Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

wanted to do a little write up about the ceff and the lag problems it has had. fitted a hks 2530 for reason of minimal lag and reasonable power output achievable. with supporting mods - fmic / 2530 / pod / zorst / bleed valve / fcd / bov achieved 225rwkw!!! but it came with massive lag :P --see dyno graph

post-9092-1136524796.jpg

so to sum it all up wasnt very happy with it - changed things along the way to 'test' and make it less laggy - slowly but surely and on a budget this is the results 213rwkw (but more fuel added for safety)

post-9092-1136525092.jpg

things that were changed to assist in helping the power delivery come on a lot earlier were

-hks evc III

-hks 1BAR adjustable actuator

-nismo lightened flywheel

it probably doesnt sound like much but the difference is ridiculous - originally boost wasnt hitting hard until you were pretty much on the limiter! and this was in second gear!!!

another thing which i was surprised about was. i was able to borrow a remapped computer from a mate to suit rb20 and hks 2530 and doing power runs on standard comp with HKS FCD and straight after swapping to remap the results were IDENTICAL!!! so stock computer it stays :P

anyway hopefully now i can focus on 'driving'

thanks to ppl who helped with it all - RYAN / TERRY / SIMON / LYNDON

so just beware the hks2530 on rb20det may not be exactly your choice in turbo upgrade and if upgrading i wouldnt mind seeing how a hi-flowed steel wheel rb25 turbo would be...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/100894-lag-problems-rb20hks-2530/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 57
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

With those added bits and pieces, obviously you had more control over the boost cycle in each gear etc using an EVC, but was there and increase or decrease in your torque figures? Where you running identical boost pressure with each dyno run, basically, looking for a reason for the 12KW loss...??

the loss of rwkw - was from more fuel being added as it was starting to get a little lean on 225rwkw. so now with more fuel added back in it is making the 213rwkw. with fuel now in the 11's it is a lot safer especially when it is basically a track/thrash/drift car

this is the same boost setting aswell in both power runs. at 1BAR

the lightened flywheel seriously felt like it made a difference! as opposed to the stock flywheel it helps spin easier because it's lighter - meaning it helps revs build up quicker and boost. (well thats what i'm guessing lol)

there was a HUGE increase of torque in the MIDRANGE.

originally i was very disappointed with the turbo and was 99% sure was going to put a stock rb20 turbo back on. it was that bad! BUT now it is a lot better.

just thought i'd post it up as i know of at least 2 other guys with similar lag problems from a hks2530 and hks2510 on rb20's

so just beware the hks2530 on rb20det may not be exactly your choice in turbo upgrade and if upgrading i wouldnt mind seeing how a hi-flowed steel wheel rb25 turbo would be...

made 190kw with a highflowed rb25 turbo on my rb20 at 14psi

little disappointed, but it was running on just actuator, no boost controller :)

lag is pretty huge, turbo starts spooling 2.8-3.0k but doesn't make fullboost till maybe 4.5k

Edited by nF
lag for 2530 maybe but 2510 on stock motor pffft they are LAG FREE unless you got serious issues with your timing

yep well lindo 'was' having lag issues with his 2510... once again the 1BAR adj actuator did make a big difference for him aswell...

and that is very interesting about the rb25 turbo!!! thanks for the info :)

another thing - check your actuator isnt dodgy (remove dump pipe and make sure wastegate is shut firm)

a dodgy way to increase your boost and also possibly reduce lag is to put a kink in your actuator rod (creates more tension) this may help if you're on a budget? or get a adj actuator rod... :)

I've seen this problem a few times in the last couple of months and every time it is the actuator, either set too loose (when adjustable) or still running a stocker.

This is on cars running decent ebc's aswell.

As for the highflow on an rb20. I ran an old stage 2 GCG and had 14psi by about 41-4200rpm using only an hks adjustable actuator. The current highflows are a bit more responsive than those ones.

nF, you'll find the boost curve will be an almost vertical line once you start winding boost in on the highflow. It will slowly build up to about 6-8psi over 1000 rpm or so and then just shoot up to what ever you decide to run in the next 200 (big turbo/small engine type response). You probably wont be able to spot the difference in spool time unless you plot runs back to back on a dyno.

Good to hear the Ceff is going alot better now Huddy, was alot of fun trying to tune your HKS EVC III around Pt Wakefield, had boost response like a light switch :P

You still running about 1.1BAR through the 2530?

Cant wait until to see it out on the track again some time soon

Gettn a new turbo for my Ceff tonight, RX7 S5 comp, high flowed RB20 turbine, i hope its not going to be too laggy...

Hey A31drifter, the rb smaller capacity per cylinder, be a shorter stroke than the SR there for less mid range and harder to spin the turbo up. think thats correct in short anyway

I have a 2535 on my rb20, I dont find it a problem wouldnt get too worried its a little laggy but it slams it on.

Edited by cefiro
I've seen this problem a few times in the last couple of months and every time it is the actuator, either set too loose (when adjustable) or still running a stocker.

This is on cars running decent ebc's aswell.

