Jump to content
SAU Community

Gtr Turbo Kit Help


Recommended Posts

GTR Garrett 350HP Upgrades

707160-5

pnblight uses them in WA and makes 500+rwhp with supporting mods

They bolt up to all the standard oil and water lines as well as dump pipes

several customers have pointed out, that they see a difference of 3-500rpm

Thanks

Tarek

RACESPEC

this is not the for sale section, traders can use thier own sections freely, not FI

cheers - R31Nismoid

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The Garrets 2860s are not quite bolt on,The oil drains dont bolt back on as the bolt spacing is narrower than the stock turbo but well worth the effort and very cheap.

China low mount manifolds dont work with these turbos also,Comp cover hits the manifolds.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Mashrock

r34 gtr n1 items.

depending on how far you want to go with them you can build yourself a responce machine.

you will need to spend alot more i guess to get the full potential out of these turbos tho.

cams, headwork, exhaust, etc etc etc

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I want to put a turbo kit on my R32 GTR and i want a response car. so if any one can steer me in the right direction that would be great. my r32 is basicly stock has a exhaust. so any other parts that might help me with making a response car please tell

the best two units are

Garret gt2560r 707160-5

Hks 2530

I personally not very interested in the gt-ss as you loss top end with no real gains in the bottom end over the 2530 or gt2560r (personal opinion )

both direct bolt on and both very similar, if i had to pick the differences the garret will spool a little earlier and make a little more hp at lower boost BUT the HKS is capable of high boost and comes in to it own in this area but these not a lot of motors that will run 1.5 bar plus which is where i believe the HKS start to over come the garrets

Racespec can supply the garret at a very good $$ much cheaper thean the hks unit new out of japan (comparing new with new)

I have run the garret turbos through all the stages of my build up from std with exhaust 12.08 1/4 miles (std air box ,injectors,afms, ecu ) to 529.4rwhp at 20 psi

pete

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2530's mate...i made over 440AWKW on race fuel and over 400AWKW on pump gas also made 467RWKW on 103unleaded....runs 10.3's and goes like a rocket off the mark..1.4-1.5 60' times...i might have a set for sale if you are interested...pm me

Edited by DiRTgarage
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Once the airbag is off, to remove the steering wheel.... Undo the 2 plugs into the clock spring, and the horn connector from it's clip. Hit the 19mm nut with a rattle gun (preferably) or if you don't' have one, you probably want an assistant to hold the wheel in place while you use a breaker bar to undo the nut Then, screw the nut back on 3 turns, and pull the wheel sharply towards you. If that doesn't work hit it medium force with a rubber mallet on either side, or possible behind if you can get there. If that all fails (it shouldn't!) you might need a steering wheel puller
    • So, to next task....the carbon fibre steering wheel was either an expensive factory option or a chinesium special. Either way, I don't like either the flat bottom or thick ring style, so it had to go So...to remove the steering wheel.... First, disconnect battery negative and stop on the brake pedal for a few seconds. Then, remove the small circular covers on each side of the wheel's rear surround to uncover the airbag clips. You need to push something like a flat bladed screw driver through, you need to push the steel clip inwards and pull the side of the airbag forward. Once you've done the easy side, same on the centre console side. You can see the tab you are shooting for circled in red Then, disconnect the horn spade connector and for the yellow airbag plug you need to get something small under the black locking tab to pop it out, then the connector releases......airbag is off  
    • @99RS4just wondering if you ever took photos of the footwell lighting / how you bypassed the controller, im keen to haver footwell lighting come on when I open the doors too   
    • Ultimately, if the tip is not far into the runner and the o-ring seals, then you are in business. Have you applied pressure to it as is? It is not really a problem for the injector to twist once it is bolted down, the oring seals it and you don't want it jambed into the oring too hard The plenum is intended to take multiple size lower injectors with different adapters, but the way you have it is fine if they seal.
    • Are these the Dmax ones you are in reference too? https://justjap.com/collections/driveshafts-bearings/products/d-max-reinforced-replacement-rear-driveshaft-set-fits-nissan-s13-s14-s15-r32-r33-r34-c35#description Not a bad idea to get the uni flange ones. I have sent just jap an email too. Will see what they say lmao. Only thing is the Dmax ones are on a big back order. Low key anything will be better then my OEM ones I got as they are sounding like popcorn when I go under load lmao 😂☠️🪦.
×
×
  • Create New...