer is 12mm Internal diametre, 18mm external diameter and made of copper. I bought a pack of 25 from Repco for $12.00, but you can get them from Auto 1 by themselves, but costs over $2, sp if you're going to be changing your oil alot, get the large pack.

Yeh, and don't over tighten your sump plug either. It can rip your thread from your sump, and taking off a sump is not fun. Trust me!!!

[taz2008]

hi im gonna do the oil change today..just wanted to confirm something first

is this the cover i need to get rid off to get access to the filter?

and this is the sumpplug right?

cheers

[SkyKC]

hi im gonna do the oil change today..just wanted to confirm something first

is this the cover i need to get rid off to get access to the filter?

and this is the sumpplug right?

cheers

Yea thats the sum plug for sure, You dont need to remove that cover to change oil filter, I could remove mine from engine bay, from top, not from underneath the car, and no need for a oil wrench either, in my case there were no room for a oil wrench anyway.

[SS8_Gohan]

also, most people on this forum suggest 10w40 is the best oil for an rb25, but my mechanic and autobarn suggested i use 15w50, as my engines done 100k clicks.

10w40 is not the best for an RB25, probably is no BEST but you'd want something more 0w/5w.... mechanic & autobarn = trunk monkeys, 15w50 is WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY too thick and that is the thinking of cars produced in the stone age...

0w-5w is where you should start. We all know most wear occurs at startup or cold, when the oil is..... everyone? that's right... THICK (relatively speaking) it has not reached operating temp and not even 0w is THIN enough at startup to completely prevent wear. So if the crucial time to protect (besides track work) is when the car is cold/startup, and the only way to do that is having a lower weight/viscosity (don't know correct term) why in hell would you run 15w???? Autonutbarn are the same people who told me i couldn't put Transmax Z in my power steering fluid... they don't know jack, NEVER go off what they say.

Onto Synthetics...

Castrol Edge is NOT synth, Shell Helix, is NOT synth, plus a whole heap of other oils marketed here as 'FULL SYNTH'.

Oils come from different base groups, 1 through 5. 4 and 5 being the ONLY fully synth base oils. And only a FEW oils fall in this category. Group 3 is SEMI-sythn BUT a lot of manufacturers claim it's CLOSE ENOUGH to fully synth they reckon it's ok to say it is, which actually, it isn't. Hence Castrol Edge, Helix, all that other bullshit "FULL SYNTHETIC" marketing is complete and utter crap. It's not, it's a semi-synth, not fully man-made and leave it alone.

Pick from some of these

Royal Purple

Castrol Syntec (0w30 only)

Mobil 1 (0w only)

Motul 300v and there are a few other Group 4 based Motuls

Redline is Group 5, great stuff, pricey

etc... there are others, don't know them all...

get it from here...

www.performancelub.com

So basics, full synth is Group 4 base or higher. And go with something low, 0w or 5w.

Right, now... this guide should apply equally to a R34 yes?

[Scadtional]

This is a great write up, but relinking the pics would be handy.

[rtune]

great topic and I have a contribution:

http://www.oilrecycling.gov.au/directory.html

Enter your post code and find out the nearest old oil recycling facility (un-manned).

What other disposal methods are there?

[Howie]

Nice writing style mate.. great guide

Just should mention that Post 10/1998 skylines use the Z443 oil filter not the Z145(a).