Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 99
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

well a mate of mine with a 4dr whale ran a low 16 a couple of years ago.. NZ dusnt have the best drag tracks.. well the best one is too far away. haha.

i just bought a 2way diff off the local internet trading site.. im hoping its a good one cus that would be bloody handy to have a nice diff finialy. slightly lower ratio at 4.1 but its all good!

so the diffs on the way. now all i need is a set of semi slicks or some 16s and should be looking even better.

i think if i can get in to high 14s by the end of the summer i would be extremly happy.. that would be 1 pretty fast 4dr whale ay?

i hadnt even planned to drag untill like 2days before the drags...

cheers nizmo freek.. im still getting the mudd outa the guards of my car! probly going to have to take off the wheels and clean every thing again!! sunday was sooo much nicer

15.1 from a GTS1 or 2? 2 bit more powerful (around 140ish kw at engine)

whatever, thats pretty fugen quick

i guy in my class had a r31 wagon that ran a flat 16 with quite a few bolt on things, and some match porting, that was about it (thermo fans, mini spool, catless zorst were the major stuff)

Edited by usherly
That really is a worry when a couple of years back a bloke at a private air drag day ran 15.1 after 15.1 in his R31 GTS that only had an exhaust.

What power did the GTS make? I think it was some where around 140fwkw.

Yeah that's it, 140.... I've got one :laugh:

Doesn't surprise me though..... R31's are a fair bit lighter than a 4dr R33.

The GTS's make pretty decent power up top compared to normal RB30E's, and 3.9 diff instead of 3.7

Gday , not here to brag about my car . Heres a few things i did to my RB30DE to get 14.1 @ 97 mph . For starters its in an r31 station wagon and only wieghs around 1300 kg . Get as much wieght out as possible , like spare tyres tool boxes , towbar if it has one .

Am using a rb25de gearbox , so same ratios as yours . Diff has 4.11 pintara gears and a mini spool ( locker ) . Tyres were just 195 60 x 14 radials with 20 psi . Advanced the ignition timing approx 4 degrees , diconnect the vvt solenoid . Diconnect the exhaust at the end of the extractors ( you,ll love the noise too ).

Hope this helps you go quicker .

Edited by dondesoto

my diff ratio is 4.3... but a single spinner isnt much use on a slippery track. with stiff suspension and 18s and 2.5deg camber in the back...

next time i will put stock suspeinsion in. run some 16s possibly with semi slicks

yeah i loved the sound with just dropping the rear muffler off.

cheers guys. the next one is in about a month so ill see if i can improve on my time...

  • 1 month later...

Where do you NA blokes have peak power being made with the rb30de's?

Us turbo blokes find power peaks around 5500rpmish with the std plenum, aftermarket plenums have power on the stock cams peaking around 6400rpm but more importantly power holds really well to 7500rpm. On stock cams.

um mine peaks at like 6000ish i think. there will be a dyno sheet on here somewhere but revs to 7 in a flash... still on stock ecu as well...

yeah rach you got that right it was 123rwkw and i did run a 15.2...

basicly the 123rwkw is just becuase the car hasnt been tuned and has hardly had any real mods done to it yet.

the NZ tracks arnt very sticky. well the track i was on wasnt very good as it had been raining that day and the night before... plus i needa pratice launches etc cus a 2.2 60foot isnt that good. that 15.2 was done with street trim plus sub and clothes and stuff.

i still have the vvt cams in.. but i will be sending them to get reground soonish to help with top end power for the strip

  • 4 weeks later...

Hey guys, I have a 1997 r33 GTS25 series 2, Towards the end of the year i am looking to make my RB25DE a rb30de. I have read http://www.geocities.com/rb30_twincam this guide but i am only 17 and not exactly sure who to go to for help and i wouldnt be able to do it myself.

Im just gathering research atm

1. Where could i take my car to get this done.

2. Is this possible with my engine.

3. Where do i start with the process and how long will it roughly take from start to finish.

4. Total cost excluding labour from workshops if done at one.

Any help would be great.

josh.

i can answer one of your questions, and that is yes you can do it with your engine.. but as in using it for parts.. the head will need to be modifyed to fit the block slightly as well. the others you should probly start a new thread for.

update for my car:

my link ecu has arrived, just waiting on finding a cable to tune it and for the car to be drivable again, its got clutch/gearbox problems.

also have got 2x xf throttle bodys that i am modifying at the moment, then all i gota do is make up some flanges and get the hole lot welded up

Speak to your insurance company about cover and modifications that are not deemed legal by the state.

