Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

All,

Being very new to skylines and also the the SE suburbs, I was wondering if anyone could give me some advice about Window regulators.

The window stopped working (i.e pressing the button doesnt make the window go down), some time ago, and now that its hot outside i wanted to get it fixed.

The last time i had the car serviced the guys told me that it was the regulator that was bust, and that it would cost me approx $200 to get them to fix it. Not having the money at the time, i declined their offer.

My question (s) is, 1) How do i tell if its just the regulator thats RS or if i need the motor replaced as well 2) I have some mechanical skills, so is this a job i can do myself, and finally does anyone know of a reputable place around the SE suburbs where these parts may be available from.

A lot of questions I know, but having looked around this community for a while now, i see that theres always lots of good advice...

cheers

doders

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/100435-drivers-side-windows-regulator/
Share on other sites

Try bringing it directly to an auto mechanic, instead of your normal oil change/dyno tune mechanics. It'll help if you remove the door trim prior to visit so they don't have to charge you the labour to do it. $70 mate's rate last time I fixed mine. public rate? not sure but I reckon around $100-ish.

  • 4 weeks later...

I've also had some trouble with my drivers window. I ended pulling everything apart myself.

This is what was happening: The window just decided to stop working altogether, although when I pressed the up/down button I heard the little click (coming from the box attatched to the door, near the handle). Upon further inspection (and unscrewing the bracket holding the winder motor) I unscrewed the motor and found that it still worked. After some playing around, I found that when the worm gear (the curly bit on the bit in the middle that spins) was pushed in towards the motor, it would cease working. If I pulled it out a bit again it would work. What this means, as far as I can guess, is that when the window is pushed one way (up? -as in window goes down but stops and motor keeps going) the motor stops working until pushed the other way for a bit.

What i found was that sometimes when my window goes all the way down, it doesn't always work, so I have to get my finger and nudge the window a bit to make it work.

One of these days when I have time to spare I'll pull it apart again and see if I can work out a permanent fix. At least I know a temporary one so I don't have to pull the door apart at the supermarket or somewhere public!

I presume it's an electrical contact in the motor, but it would involve a bit of an operation to fix...

Hopefully this might help a bit.

### oh yeah, a word of caution. When getting the bracket that holds the motor unscrewed, you'll have to be supporting the glass well, because when it's loose, the window goes down and the motor goes up. When I was trying to fix mine, it slipped a bit and the motor left a scratch up the inside of my window! beatch! If you do need to get the motor out, I think there are 4 screws you undo from your side, then reach around the back with a phillips head bit secured in pliers or something and undo I think 3 screws on the motor to get it off. There is very little room so I found it possible only after unscrewing the motor bracket.

Good luck!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It still combines inches with mm, especially when you have .5 inches involved, and mm and inches that can go in either direction. This would give a clear idea on both sides of the rim, right away, with no arithmetic. Even better if somebody gives you the dimensions of the arch of multiple cars. i.e GTR may be 125mm, a A80 Supra may be 117mm, or something along those lines. Yes, you can 'know' that going from a 10in rim to a 10.5in rim with the same offset moves both sides about 6mm, but you still have to 'know' that and do the math. Often it's combined. People are going from 9.5 +27 to 10.5 +15. You may do the math to know it, but if it was going from (I had to go look it up to be sure) 241mm/2 - 27 - 93.5mm from the center line to (more math) 266/2 - 15 (118mm) from the center line. Versus 93mm vs 118mm. It's right there. If you know you have a GTT with 100mm guards you can see right away that one is close to flush and the other absolutely won't work. And when someone says "Oh the GTR is 120mm" suddenly you see that the 10.5 +15 is about perfect. (or you go and buy rims with approximately 118mm outward guard space) I think it's safe to say that given one of the most common questions in all modified cars is "How do offsets work" and "How do I know if wheels will fit on my car" that this would be much simpler... Of course, nothing will really change and nobody is going to remanufacture wheels and ditch inches and offset based on this conversation :p We'll all go "18x9+30 will line up pretty close to the guards for a R34 GTT (84mm)" but 'pretty close' is still not really defined (it is now!) and if you really care you still have go measure. Yes it depends on camber and height and dynamic movement, but so do all wheels no matter what you measure it for.
    • But offsets are simple numbers. 8" wheel? Call it 200mm, near enough. +35 offset? OK, so that means the hub face is that far out from the wheel centreline. Which is 2s of mental arithmetic to get to 65mm to outer edge and 135mm to inner. It's hardly any more effort for any other wheel width or offset. As I said, I just close my eyes and can see a picture of the wheel when given the width and offset. That wouldn't help me trust that a marginal fitment would actually go in and clear everything, any more than the supposedly simple numbers you're talking about. I dunno. Maybe I just automatically do numbers.
    • Sure! But you at least have simple numbers instead of 8.5 inches +/mm, relative to your current rims you do maths with as well, and/or compare with OEM diameter, which you also need to know/research/confirm..
    • Uniclutch install vid, RB Track edition.   Highlight reel is very drive able, not noisy but still heavy with the clutch master he has.      
×
×
  • Create New...