Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

if you drop a rb26 in you'll have to change so much shit. seriously not worth it. it'll cost more than buying a gtr and you cant sell a gtst with an rb26 for more than a gtr. you'll regret it. go for reliability. buy a freshly reco'd rb20. or drop a second hand one in and sell the whole car if u want a lot more power. it will be sooooooooooo much cheaper this way. don't have to replace computer, gearbox etc...

  • Replies 55
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

just do a 25/30 and a big turbo, get some great power out of that.

uhhh... an RB30DET conversion is not the answer to everything...

you've mentioned it on the first page already, and everyone ignored you so just drop it.

just because you have bought one, doesnt mean everyone else can easily pull a good 10G+ outta their asses just to build one to be just like you.

signing off

RB30DET expert

uhhh... an RB30DET conversion is not the answer to everything...

you've mentioned it on the first page already - so just give it a break.

just because you have bought one, doesnt mean its as easy as pulling a good 10G+ outta your ass just to build one.

signing off

RB30DET expert

Correct Rb30 expert! To make it even worthwhile you’re spending big money to build it, and build it right. Other wise it’s just a basic, low revving diesel like motor, pretty damn boring IMHO.

I wouldn't go Rb26, for the same amount you could have a pretty mean Rb25 that’s pretty rev happy.

Each to their own.

Edited by Nismo_Boy

umm... have you seen what's involved with most of the guys on SAU who have had RB30DET's built??

Well - she obviously isn't going to build the motor herself (correct me if i'm wrong) but the labour involved will easily make that 10g.

I know you haven't said the answer to everything is an RB30, but your response to everything seems to be.

cheaper than a rb26 and less costly to fix if something goes wrong.

Proof?

To make it even worthwhile you’re spending big money to build it, and build it right. Other wise it’s just a basic, low revving diesel like motor

point exactly....

you have not even thought about the practicality of having the RB30 in her R32 - the fact that it sits higher and she would need a custom bonnet, or lowering of the actual motor.

now the more important question for Jadles is:

what does she intend to do with the car?

- does she want a dyno car that will produce the numbers?

- does she want a quick drag car?

- does she want a track car?

- does she want a car that will drive from A - B?

- does she want a street car that will be ready for all of the above?

what is her budget?

- does she want something reliable?

when she has considered all of those, then you can throw her the RB600DETT

Thought I'd step in here. Hey Ben how's things?

Anyway....RB30 with the RB25 head and a few other simple mods will absolutely wet over any pissant RB26.

For starters...

1. engine capacity is greater so there is much more torque

2. Rb25 head flows more than the Rb26

3. RB25/30 engine will cost you $200 to fix if you lose a bearing or break the bottom end.

4. MUCH MORE HORSEPOWER can be made from an RB25/30 than any other RB engine.

The only downfalls of the RB30 is they don't have the oil jets for the pistons....which can be sourced and placed easily enough.

The RB30 oil pumps are disigned weaker than the other RB engine so when they are punching out loads of torque they snap the snout of the pump off.

Signing off...

Everything EXPERT!

Edited by 3lit3 32
haha if your paying 10k for a 25/30 your being ripped off big time.

Never said it was the answer to everything at all, cheaper than a rb26 and less costly to fix if something goes wrong.

If your not spending ATLEAST $10k, your not getting a very good motor. Slapped together junk piles either don't last very long or drive like dog motors. Why any one would bother with a basic rb25/rb30 has me lost.

We've blown $25k on an Rb25 (not my R32 motor) very easy and it still wasn't perfect, what bob the builder back yardmen you get quotes from amazes me.

A reliable 400rwhp RB25/30 shouldn't cost you more than $6000. I've done the figures many times. You just have to get all the parts yourself and not rely on Mary Markup to get them for you.

a reliable 400rwhp Rb25/Rb30 that doesn't feel like a diesel motor on the other hand :)

$3k for head & head work.

$1k for block, balanced, honed, nitrited.

Forgies - Depends what type? from $1500

Rods - " " $2k I guess.

ECU ?

Tune ?

Misc?

Cooler?

Piping?

clutch?

Thats $7500 alone just for the numbers I posted let alone adding in everthing else plus labour.

Thought I'd step in here. Hey Ben how's things?

