My Rb30de

[Maxx]

u can always buy a spare Rb30 bottom end to start with,they are cheap as chip

so yr car don't have to be off the road

[BADR33]

yeah they are cheep as chips. mine cost me $100 but nah iv spent enough on the internals of that motor getting it ballanced, pistons swapped over etc.

the engine place should fix it under warranty due to there screw up and all the oil pissing outa the crank seal. it must have pissed out like 4-4.5ltrs of oil in 10km

im used to not having a car by now. its been like 3 and a half weeks now. whats another week or 2?

as long as i have it back in time for the drags im happy as iv paid the non refundable $$ for it

cold fusion:

the wiring isnt that much hastle. well for me it wasnt too bad. running the loom isnt hard. in my r33 there was 2 or 3 wires that didnt match that stopped the car from starting. an auto sparky should be able to have it sorted for like 400max?

there isnt that much work in having vvt. well i suppose there is. welding up the front oil gallary, runing an external oil feed. thats the main bit of work. im pretty sure thats all detaild in to the rb30 pdf file.

dondesoto has a rb30de running vvt in a r31. have a look at post 8 on page one.

[ColdFusion]

I think the wiring in my case will be more difficult as it will be going into an R31 which probably means most of the wiring is different. Welding the gallery shouldn't be too hard for me, the taps might be a little harder. Will probably need dondesoto's opinion on this.

$100 for the block is really cheap. Didn't know you could get them for that much. Where would you get just the bottom end (block, pistons, rods, crank, sump)? Wreckers? Engine reconditioners?

Thanks for all the help guys.

[BADR33]

i got mine from a wreakers. my $100 was for a short block. i was lucky and i got one with the tubo fittings(incase i ever want to go turbo)

the wiring is workable as proven by dondesoto.

the welding is alloy as you have to weld the head. not the block.

send him a pm to ask further questions about wiring etc. from what i have read he did most the work himself.

[ColdFusion]

I think for all the trouble it might just be better to get a RB25DE without VVT and just use that. What ECU would I need to use if I were to turbo that setup? R33 RB25DET?

Last question is what is the difference between the RB30E long and short block and do you know what the short block comes off?

[BADR33]

if your gona talk about rb30det you need to go through that sticky as that has all the info. use r33 turbo computer with vvt head. rb20det for r32 rb25 head. the only rb25de head that doesnt have VVT is R32.

im pretty sure you have to run an aftermarket ecu to keep the turbo happy

the short block is just an rb30e with out the head on. a long block is with the head on. they still come from r31 skylines or vl commys

[Eug]

ahhh that sucks...

so sorry to hear BADR33.

its great to see someone go out there and do something totally different...

maadness - cant wait for the dyno graph and some 1/4 mile times

[ColdFusion]

if your gona talk about rb30det you need to go through that sticky as that has all the info. use r33 turbo computer with vvt head. rb20det for r32 rb25 head. the only rb25de head that doesnt have VVT is R32.

im pretty sure you have to run an aftermarket ecu to keep the turbo happy

the short block is just an rb30e with out the head on. a long block is with the head on. they still come from r31 skylines or vl commys

So an R33 turbo ecu for a RB30DET with VVT and a R32 turbo ecu for RB30DET without VVT.

I was thinking the stock computers might be able to handle the corresponding stock turbos or maybe something a little bigger? Could it be because of the larger displacement the mixtures will be wrong and need to be corrected with an aftermarket ecu??

