Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R32 GTST front bar, GTR style with N1 holes, lower lip and grille sections. Genuine Jap product ( TBO brand), so will fit fine, but needs attention to lower lip ( see photo). Red in color. $75

R32 GTST front bar, GTR style with N1 holes, black side rubber fins ( I don't get it myself...??), lower lip and grille sections. Genuine Jap product, so will fit fine. Good condition, only minor scratches and 1 small crack easily repairable, silver in color. $275

R33 GTST full bodykit, 400R front bar, Drift R sides and rear. $650 the lot

R33 GTST front bar, possibly Type M?, good condition except for slight dent ( see photo), black in color, $175 or $250 if lights included.

freight can be arranged if required. pick up preferred.

post-23331-1136360833.jpg

post-23331-1136360898.jpg

post-23331-1136360960.jpg

post-23331-1136361020.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/100594-bodykit-bits-n-pieces/
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for advice chaps   so you would change idler and tensioner bolt as well ? I guess because you thinking they have stretched once ?   i have done some research and on nissan belt and seem to hold 700hp but thinking HKS to be on safe side   i think I put nissan there last time   also thinking of changing cam cover to glass style:)
    • Nissan/Pitwork is fine stuff. HKS is just marketing wank. I personally wouldn't do the idler if it is already new. If it looks and feels fine, it is fine. But as D says - it's cheap to add it to the job. The water pump ditto. Even more so. If it show no signs of problems, then it is nearly new - leave it.
    • 1. I can't see a location on your profile but you do mention GBP so I'll assume you are in UK. In Australia, CBC make a timing belt kit with the gears and idler and tension bearing and that is what I use without any problems. I'm sure OEM or HKS are also fine but I wouldn't pay extra for HKS over anything else. 2. Yes, I would always change the idler and tensioner and the stud and bolt that hold them in. Assuming they were all done last time it is highly unlikely you would have a problem, but they are very cheap to add to the job considering the time it will take anyway.  3. No, you don't need to lock them as such (I think that is more for engines without timing marks), but you should make sure they move as little as possible once the belt is off as you can hit pistons on valves if they move too far. As always, make sure you line it all up to top dead centre with the timing marks aligned before you take the old belt off.
    • How to wreak havoc at a bogans party... Swap out the goon bag hanging from the clothes line with oil bag... Watch chaos ensue during Goon of Fortune....
×
×
  • Create New...