Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, firstly I apologise if this is in the wrong section, as I wasn't sure if it should go in General, Handling etc. Secondl apologies if this has been posted before, I did run several searches looking for this information but couldnt find everything I wanted.

No doubt having said that, someone's going to post about three or four search strings proving me wrong, so apologies in advance.

Basically i'm after two bits of information.

1) Does anyone know of any places or sites that have lightweight flywheels of good quality. If physical stores, in the queensland region.

I know of Nengun and Modyourcar. Nengun have an ORC for around $550. Is this a good price?

2) My second question is for those who have taken the lightened flywheel route, for an everyday driver, what is a good weight to go for on the car? I see the majority around the 4.8-5Kg range.

I know that the lightened flywheel affects that ability of the car to provide torque, (in a sense) thus when the car has to carry more load it must work harder than normal. I was just wondering of any other side effects that are evident with a lightened flywheel. IE: Fuel usage, idle quality, highway cruising quality etc.

3) This is my last question I promise. What is a good price for a lightened flywheel, and is it better to have a stock one ground down/balanced and machined. Or buy a chrome-molly lightened one etc?

Thanks for your patience and thanks in advance to any input or advice.

-Tom

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/100600-lightened-flywheels-on-r33-skylines/
Share on other sites

Lightened flywheels have been covered many many times before on this board.

I found the car to accelerate easier from a standing start, gear changes at wot felt quicker and much less likely to crunch, overall there was zero negatives, zero difference in fuel consumption, zero difference in vibration.

yer the search function can be a bit of a pain in the arse some times. Practice makes perfect. :(

I'm soon to grab a lightened flywheel, this time around I will grab one witha replaceable insert. Ceramic clutch's hammer them.

Edited by Cubes
I'm soon to grab a lightened flywheel, this time around I will grab one witha  replaceable insert. Ceramic clutch's hammer them.

i second that! i had some mild wear and tear marks on my flywheel when i changed my clutch, at the time i couldnt spare the cash or have the car off the road for another week to do the flywheel properly so ye olde emmery paper had suffice as a temp thing. 10 months down the track ive noticed if im lazy with the gear changes it shudders like no tomorrow. Gearbox is on its last legs at the moment so ill do it properly this time round and get a new flywheel when the gearbox is done.

Thanks for the reminder cubes! After the box is done maybe i can join the RB30 club. I dont wanna do the motor if my gearbox is cactus. I might even try to grandpa the car round for an extra couple of months so i can do box and motor at the same time. That way the old man is happy because i wont be using his precious garage space.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They work on really anything track related now. They do my mates r35 gtr and it's a weapon of a car.
    • I use the penrite 600f in my cars and have had no issues even at Townsville v8s when I drove that but I bled fluid end of day for just in case. Good value and a about 38-40 on sale. Use castrol srf on the supercars and no need to Bleed brakes over a race weekend. Do the 1000km with no issues. Over 120 a bottle I seen at repco. A quality brake pad is always a good starting point the ebc stuff I've seen let go after 2 sessions with heavier cars. I'd be going to a decent track pad and maybe those porsche air guides on the control arm to help with some air over the rotor. Helps on 86/brz with stock callipers.  
    • yeah I've never understood that either.... And to answer an earlier question, I write the date on open bottles and throw them if more than 12 months old (which they almost always are, because I don't need to bleed them unless I'm changing lines/calipers etc in between)
    • Nah, the one that hit the boot was a big steel locker, around 6 foot height, 4 foot wide and 2 foot deep, empty it weighs about 15kg and had about that amount of stuff in it The photo didn't give a good representation of the actual damage, the large ding on the passenger side was about a inch deep, the one on the driver was about 1/2 inch deep, right on the curve, where the inner boot frame doesn't let you get behind it with a dolly Basically the same issue with getting behind the damage on the centre of the boot We could have filled it all with bog, but my OCD would be triggered every time I looked at it, knowing what hides beneath  As for the locker, I did get the shits with it and put it in the scap metal bin, but, I pulled it out and it is now sitting in the garage at home full of car servicing stuff, cleaning gear and random tools, it's going to pay for it's indiscretions
    • Whilst I typically don't cheap out on things, if I can save some money, like $1000, on a clean straight panel, that gives me $1000 to spend on other stuff, basically free money really 🤔 🤣
×
×
  • Create New...