[BADR33]

for run in you can use stock ecus. but you still cant hit boost.

as i said before. i dont know alot about turbo rb30s cus i was never aiming to build one. rb20det ecu can be chipped so it would handle. aftermarket is best.

cheers eug

yeah it sucks but there isn't anything i can do. it was acttualy knocking after like 5kms so it musta been pissing out the oil. i didnt see it was leaking oil due to the fact it was pissing out the coolant.

it also means i can get the coolant leak between the inlet manifold and the head sorted too.

but argh more waiting!!

i should be able to find out whats happend and what needs fixing on tuesday so i guess thats D-day

all i can say it is well worth it and im pleased with the engine's power and delievery. yeah i cant wait to dyno or get some drag/circut times either. ill be sure to post them up.

now i know what dondenoto gets to feel everytime he drives his r31

Edited March 4, 2006 by BADR33

[ColdFusion]

Thanks for all the info BADR33, you've been a big help. I think I've got my mods roughly planned out now. Hope you get your car back on the road again soon.

[BADR33]

GOOD NEWS, sounds like the bearings will be fine. the oil was leaking outa the top fitting of the external oil feed due to me not doing it up tight enough. but it felt tight to me when i did it cus i think it was catching on the back of the cam cover back plate. stupid engine reconditoiners telling me that if they did it it would cost me more.

so that means the rattle is supposed to be somthing to do with the clutch/flywheel area. so that means the gearbox has to come out more $$ down the drain but its another thing that will be my fault most likly.

oh well. moral of the story is: wait till you have all your parts, dont rush, and make sure you torque everything up that needs too be torqued as thats probly the cause of the knocking sound.

should have the car back running perfect on friday all going to plan *fingers crossed*

[AMS]

Hey Lad

Seriously considering doing this and throwing it into an S13 - How the car running now? Any updates for us?

[NA power]

yes im thinking of doing it to. only prob is i got a VVT head on my car. Anyone got a step by step from start to finsh on how to do it. i mean even how to prep the block for the new head.

That would b a good idea for somone that has done to make.....

people would pay for it.... including me

also what happens when you goto rego and they check the engine numbers Wouldnt they be diffrent??

[AMS]

^^Thats a damn good idea. I'd pay too

[Eug]

if you get a new RB30 block you can *ahem* stamp your old engine number onto it i've heard of people grinding and sanding back the old one and *ahem* printing the new one one.

getting the vvt to work is pretty much the same as having it done with the RB30DET hybrid (check the turbo section for this) basically all the fundamental principals in building the RB30DE can be obtained from the sticky in that thread... (its a looong read over 100 pages - so be prepared to do your homework)

[BADR33]

hey sorry guys been a while since iv been on the net.

the rb30s going great.. well except for the suspected cracked headgasket.. but thats not a biggy cus its only leaking oil down the side of the block.

in NZ there is atleast one place that modifys the vvt head to fit it. R.I.P.S is who i got mine through. hes well knowen for building high power stock internald rb30det cars.

i havnt been pulled up at all for my engine as it still looks like a stock engine. just a little taller. but i think NZ is a little easyer on cars.

im just looking in to some reground cams now as i only want to take the head off once if i can help it. so might also look at some minor porting and polishing at the same time if i can afford it. then probly an ECU and a few other things. im also looking for some parts to custom make a hex throttle setup.

[BADR33]

yay i finialy got the chance to go down the 1/4 mile..

started off with 16.3s. then i got down to 15.5 at 93mph on a unpreped track..

because of the lack of traction i was only doing 2.6sec 60foots

didnt help with running a single spinner at 2.5degrees camber in the rear. oh and running with the 18s on...

all i can say is bring on the 2way diff and reground cams!!

[Eug]

your mph indicates a much faster time.. something like low 15s or possibly even a high 14.

i reckon an LSD from another R33, and improved launches, maybe some 16" rims and tyres and you'll be running heaps better

[Maxx]

a decent launch <2 sec 60foot will bring the time down to high 14

after the installation of LSD and cams, maybe mid 14 if lucky?

Edited November 21, 2006 by Maxx

[nizmo_freek]

Congrats on the time geoff, you should be able to get those times down with some better tyres and the correct setup etc, i was there on sat and saw ur car parked next to crux, i was in the green ford BA xr8, it was a completly shit day and a waste of a trip.

Yours cars lookng great man!