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Originally posted by Raza

well i got a price on a power chip for my r33 gts-t  fitted @ $990.

it will increase it from 187kw to 215kw.

well i know that the power chip connects on the stock ECU.

so my question is do u think its worth getting.

they talk alot of shit! 215kw on a powerchip/chiptorque dyno is 170oddrwkw on a normal dyno!

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Originally posted by INASNT

they talk alot of shit! 215kw on  a powerchip/chiptorque dyno is 170oddrwkw on a normal dyno!

Actually it COULD be true! Depends on what clutch you have, the condition, etc, there's an average of 30-40kw loss in the drivetrain (a standard manual GTS-t with 187kw @ engine will produce abt 150rwkw) more loss in automatic (about 50kw). So if a powerchip-ed car made 170odd rwkw, add a 40kw drivetrain loss than you're looking at around 210kw at the engine, which is close to what they advertised.

PS: I am in no affiliation with power chip, and I seriously thinking of getting a 2nd hand PowerFC for $1200-1500 over a Powerchip.

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do a search on here...

Its basically a replacement ECU which replaces the whole standard computer. Rather than just overriding a few things with a chip, you can fine tune many parameters that the stock computer (or just adding a replacement chip) doesn't let you.

In the longer term it becomes more useful to get the most out of all the extras you might bolt on such as bigger turbo, different injectors, etc. A chip may do some things, but it can't totally change how the car computer "thinks" - its mainly fooling it into thinking certain things by adjusting what the standard computer "sees" from the fuel system, air intake, oil system, turbo, etc. Thats how i see it.

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PowerFC replaces your standard ECU and plugs into your standard factory loom. There's no way one can tell your car got PowerFC or not unless they opened up the ECU cover panel and have a look at the computer itself.

Legality I'm not sure, perhaps not unless you get it checked & certified by an approved engineer (check on emission, etc). But if you keep your own factory ECU, in case anything wrong happens, just a matter of unplug and swap to get you off the hook. Also it's a good idea to let your insurance company know as well, otherwise you may not be covered in an event.

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Any aftermarket ecu or piggy-back system is illegal, as it alters the emissons of the car.

That is why i have put one in :(

An alternative to the Power FC is the new WOLF 3D V4 R33 plug-in. Costs about $1400, has a s**t load of adjustable features and works a treat.

I am not affiliated with WOLF, but just put one in my car. Unfortunately i have incountered a couple of grimlins from the ecu.

1/ Had to temporarily disconnect my A/C as it wouldn't turn off.

2/ Have been playing Russan roulette on start-up as the idiotic software programmer decided to put a 40 degree advancement on the ignition timing at start-up.

Wolf has since upgraded s/w and h/w in the unit and my car is going in next week to be upgraded and retuned free of charge.

Apart from the two issues the wolf has been excellant with a very noticable differance in low and mid range power.

A bonus feature of the Wolf is the immobiliser option. To start the car the driver has to enter a pin code through the hand controller (Approx. $250 extra for hand controller). What better way to stop those #@*#in theives than switching off your ecu (no wires that can be bypassed, etc.)

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Originally posted by rs73

Actually it COULD be true! Depends on what clutch you have, the condition, etc, there's an average of 30-40kw loss in the drivetrain (a standard manual GTS-t with 187kw @ engine will produce abt 150rwkw) more loss in automatic (about 50kw). So if a powerchip-ed car made 170odd rwkw, add a 40kw drivetrain loss than you're looking at around 210kw at the engine, which is close to what they advertised.

PS: I am in no affiliation with power chip, and I seriously thinking of getting a 2nd hand PowerFC for $1200-1500 over a Powerchip.

rianto

remembe rthat guy that came to the first dyno day at race pace with the power chip and he only got 170rwkw but he had a print out of his graph that said he had 195rwkw on the chiptorque dyno!

Their and AVO dynos read alot more than most of the other (realistic ones). Friend got him link comp tuned on avo dyno and it came out to 185rwkw then he went to race pace 1 week later and only got 165rwkw.

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Originally posted by Black33

guys, to sidetrack. i always thought that the losses on a dyno were roughly worked out by dividing by 0.7 - 0.75.  

So, someone with, say 183 rwkw :D,  would have around 245 - 260kw @ engine. Am I way off? Don't std r33's put out around 130rwkw, which equates to 0.7?

its also how u calibrate it!

theres a thing called photochop 2 which some places use to give u nice big readings :D

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240rwhp ought to equate to about 300HP @mota. Each dyno is different, and so is each day so no point comparing. BTW the compressor map of the stock turbo (R33) shows about 60% drop inefficiency at about 290HP worth of air (at the turbo with no losses). Makes a genuine 200rwkw with decent drivetrain loss, something a standard turbo can't actually do on paper.

But like I said all rear wheel dynos don't tell you whats at the motor. So 210kw at the motor is probably right in a perfect world.

people love thier dynos don't they....

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Hi Denham,

Yea I do remember him...

Did he has a power chip installed? I thought his car was worked by APS somewhere in Bayswater area, with Chiptorque computer and he some FMIC...

I'm not sure which dyno power chip based their reading on, but I'm planning to get PowerFC anyway, so it won't bother me much :D

Rianto

Originally posted by INASNT

rianto

remembe rthat guy that came to the first dyno day at race pace with the power chip and he only got 170rwkw but he had a print out of his graph that said he had 195rwkw on the chiptorque dyno!

Their and AVO dynos read alot more than most of the other (realistic ones). Friend got him link comp tuned on avo dyno and it came out to 185rwkw then he went to race pace 1 week later and only got 165rwkw.

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hehehe :D

Originally posted by rev210

people love thier dynos don't they....

the equivalent of a pfc with the boost solenoid would be an s-afc, s-itc and an avc-r piggy backed off the std ecu right? (correct me if wrong). seems a bit messy for me and you got enough blue screens in there to light up a whole cabin. :)

i say get a pfc... probably the most easiest to install and tune and it doesnt affect your wiring loom. and its hidden behind the passenger kick panel so you cant see it anyway.

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