I went shopping for insurance this year. I called every insurance company I know of (Famous car insurance, young and cool, just cars, shannons) that deals with imports.

ALL said you are required to tell us what modifications have been done to the car BUT its then up to you to make sure those modifications are 'legal'. If those modifications are not legal we can refuse to pay a claim.

Its just another way to possibly get out of a claim should you mess up bad and cost them a lot of money.

  • 2 years later...
rb25de head that has been rebuilt and modifyed to fit rb30 and run VVT $1050 all up (i got lucky with the guy RIPS selling the part that he was going to use on his drag car) the mods were $500 with a braided line to run vvt.

what needs to be modified on the head to make it go straight onto the rb30 block? & do i HAVE to run VVT?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Lucky man, who owns it in the family? Any pics? 
    • The engine stuff is Greg Autism to the Max. I contacted Tony Mamo previously from AFR who went off to make his own company to further refine AFR heads. He is a wizard in US LS world. Pretty much the best person on earth who will sell you things he's done weird wizard magic to. The cam spec is not too different. I have a 232/234 .600/603 lift, 114LSA cam currently. The new one is 227/233 .638 .634. The 1.8 ratio roller rockers will effectively push this cam into the ~.670 range. These also get Mamo'ified to be drilled out and tapped to use a 10mm bolt over an 8mm for better stability. This is what lead to the cam being specced. The plan is to run it to 6800. (6600 currently). The Johnson lifters are to maintain proper lift at heavy use which is something the LS7's supposedly fail at and lose a bit of pressure, robbing you of lift at higher RPM. Hollow stem valves for better, well everything, Valve train control. I dunno. Hollow is better. The valves are also not on a standard valve angle. Compression ratio is going from 10.6 to 11.3. The cam is smaller, but also not really... The cam was specced when I generated a chart where I counted the frames of a lap video I had and noted how much of the time in % I spent at what RPM while on track at Sandown. The current cam/heads are a bit mismatched, the standard LS1 heads are the restriction to power, which is why everyone CNC's them to get a pretty solid improvement. Most of the difference between LS1->LS2->LS3 is really just better stock heads. The current cam is falling over about 600rpm earlier than it 'should' given the rest of my current setup. CNC'ing heads closes the gap with regards to heads. Aftermarket heads eliminate the gap and go further. The MMS heads go even further than that, and the heads I have in the box could quite easily be bolted to a 7.0 427ci or 454 and not be any restriction at all. Tony Mamo previously worked with AFR, designed new heads from scratch then eventually founded his own business. There he takes the AFR items and performs further wizardry, CNC'ing them and then manually porting the result. He also ports the FAST102 composite manifold: Before and after There's also an improved racing crank scraper and windage tray. Helps to keep oil in the pan. Supposedly gains 2% power. Tony also ports Melling oil pumps, so you get more oil pressure down low at idle, and the same as what you want up top thanks to a suitable relief spring. There's also the timing chain kit with a Torrington bearing to make sure the cam doesn't have any thrust. Yes I'll post a before and after when it all eventually goes together. It'll probably make 2kw more than a setup that would be $15,000 cheaper :p
    • Because the cars wheels are on blocks, you slide under the car.   Pretty much all the bolts you touched should have been put in, but not fully torque up.   Back them off a turn or two, and then tighten them up from under the car with the wheels sitting on the blocks holding car up in the air.
    • Yes. Imagine you have the car on the ground, and you mine away all the ground under and around it, except for the area directly under each individual wheel. That's exactly how it'd look, except the ground will be what ever you make the bit under each wheel from
    • Yes, if you set the "height" right so that it's basically where it would be when sitting on the wheel. It's actually exactly how I tighten bolts that need to be done that way. However....urethane bushes do NOT need to be done that way. The bush slides on both the inner and outer. It's only rubber bushes that are bonded to the outer that need to be clamped to the crush tube in the "home" position. And my car is so full of sphericals now that I have very few that I need to do properly and I sometimes forget and have to go back and fix it afterwards!
×
×
  • Create New...