My First Skyline's guide to changing your oil and oil filter in an R33.

[JiMb0]

Guys, after our little talk on the washer the other day. What does eveything use ?

Fibre or Copper ? I have both available but fibre just seems to be the way to go. I previuosly had what looks to be a rubber o-ring which has lasted the distance but not sure if I should be using rubber or not due to heat of the sump.

Any ideas ?

[Sciby]

I just did the oil again... and I thought it might be time to change the sump washer, so I bought some fibre ones... anyway, pulled it out, copper washer looked okay, so decided to use that again, and put some of that thin white sealant tape around the thread... so it should be fine.

[JiMb0]

I actually went with a 2 washer approach. Back to back ... Fibre against the sump, Copper against the plug.

I mean you can't go wrong right ?

[Wild33]

i just had my oil changed in my 33, by the 'local mechanic', who change the oil (helix ultra synthetic) and the filter Ryco z145a.

i wasnt really happy when he revved the engine at 3000rpm, via the cable in the engine bay, for 10 seconds, so that he could actually take a second reading, which was on 'full' luckily.

i think that it is bad to rev the engine at 3000rpm, when the oil filter is brand new and had not been primed (oil filled before putting on), because maybe there is a space in time when the oil pressure is low as it is filing up the filter (which at my guess is about 400mL), so therefore perhaps there is limited oil and starvation in the upper cylinders when the pistons are flyn up and down at great rate....but i suppose 3000rpm is not all that high. AM I TOO PARANOID, or does this technique suck????

I only got the mechanic to do the job as my 'warranty book' had to be stamped...otherwise i ll do it myself.

If you want to do something right...do it your self.,, is the saying, (as long as u know what u are doing).

[Sciby]

Nah, you're not being paranoid. He probably does it that way because the quicker it's done, the quicker he can have smoko, or get onto the next job. You're just worrying about the safety of your car, which you paid for, and not the mechanic. Next time, do the oil yourself, let it drain in when you put the first lot in, let it settle, turn on the engine and let it idle until the oil pressure light goes out... then turn it off, top up and then go for a 10 minute drive.

[Wild33]

yeah thanks, i should have done it myself but like i said, the book needed to be stamped. I am sick of taking my car to 'professionals' who always do something to annoy me. Anyway, i know next time.

[Wild33]

here something to think about.... i was at BIG W, comparing Z145A's and i noticed that the Valvoline for 9$ was exactly the same as the $3.95 cheaper brand...forget the name, but was in a black box, bottom shelf.... one of those brands which you never heard of,...

i actually compared the outside casing, the hole size, the way the insides are pressed together, the inside of the filter material, you can see the holes and inside guts when you look in the light...and let me tell you guys...absolutely exact,,,,... made in PRC....peoples republic of china....the only difference was the colour...this cheap one was black.... it's funny becuae i remembered that the valvoline used to be a korean product a few years back when i drove a charade.

anyway, i compared the ryco, and there is nothing like it. In the inside the holes are cut differently, and they are more like 'slits', heaps of them, rather than holes. Cost 12$....

I also looked at a 'cooper' brand, and there is no clones, made in korea, sealed with plastic, looks good too.

anyway, somehting to think about.

[JimX]

I've re-used my copper sump plug gasket a couple of times now. It had a bit of a ridge on it, but i sanded it back with some emery. Starting off with coarse grade and progressing to smoother, and it now looks pretty much brand new. It doesn't leak at all.

I prefer copper, I've had bad experiences with fibre washers. They get worn/chipped with age. Re-using my copper washer wasn't me just being cheap, it was mostly due to the hassle of that I NEVER remember to buy one when I buy oil So it just saves another trip to the shop in someone else's car, assuming I'm doing the change during office hours.

[sinisteR32]

thanks for the instructions funny and useful

[Brody]

We need filter pics!

I did mine, though when putting in the new oil, i expected it to overflow when it had enough. It swallowed all 5 liters, and when putting the old shit back into the bottle, it came to 4.3l...some ppl say 4.5l for an rb20....but hhmm...think i might go check the dipstick.

[Guest RedLineGTR]

they say 4.5lt for most skylines...but remember that their is still oil that is left in the engine...so anything from 4.2-4.4lt should be perfect. If you want it always on full put no more than 4.5 lt

[r32nissan]

where exactly do you spray the degreaser?

[Sciby]

Erm, wherever you don't want the oil to be.

(Ie, don't spray it in the engine... the degreaser is for cleaning up)

[r32nissan]

so minimal residual oil in the engine is safe?

[rickhead]

Oil ???? wots that for ????

[Sciby]

Frying chips!

[r32nissan]

anyone know if Mobil 1 Fully synthetic 5w/50 is okay??

[fwddriftking]

i know this has nothing to do with anything but its tops that over two years on this thread is still right near the first page. Big ups to the Angry Viking

[fwddriftking]

mate if your chasin a sump plug washer just go in to any genuine nissan parts franchise and ask for a p9000 nissan sump plug washer. If they have any idea what they're doing they should know what you mean.

[Sciby]

Fear my oil changes.