Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have an R32 GTS-t 4 door that has a strange noise coming from either the gearbox or clutch... i'm thinking the gearbox.

Sounds like a bearing problem, but i've been to 2 gearbox mechanics and 1 mechanic and no one can give me a definate answer.

If the car is idle, the noise is there. If I then put the clutch in, the noise goes away after about 2 seconds. It's hard to explain th noise.. It is obviously something that is rotating which makes me think a bearing. Definately a clunky type of noise.

If i'm driving along, no matter what gear i'm in, the noise is there.

if I drive along then press the clutch peddle in, the noise is still there.

The noise was there when I bought the car, although it wasn't as loud as it is now.

I fitted a new heavy duty clutch to the car, hoping that maybe the noise was the thrust bearing and that would obviously be replaced with a new clutch, but it didn't go away.

The mechanic I took it to (fairly well known) said it was probably an input bearing, which is my guess. He told me to see a gearbox mechanic.

The first gearbox guy said I had a pulled tooth on 1st gear and that he wanted to rebuild the box for about $1500 (may happen in the future but funds are low at the moment). That doesn't make much sense to me as the noise is there when idling in neutral and in every gear, not just 1st

The other gearbox guy said he would pull the box out, take a look inside and see if there is a problem. Ofcourse, he said the box was absolutely beautiful on the inside (his words not mine haha) and that he doesn't know what the problem is.

So here I am back at square one..

My un-educated guess would be an input bearing, although I have been told it could possibly be a thrust bearing..

Anyone have any ideas?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/100732-r32gts-t-making-strange-noise/
Share on other sites

From my experiences, I've found that with 32's get noisy G/Box Input Shaft Bearings and Reverse Idler Bearings. I have also known 31 and 32 G/Box's to carry on working fine with these noises for 100,000+km so.........

Maybe try replacing the G/box oil with some Redline Shockproof Lightweight and see if the noise goes away within a week or two. Cheaper than a gearbox rebuild ( I know, I just did mine ).

Hey dbo,

I have had this problem in two R32 gearbox's and what FAT32 says is true they can go on working for sometime, it is definetly your input shaft bearing in the GB if it starts to get any louder again I would suggest you get the bearings done because if you leave it too long it can damage other parts in the box then you will need to replace it because it becomes too expensive to repair.

Just to confirm if you are sitting still with the car idiling can you hear a spinning noise?

Secondly if you put your foot on the clutch while stopped does the spinning noise slow and come to a stop?

:D

Hey dbo,

I have had this problem in two R32 gearbox's and what FAT32 says is true they can go on working for sometime, it is definetly your input shaft bearing in the GB if it starts to get any louder again I would suggest you get the bearings done because if you leave it too long it can damage other parts in the box then you will need to replace it because it becomes too expensive to repair.

Just to confirm if you are sitting still with the car idiling can you hear a spinning noise?

Secondly if you put your foot on the clutch while stopped does the spinning noise slow and come to a stop?

:O

Spot on champ. Idling I hear it, but it slows down and stops when I put in the clutch..

I've been thinking input bearing the whole time but neither of the g/b mechanics agreed...

Any idea on what it would cost to replace an input bearing? I'll be getting a timing belt done aswell as a water pump so I might get it done at the same time..

Thanks everyone for your help :)

Hey all

I have the same problem. I hear a spinning type noise when the car is idling, then as soon as I press in the clutch the noise goes away and everything sounds fine. Any idea on how much it'd cost to replace this input bearing and where I could source one from?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No worries, everything worked out in the end. I just wanted to make the point that it doesn't matter where it comes from (I.E Australia), it can be broken or improperly built. I would still purchase from these companies in the future. B2R - Not certain how that finished, this was on a car I wired a few things and street tuned. I know the owner ended up shipping the motor back to Australia for investigation. Hopefully some of it is covered under warranty.  Turbosmart - I always pressure test everything that goes on my car. It's a habit from my career in oil and gas. I run two 40mm's and both had major leaks from the actuator to exhaust portion through the shaft. I returned both, they shipped me back two and one was leaking and the other had a 38mm top (40mm gate with 38mm actuator cap, no idea how that happens). Eventually after a lot of back and forth I found myself with two non-leaking gates. I believe this happens a lot more then people would like to believe but you would never know if you don't pressure test them prior to installation. Crank Motorsport - Issued a full refund and let me keep the seat rails. I turned them into scrap metal for other projects. GKTech - Shipped me out a replacement and asked that I modify it as per my idea and that they would do the same for a future revision. ATP - Can just needed a large shim to bolt up properly.  Haltech - They started an actual proper Beta channel for firmware's a few months back and stopped using the general public for testing. I'm now much happier.  Speedtek - f**k Speedtek. I would love to watch them burn.     
    • I've got a Turbosmart wastegate, ATP catch can, many GK Tech parts and Haltech everything. Everything's been perfect, sorry to hear your experience wasn't the same
    • The only high-power RB I've personally seen go pop after running for all of an hour on a dyno was built by B2R, while being remotely tuned by B2R. The only wastegates I've ever had leak like a sieve, return, still leak, return and get shipped back the wrong ones were from Turbosmart. The only final drive that I've ever purchased that were unusable, twice... were from Speedtek. The only seat mounts that I've ever purchased that placed the seats in the door frame were from Crank Motorsport. The only poorly designed parts that I had the manufacturer confirm should have been designed as per what I mentioned were from GKTech. The only ECU I've had firmware updates consistently break things are Haltech. The only catch can I've purchased that didn't fit in its advertised spot was from ATP. So forth and so on... Moral of the story, doesn't matter where it's from. Do your research beforehand and stick with products and companies you've trusted in the past.    @joshuaho96 If you want it done right, do it yourself.
    • Something coarse-ish. 180 is good.
    • I was surprised to see all the quick Jack models at the same prices on there. But yeah, grabbing one at 20% off would be great.
×
×
  • Create New...