Removing Timing (front) Cover On My L6

[george.bryant]

Hey guys i've been going through the annoying process of chaing my headgasket incase you didnt know. Everything has gone good except for something that I was told has a pretty high chance of happening... The timing chain slipped a tooth and i couldnt get the cam sprocket to fit to the cam properly as the chain wasnt allowing me enough slack.

I got annoyed so i checked my chain wedge and it was a bit lose. Next thing I know i'm like 3 links shorter...then more...Then the tensioner had came lose and the arc or the chain wasnt there

I knew straight away that the chain had slipped so I just let it. Its being help up again now but it fairly short compared to before.

Obviously I have the get the front cover off and get everything realigned.

What exactly needs to be done to remove it? At the moment my radiator, distributor and oil pump are still attached so I'll take them off, the fan is also attached so how do I go about getting it off. WIll the crank pulley be in the way, it looks to me astho it will be. How do i remedy this?

Regards,

George

[SteveL]

What exactly needs to be done to remove it? At the moment my radiator, distributor and oil pump are still attached so I'll take them off, the fan is also attached so how do I go about getting it off. WIll the crank pulley be in the way, it looks to me astho it will be. How do i remedy this?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Crank pulley has to come off as do all the other things you mentioned. The other problem you have is that the sump is bolted to the front cover (front 3 or 4 bolts). The cover has locating pins which requires it to be moved forward before it can come out + it means breaking the seal/gasket at the sump. I've seen it done without removing the sump, but acheiving an oil tight seal is difficult.

Edited January 6, 2006 by SteveL

[george.bryant]

So how do I get that crank pulley off and the what about the fan?

[SteveL]

So how do I get that crank pulley off and the what about the fan?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Fan is bolted to the water pump via the viscous cluch hub - you should see 4 nuts holding it and the water pump pulley in place (ie bolting it to the water pump). Crank pulley/harmonic balancer is held in place by a large bolt up the centre - it's bolted to the crank. Bolt has 27mm hex head = 27mm socket. You'll need a large breaker bar + hold the crank stationary. If car is a manual you could try putting it in gear/handbrake on, etc.

[george.bryant]

Thank, i noticed those 4 nuts today when i was looking at how to get it off.

I've had a socket on that crank pulley bolt so i could get to TDC.

Car is automatic, how would i hold it stationary? Is this needed to undo that 27mm crank bolt? So I dont need to use a puller? Cause i dont have one and i was sure hoping i wouldn't have to purchase one

..I found this at http://www.gglotus.org/ggtech/esprit-timebelt/espritbe.htm

"Turn the crankshaft pulley attaching bolt using a 19 mm socket on the end of a pull bar and rotate the crankshaft clockwise until the pull bar touches the frame. Now bump the starter by using the ignition switch or by shorting the starter terminal on the solenoid if you are familiar with the procedure. The starter turns the engine in the correct direction to loosen the crankshaft pulley attaching bolt"

Should i do something like this?

Edited January 6, 2006 by george.bryant

[SteveL]

Car is automatic, how would i hold it stationary? Is this needed to undo that 27mm crank bolt? So I dont need to use a puller? Cause i dont have one and i was sure hoping i wouldn't have to purchase one

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Now that the camchain is off you will need to be very careful not to turn the crank - otherwise valves contact pistons, etc. You could back off the tappet adjustment and even remove the rockers entirely to avoid that problem.

With an auto you can remove the lower part of the bell-housing cover (ie under the car) and expose the back of the flex plate (flywheel) and also the ring gear. It's then possible to jam the ring gear with a wood block, etc (improvise) which should allow you to undo the crank bolt. Another way is to remove the starter motor and ditto.

You will need a puller for the pulley/balancer.

[george.bryant]

Thanks for that, all the valves are up pretty much except #2 exhaust and #3 inlet i think it is, they're out about 5% so its alright.

I'll do it the starter motor way as its kind of difficult getting under the gearbox as my cars cramped up in a garage and i really only have access to the front.

Are the pullers easier enough to use?

[SteveL]

Are the pullers easier enough to use?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

The 'claw' type is the most common but can be hard to fit between the pulley and the radiator panel depending on the design. Also sometimes hard to find somewhere to 'grip' on the pulley. If the pulley has a couple of threaded holes, there are pullers that use those, but they are less common.

[george.bryant]

Do you mean the radiator panel as in the radiator? cause i will be taking that out.

Ok i start my course again on monday (a automotive mechanics course), so i'll ask my tutor to show me how to use a puller.

[SteveL]

Do you mean the radiator panel as in the radiator? cause i will be taking that out.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Radiatior support panel is what the radiator is bolted to - structural panel at the front of the car.

[george.bryant]

I figured thats what you mean. So once I have the front cover off, how easy is it to fix this chain problem?

[george.bryant]

Does the puller look like this that i should use?

[SteveL]

I figured thats what you mean. So once I have the front cover off, how easy is it to fix this chain problem?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Best to get a WS manual of some description. It's a matter of lining up marked links on the chain with marks on the sprockets - far too much for me to explain here (my typing's not that good). There's also a tensioner at the bottom of the timing case which is the cause of all your problems - it's probably popped out and will need to be put back. You should inspect all the guides and tensioner will everythings off. You'll also need a set of gaskets for the timing cover.

[SteveL]

Does the puller look like this that i should use?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I have a large one like that which I've used, but some designs can have difficulty getting a grip. A two-legged one is sometimes better as it gives more options in terms of placement on the pulley (the timing cover can get in the way being quite close to the back of the pulley in places).

[george.bryant]

OK i managed to get that pulley off without a puller, and the front cover off. now for another big write up:

Ok!!! I finally got it off, after a shitload of CRC (WD40), a whole small can of it infact! And CRC gasket remover in the seam between the front cover and block. (I was very carefull not to get it near my near head gasket). Then about 10 mins later and alot of baking in the sun (its was 28 celcius here when i was doing it) i gave the four corners a whack with a hammer and it finally came lose!!

Then I cleaned all of the bits that came off with degreaser for a good hour.

They came up really nice!

While the degreaser was doing it's job I started working on the tensionner, chain and getting it the cam sprocket back on the cam (with the chain on it).

Now i'm a bit paranoid that in the whole process of getting the crankshaft pulley bolt out, that I moved it from TDC. My cam is set to how it was when I took the head off. I adjusted the crank to back to what should have been TDC on #1. Then I put the cam sprocket with chain back onto the cam.

Was that the correct thing to do? I have "How to Modify Datsun & Nissan Motors" and a Skyline FSM (doesnt actually cover the L20ET though, only the L20 (carb) and L24E. I'm pretty sure I set the timing correct in that perspective but im not sure. I tried going by the literature that I have. Someone PLEASE help me out, PM me if you dont feel like writing a reply to this.

How do I know that the cam is alligned with the crankshaft correctly? If the timings all messed up when I get it running again will it be a huge mission to correct it? ;etc etc

Regards,

George

[blind_elk]

The L-series were all set up so that there was a certain number of chain links between a mark (indent) on the crank chainwheel and a mark on the camwheel (42 springs to mind, but I'm not certain - it should certainly be in the workshop manual). You may be lucky in that on some of the chains, two links were actually slightly different "colour" to the rest; these are the ones you need to line up on the marks.

A safe alternative would be to just put the front cover back in place and position the crank pulley on the crankshaft so you have the timing marks available. Now set TDC, then un-assemble (if necessary).