Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, got my R33 about a month ago now and I'm so happy with the car, I just LOVE it. Problem is I got an amp and have NO idea where I should mount it in the back. I've seen all these pictures with peoples exotic setups and while I'd love to do that I just don't have the time at the moment. So if anyone has some ideas as to the best placement that I can have at the moment, by all means, let me know :mellow:

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101118-where-to-mount-my-amp/
Share on other sites

Dezz, yeah mate, got a sub in the back too, that actually sounds like a pretty decent idea, then I just have to get some angle brackets or something similar to keep the sub+amp from moving around in the back.

On the other hand, that looks quite a nice setup MintR33, seems pretty simple to do also but I may have the problem that my amp is too long to fit in the way that you have it, I'm not 100% sure but will check that tomorrow morning.

Thanks for the ideas fellas, I'll have a poke around tomorrow (got a day off!!! :rofl:) and see what eventuates

Randy, I'd like that if you could pass it on, but how long will it take before you let me know about your idea?

Well actually it's what d00dz has done. I'm measuring up all the sides of that partition, and working out a way to secure the mdf. My other problem is that my 12" Sony sub won't fit where I want it.

I was going to have the amp mounted to the left side, and the sub on the right, with the magnet of the sub poking into the empty space next to the battery. It's too big and doesn't clear my strut-brace.

d00dz... would you mind posting up a picture of your install and explaining how you mounted the mdf to the car? I'm looking for a way that doesn't involve drilling new holes in the boot.

Cheers!

Sorry mate, ive been flat out at work and comming home really late.. and no time/sun to take some pics.. Will try and do so in the next few days or so.

Basically its attatched to some L shaped brackets, the MDF board thingy that is. The L is attached to the metal beneath/behind the plastic divider.

d00dz... I figured as much. I was looking at a way where I can reuse the brackets that hold the plastic cover in place. They don't feel strong enough to hold thick MDF, a heavy amp, and a 12 or 10" sub.

I want it to be very removeable too, so that means minimum tools to get to the battery and service cover.

Can't wait to see your install! Maybe instead of a "how much money did you spend on audio stuff" thread, we should start a "post pics of your custom install" thread? =-D

hehe, mines nothing special.. its actually pretty gay IMO. not at all a good setup..

JVC mp3 unit from my old car

6" front and rears

Jaycar 4x130W amp (awesome and cheap one)

SONY sub (cost 50$ from a dude who only used it in his appartment).

Yea the MDF i have now is pretty hard to get to. Well two screws on either side of the bracket.

Im still not home, reckon wont get to take pics untill maybe tommorrow at 7, if the light is good... or ill just use my flash..

ill see... sorry for keeping you. ;)

Hey no drama's... i'm still sussing the situation out. If I can mount the MDF and I DIDN'T have a rear strut-brace, i'd be set cause my 12" would fit perfectly.

I'm looking at 10" subs now, to see if they'll clear the strut brace. Still looking around to see what mounting points I can use, then I'll write up a guide as I build mine.

Made my own parcel shelf too... looks so damn good that you would NEVER pick that it's stock apart from the big bolt-heads and washers where the child restrains were.

Surely you run the power cables through the other side of the boot lining? It looks too visible through that hole, but otherwise the plank of MDF looks good where it is! I was going to do that with the sub on one side and the amp on the other, but I couldn't see how to mount the MDF securely. Any chance of pics of the actual mounting?

I did that in my first car... moving the seat back and forth was a biatch.

My current and future amps are too large to go under there, plus it'd impede the airflow from the A/C vents under the seat, and then there's the wiring for the belt-buckle that would get in the way. =-]

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh yeah forgot to also mention need to also unplug the IACV as well. Thanks for the reminder @MBS206 Unplugging the TPS takes it out of closed loop so you're able to screw down the IACV without the ECU trying to add/subtract timing to maintain the idle (not sure PowerFC can even do this, but Nistune and the OEM definitely does)
    • For sale is my 1999 Nissan Skyline R34 GT-T, tuned to 234 kW / 313 hp. I've had the car for a few years as my daily driver. The car is original (as far as Skylines go), with only a few minor upgrades to enhance performance and driving experience, as typical for such a car of its age. Overall, it is in great condition with no body rust, thanks to its earlier import date. It features a top-notch security system (not literally, but it's great!) with remote start and still functional 4-wheel steering via HICAS. It comes with several performance and handling upgrades, including:     Hypergear 450HP Turbocharger running 17 PSI boost, installed mid-2021 by Jaustech     550cc injectors     Nistune ECU     Front-Mount Return-Flow Intercooler     X-Force Stainless Steel Exhaust     Upgraded engine mounts     Bottom end bearings replaced     BC Coilovers     Lenso DR1 rims     Bridgestone Potenza Adrenalin RE003 TL 245/40R18 97W tires, fitted early 2023 The interior is mostly stock, with a few additions:     Viper Satellite Tracking System with remote start     Bluetooth Double-Din Touchscreen Head Unit     Steering wheel cover Cons:     A few paint imperfections here and there     Driver’s seat shows more wear than the others. It's not torn at all, but I've added a seat cover to protect its condition. I also have a CarVX Vehicle History report available for serious buyers, so you don’t need to purchase it yourself. Price: $26,000 ONO.
    • I've had two suzukis in the past have an extremely hard time turning over and not starting after sitting for a few weeks. Ended up the alternator would seize up causing the starter to force. Same issue both times.  Maybe they're sourcing their alternators from the same place...
    • Ah right. Maybe my rb just loves chewing through batteries lol.
    • On the R34 can't you just unplug the IACV? This is the way I've always done it on the R33. Disconnect IACV, get it idling around 650rpm, and then do a power reset on the ECU to get it to relearn idle (factory ECU).   The big reason no one has touched on as to why you'd want to get the base idle right, is that it means the computer needs to make smaller adjustments to get a good idle at 700-750rpm.   Also, cleaning the IACV won't normally make the car suddenly idle lower or higher. The main issue with the IACV gumming up is that the valve sticks. This means the inputs the ECU gives, aren't translating to changes in air flow. This can cause idle choppy ness as the ECU is now needing to give a lot of input to get movement, but then it moves too far, and then has to do the same in reverse, and it can mean the ECU can't catch stalls quickly either.
×
×
  • Create New...