Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey there people, im nearly 20 years of age now and currently driving a lancer :O yes i know.... i have had a bit of experience in driving rear wheel drive performance cars, but not alot.

After being indecisive for a while i have finaly decided of all the cars i plan to buy an R32, mainly for the fact of price and my learning of driving and the capacity to mod.

Originally i was going to look at buying one through JSA in preston, Melbourne but havnt heard the best of news and am smart enough to realise there a little overpriced.

I just wanted to ask what to look out for, going through the skyline specs in the skyline .pdf found on the forum i noticed the Type M or GTs-t R32's where most powerfull so what is the difference between the two as in pro's and cons? and what are they worth? I am willing to pay anything for a good car considering the amount i originaly planned to spend.

i will be eventually modding this car but first i have to learn to drive it. I will be taking it on track too.

so any suggestions and info would be great.

ta.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/100726-up-and-coming/
Share on other sites

lol just about every single skyline i see for sale says its a type M...so i dont think they're that rare at all

and when you say the R32 GTS-T is more powerful than the rest, you mean power to weight right...coz powerwise the R33 has more than the 32...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/100726-up-and-coming/#findComment-1841016
Share on other sites

lol just about every single skyline i see for sale says its a type M...so i dont think they're that rare at all

and when you say the R32 GTS-T is more powerful than the rest, you mean power to weight right...coz powerwise the R33 has more than the 32...

well i mean out of the R32 series. yeh im not to into the R33's, never really have been, and friends have steered me away from buying one, becauseits not a good choice as a first RWD performance car.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/100726-up-and-coming/#findComment-1841267
Share on other sites

can i ask why?

you yourself said that the R32 is more powerful (power to weight wise) so why isnt the 33 a good first RWD performance car?

just curious...

sorry dude i think you got me wrong i meant the GTst is most powerful out of all the R32's as in compared to the GTS4 and that sought of stuff.

i can only go by what ive been told so please to think im an idiot, The 32 supposably a better choice for the availability in parts and price of parts compared to the 33. Ive also been told they handle not so great compared to the R32 and with the extra power that the R33 has it might be a bad cimbination, of power and handling.

But thats only what ive heard.

Edited by koleka
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/100726-up-and-coming/#findComment-1841317
Share on other sites

Not much difference between type m and gts-t. I have a GTS-t and a friend of mine has type m. Because of their age they will vary in power and condition depending on how they have been driven over the past 20 years. Just look for a clean, straight car. As for parts, DONT CRASH IT!!! simple. know your limits and stay there. Engine parts will probably be replaced with aftermarket parts anyhow so no hassle finding them. Stay clear of RB25. Being a bigger engine they run higher compression which after 50,000 klm of being thrashed as we do, they tend to wear out quicker than the RB20

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/100726-up-and-coming/#findComment-1843043
Share on other sites

Stay clear of RB25. Being a bigger engine they run higher compression which after 50,000 klm of being thrashed as we do, they tend to wear out quicker than the RB20

OK, I'm no expert on motors... but that statement is just wrong...... and stupid? :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/100726-up-and-coming/#findComment-1843581
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My plan is to go the pink option. But still add the 4th fitting near the oil cap and just cap it off for now.  That way I can add 2 extra to the sump and have 4 dedicated breathers/drains if I ever remove the sump for any reason. 
    • Oh, yeah, look - here's the thing. You always replace the tensioner when you're going in there to replace a belt....under normal circumstances. You want to make sure it is good and safe, and that you don't create a reason to take the front of the bloody motor apart again. But in this case, OP is replacing a belt that has aged out on time, not usage. The belt is a million miles away from aging out on usage. The belt gets a time "limit" merely because it is made of rubber and can degrade naturally. The tensioner? Not so much. I reckon it could last forever on the current usage pattern. So I reckon if the thing is going to continue to get used at the same rate, replacing the tensioner is somewhat gratuitous. Would I replace it if I was doing it on my car right now? Hell yes. Because my car does 10-20 thousand kays a year. So it's all going to be the same thrashedness. Would I YOLO it on OP's car. More than likely.
    • I dunno. I think any one of those from each side to sump is probably enough. Remember - this is about creating a path for gas flow up from the sump to the cam covers. That gas flow then has to leave via the lines to the catch can. There's probably little point in providing 100% more capacity from sump up to covers cf. what you have from there to the catch can. Put in the 3 convenient ones? Any which way that you see fit. That'd be my thoughts.
    • Getting holes drilled into to cam covers and AN10 fitting welded on. My sump has 2x AN10 fittings on it already. These are the options I have come up with that can be done without needing to remove the sump to add more fittings. In all options front of passenger side cover connects to VCT head drain bung (i know this isn't the best spot but my feeling is it must do something). Option 1 (pink). The back of each cam covers gets its own line to sump. Option 2 (blue). The back of each cam covers are linked and share a line to sump. The front of drivers side gets its own line. Option 3 (Black). Drivers side are Tee'd together and share a line to the sump. Passenger side rear gets its one line to the sump.
    • I'd be surprised if Nissan doesn't mention it in the manual as it seems unlikely that a tensioner is going to last 200,000km.
×
×
  • Create New...