Anyway....RB30 with the RB25 head and a few other simple mods will absolutely wet over any pissant RB26.

For starters...

1. engine capacity is greater so there is much more torque

2. Rb25 head flows more than the Rb26

3. RB25/30 engine will cost you $200 to fix if you lose a bearing or break the bottom end.

4. MUCH MORE HORSEPOWER can be made from an RB25/30 than any other RB engine.

The only downfalls of the RB30 is they don't have the oil jets for the pistons....which can be sourced and placed easily enough.

The RB30 oil pumps are disigned weaker than the other RB engine so when they are punching out loads of torque they snap the snout of the pump off.

Signing off...

Everything EXPERT!

Hey Dan, ahh yeh not too bad.

After seeing dan's 32 and hearing about some of the work he's done, i'd pretty much take his word over the majority of people on here. When he gets his shop up and running i know where im taking my car simple as that.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lucky man, who owns it in the family? Any pics? 
    • The engine stuff is Greg Autism to the Max. I contacted Tony Mamo previously from AFR who went off to make his own company to further refine AFR heads. He is a wizard in US LS world. Pretty much the best person on earth who will sell you things he's done weird wizard magic to. The cam spec is not too different. I have a 232/234 .600/603 lift, 114LSA cam currently. The new one is 227/233 .638 .634. The 1.8 ratio roller rockers will effectively push this cam into the ~.670 range. These also get Mamo'ified to be drilled out and tapped to use a 10mm bolt over an 8mm for better stability. This is what lead to the cam being specced. The plan is to run it to 6800. (6600 currently). The Johnson lifters are to maintain proper lift at heavy use which is something the LS7's supposedly fail at and lose a bit of pressure, robbing you of lift at higher RPM. Hollow stem valves for better, well everything, Valve train control. I dunno. Hollow is better. The valves are also not on a standard valve angle. Compression ratio is going from 10.6 to 11.3. The cam is smaller, but also not really... The cam was specced when I generated a chart where I counted the frames of a lap video I had and noted how much of the time in % I spent at what RPM while on track at Sandown. The current cam/heads are a bit mismatched, the standard LS1 heads are the restriction to power, which is why everyone CNC's them to get a pretty solid improvement. Most of the difference between LS1->LS2->LS3 is really just better stock heads. The current cam is falling over about 600rpm earlier than it 'should' given the rest of my current setup. CNC'ing heads closes the gap with regards to heads. Aftermarket heads eliminate the gap and go further. The MMS heads go even further than that, and the heads I have in the box could quite easily be bolted to a 7.0 427ci or 454 and not be any restriction at all. Tony Mamo previously worked with AFR, designed new heads from scratch then eventually founded his own business. There he takes the AFR items and performs further wizardry, CNC'ing them and then manually porting the result. He also ports the FAST102 composite manifold: Before and after There's also an improved racing crank scraper and windage tray. Helps to keep oil in the pan. Supposedly gains 2% power. Tony also ports Melling oil pumps, so you get more oil pressure down low at idle, and the same as what you want up top thanks to a suitable relief spring. There's also the timing chain kit with a Torrington bearing to make sure the cam doesn't have any thrust. Yes I'll post a before and after when it all eventually goes together. It'll probably make 2kw more than a setup that would be $15,000 cheaper :p
    • Because the cars wheels are on blocks, you slide under the car.   Pretty much all the bolts you touched should have been put in, but not fully torque up.   Back them off a turn or two, and then tighten them up from under the car with the wheels sitting on the blocks holding car up in the air.
    • Yes. Imagine you have the car on the ground, and you mine away all the ground under and around it, except for the area directly under each individual wheel. That's exactly how it'd look, except the ground will be what ever you make the bit under each wheel from
    • Yes, if you set the "height" right so that it's basically where it would be when sitting on the wheel. It's actually exactly how I tighten bolts that need to be done that way. However....urethane bushes do NOT need to be done that way. The bush slides on both the inner and outer. It's only rubber bushes that are bonded to the outer that need to be clamped to the crush tube in the "home" position. And my car is so full of sphericals now that I have very few that I need to do properly and I sometimes forget and have to go back and fix it afterwards!
×
×
  • Create New...