Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb26 Rebuild:

Turbz_13

By Turbz_13,
in South Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

Sinista32 Grand Master

Sinista32

Posted
Posted

You guys get a good deal in SA.

Over this way it's $2k for engine out/in if you dont do it yourself.

Then about $6k for the remainder of a stock rebuild grinding your existing crank and with N1 Oil pump, gaskets, belts etc...

I worked it out to be around $3k for parts and $3k for labour.

New Rods will cost you another 1-2K depending on quality.

I did want to ask those who have had theirs rebuilt would you replace the Valves with newies while your doing it ?

Dan is that the cost of the parts only and using your own labour?

  • 1 month later...
Turbz_13 Experienced

Turbz_13

Posted
  • Author
Posted

at the moment it seems like my enigne is running fine. it was really weird, i took the car out on sunday for the cruz just thinkin of limping it around to places but i started to boost here and there and there was no noise at all as some of the guys would have noticed, ut has really got me stumped!!!!! i took it down to put some petrol in after every1 had left and it started to make a lil noise for a moment but then stopped. so a bit confused at the moment. i dont really want to spend 5-10k pn something i dont have to.

Turbz_13 Experienced

Turbz_13

Posted
  • Author
Posted
when the car was under load(seeing boost) and when the car has warmed up.

i thought it was a slower clunking noise, i listened again and it was more of a quicker tinging/klacking noise.

i have ball bearing turbos on it but the noise is actually coming from the other side of the engine(under the plenum)

i had help describing it and the best we could come up with is a small rock, gumnut or metal bearing in a tin thats being shaken.

it only seems to happen then the car/turbos have heated up and when the boost is starting to clime above the 0psi mark...say 3500-4000rpm.

but the noise still seams to b coming from the plenum side??????

but it didnt do it on the weekend nor did it do it when i started my car just before

Turbz_13 Experienced

Turbz_13

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

could it b that last time i had a service they used the wrong oil in the car??

could the oil b thining out too much?

i have been told that nissans r known to knock with the wrong oil

Edited by Turbz_13

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Shoota's R33 GT-R RB30/26

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I was more thinking so it doesn't flop around as much rather than for rotating it. Once you have the balance right, it should rotate well enough, depending on how much resistance there is on the pivot. I think you said the pivot point was on a bearing though didn't you?
    • Shoota_77
      Shoota's R33 GT-R RB30/26

      By Shoota_77 · Posted

      You can get them with the worm drive rotator but I was too tight to pay another $250-$300 so manual labour it is! I don't think it will be too hard to rotate though. 
    • MBS206
      Left & Right Window Regulators for 2013 Skyline V36 Coupe

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Sag as in the windows start to slowly open themselves, or they're just slow to go up/down with engine off?
    • MBS206
      Shoota's R33 GT-R RB30/26

      By MBS206 · Posted

      It looks like it needs a big worm gear drive on it to control the rotating, not a few sloppy pins!
    • MBS206
      R32gtr sputtering and stalling

      By MBS206 · Posted

      As Duncan said, first there was OBD, which few cars used, then came OBD2.   Now an interesting point, OBD2 isn't even for what you want to do. OBD2 is for emissions testing. There is some sensor data on OBD2, but it's up to the manufacturer what they're putting on it. Most scan tools operate on UDS, which like OBD2 is a standard built on-top of CAN. UDS specifies how to structure a message, what very limited things mean such as "read memory address" but it does not specify what is stored in which memory address, that is all up to the manufacturer. You either a scan tool compatible with that vehicle, or to know how to reverse engineer all the data, which can take a VERY long time and a lot of vehicles to get it right. Oh and then the manufacturer does a firmware update and changes what's where... Ask me how I know that as fact Oh, and by the time you've got the scan tool that supports all the manufacturers stuff, well, you're back at "But a consult cable and the Nissan software" The main difference being most manufacturers software these days works with the same hardware readers, as the readers are built to support J2534 which is another standard for how the PC communicates with the tool to make it do specific things on the car...
×
×
  • Create New...