As for the highflow on an rb20. I ran an old stage 2 GCG and had 14psi by about 41-4200rpm using only an hks adjustable actuator. The current highflows are a bit more responsive than those ones.

nF, you'll find the boost curve will be an almost vertical line once you start winding boost in on the highflow. It will slowly build up to about 6-8psi over 1000 rpm or so and then just shoot up to what ever you decide to run in the next 200 (big turbo/small engine type response). You probably wont be able to spot the difference in spool time unless you plot runs back to back on a dyno.

I am running the stock actuator on my hks 2530, running 1.2 bar thru and ebc and have no issues at all. Infact i sold the hks adjustable that came with it becayse SK doesnt recomend the adjustable type.

Ive put the VG 30 turbo BB on my rb20 Ceffy but had to replace the engine before i could dyno it. Has anyone done this turbo set up and what results did they get??

I'm also running GTR fuel pump, 3" exhaust all the way through, twin dump pipe and bleed valve set at 18psi, Blitz BOV and pod.

Engine goes in next week and I will send her off to the dyno for figures, Which i'll post up

Ive put the VG 30 turbo BB on my rb20 Ceffy but had to replace the engine before i could dyno it. Has anyone done this turbo set up and what results did they get??

I'm also running GTR fuel pump, 3" exhaust all the way through, twin dump pipe and bleed valve set at 18psi, Blitz BOV and pod.

Engine goes in next week and I will send her off to the dyno for figures, Which i'll post up

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, I've been a little busy on this car. I replaced the bonnet struts which is always satisfying but very confusing that nobody else on the planet seems to do this. Its just my routine first thing I do on any car I buy. The boot struts for both the tailgate and the separately opening glass window was a bastard. And, I found a fair bit of rust in the strut cavity. I filled it with rust converter and cleaned up as much of the dirt as I could. There was so much dirt. One piece of the trim was barely hanging on and so I've left it off. I'll try to get a replacement. You can see how disgusting and dirty it all was in this thread; I had to remove the little clips that hold the struts on the ball. The ones I took off had no clips and it was impossible to get them on with them in place. Fingers crossed they stay put. So, I turned my attention to the headlights, they were in a bad way and likely would stop rego. I took the headlights out and found the adjusters were all just loose. So, I fixed those and unclipped the lenses to clean them up. Couldn't believe how easy it was to take all this apart compared to the E90.   I also cleaned up the stockies which was awesome, these are super cool with lug nut covers. They're in good nic but the tyres are shot. I was going to use these for rego but in the end got a fresh pair of rubber for the 17's on the front of the car instead. The front bar of this car is from a late(r) model one. I don't think it's quite LCI but who knows. I'll need to find out. Anyway, the bar was missing the fog lights and the wiring and plugs were for the original ones so I got new plugs and some cheap fogs. I wasn't sure if missing original equipment would hamper my blue slip attempts. Had a couple of these little fellas helping out. But not Ben who got stuck behind the pool heater .... How embarressment.  I ordered new speed sensors for all corners because I knew one was out. I just got cheapies and will replace them with Bosch items when I can find Bosch items. Again, this was just for rego. Alas, it seems the blue speed sensors are not the same as the grey ones. Back they went and replacements ordered. In the end, with my new scan tool, it was just rear left that was shot. Replaced it and cleared the codes. All good now. Lastly, my aux (thermo) fan is being a bit odd. Its powering up at strange times and NOT powering up when I think it should (100C). While this can be caused by a few things, the most likely (for me) is the ambient temp sensor. Given mine reads -40.0C regardless of the temp, I figured it would be good to replace it. In the end, the sensor wiring was abysmal with (terrible) attempts made by somebody to fix it.   I fixed this all up but the sensor is only attached using pins into the wires. The plug is not there. Despite trying and trying to connect it securely it wouldn't work so a replacement sensor and plug is on the way. Oh, I also ordered a replacement piece of trim for the part missing here at the bottom. Ordered from Latvia for $70 delivered. I took a bit of a leap of faith because I didn't have the exact part number and, as usual, there were eleventy billion pieces of trim that looked to fit. Nailed it. Well, its not totally perfect but I think its more a 28 y/o car problem than a trim problem. And, as of today ..... I have bought the workshop manuals 2nd hand off a guy in tassie. 1000+ pages of E39 goodness, hopefully it helps me with the fan. I also have a new temp switch on the way incase its the problem. Stoked.
    • I don't even know that you want an M2 Competition as a track car. My rule for a track car is only risk as much as you're willing to completely total out. Clean stock C5 Z06 Corvettes out here are cheap. Buying someone else's already ruined track car is even cheaper. Maybe I'm just not that good a driver but even a Fiesta ST on the Nordschleife felt like as much car as I could realistically handle.
    • I've already gone over the cam. A new one is going in. An old one is coming out! The new one is smaller, with less overlap. It has way more lift, but it will be more mild mannered (hopefully, probably very minorly) I'm also measuring for two more mufflers, with the goal of having four mufflers in my car. But that probably will be done by an exhaust shop in a drive in, measure, buy parts, install parts later kind of deal.
    • Mine is not even a GTR and I've been resisting the urge to make it a power monster for the last 25 years. And as a consequence, I have driven it to work nearly every day across that span of time.
    • Since the motor is out, I suggest pop in a nice dirty LS chop cam. MOAR of this please:  
×
×
  • Create New...