Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 58
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Hey man, installed similar cooler, on same car. Yeah fan blades need to be chopped. On the hybrid ones ther should be a connector on the tubing that goes into the throttle body for the return line on your solenoid, so that should be no dramas.

I chopped my front bar myself and it looks ok from the front but i made the mistake of letting my dad do the chopping with the angle grinder and he's a bit slap happy. I would have preferred to draw out where to cut etc etc, he just free handed it...

I'll get around to fixing it one day!!

To fit a genuine Hybrid, you will need to;

- mount the vaccum hose nipple to the intake pipe.

- Trim fan

- Cut a 4" hole through the car body, under the wash bottle

- Enlarge the std ic hole on the other side

- Cut front bar reo.

- Trim front bar plastic to clear fmic

- Yell out a whole lot of swear words, and curse at Hybrid and there so called "bolt on kit" :unsure:

If you are not confident, or good, at being hands on with you car, then this is the worse thing to start with. Better option may be to go to someone you can trust to do a neat job.

lol i'm with Al especially with the swearing bit. Ended up taking me like 14- 15 hours (first time i'd removed front bar!!) and i think i now have the copyright on most swear words.

Also like he said, if in doubt get it done by a pro. But if you do it yourself, might wanna get some paint to quickyl spray over the hole you cut in the body etc to stop rust forming.

If you pm me your email addy i can email you the hybrid instuctions.

Haven't got a pic of my mate's engine bay. (Mine was done/made by mechanic years ago) But I placed the nipple near the power steering reservoir, just b4 the bend. You will need to drill and ‘tape’ the pipe.

My mechanic by-passed the need for the nipple by slicing another air line and "T"ing in the solenoid line.

  • 3 weeks later...

Thanks alot for these instructions mate:)

- Trim fan

- Cut a 4" hole through the car body, under the wash bottle

- Enlarge the std ic hole on the other side

- Cut front bar reo.

- Trim front bar plastic to clear fmic

- Yell out a whole lot of swear words, and curse at Hybrid and there so called "bolt on kit"

Im with you on the swear words hahaha, im about 7 hours in so far lol, and still going, i too have only ever taken off my front for the first time few issues im coming accross:

1)cut the front reo to make way for cooler, cooler sits nicely now, didnt need to drill holes 250ml; apart as per instructed as they were already there:)

2)the 4" hole i need to make is obstructed by a holder which is plugged into 3 plugs

3) how do i go about extending the std i/c hole?, and why do we need to do this?, i find this area tricky as i couldnt get my pipework to meet on both ends without one end slipping off all the time!!!, though i havent extended the hole yet.

4) i have an auto trasmission cooler, which now is behind the intercooler, could this affect its cooling to an extent?

5) the pipe going accross the engine is seriously low, and it looks as though i mite to trim heaps off of the fanblades, which im in no position to do, workaround????, this is one of my main concerns

id say im about 40% complete, the reos cut, and the coolers on, now the hard part.....the PIPEWORk, and getting it all to fit

p.s how much of the piping has to be over the hoses before clamping them down???

1/ not sure what instructions you are refering to.

2/ Need to see a pic, or just move unit as pipe will need to pass there.

3/ I was too breif with my explanation.

If you are running a pod it is a great opertunaty to get some real cold air to it. Using 4" water drain pipes i managed to get air from the side vent in the bar to the unused hole. To maximise the flow i increased the size of the unused hole to 4".

4/ Yes very slightly, but don't worry about it as i have mounted my aftermarket eng. oil cooler in the same location :D

5/ Define "low". Some trimming is a must, but it shouldn't be alot. At a guess probably about 20mm on the horizontal edge and about 30mm on the vertical side, closest to the pipe.

6/ The pipes all have a "lip" the rubber needs to clear the lip and have enough over for the width of the clamp. The clamp must not overhang the edge of the rubber.

To compare how low you pipework is, refer to pic below:

post-1811-1138364472.jpgpost-1811-1138364528.jpg

NOTE: My fmic is not a Hybrid kit, but it should look very similar to this as both my mates' kits are.

PS: Using a little soapy water round the edge of the rubber pipes makes things a little easier. Soapy water will also evaporate and dry up, unlike oil, grease, etc.

i did a hybrid FMIC on my other white R33 i used to own.... what a bitch of a job.... shattered a 9" cutting through the front bar support and just getting the right cut out for the cooler to sit in, then cutting the fire wall, playing with the front bar etc etc etc... yer well it was my first go at anything like it and i got it in the end.... wasnt a TO bad job... bar was a little dodgy but hey what can ya do..

heres a couple of pics from it..

P1010001.jpg

P1010003.jpg

P1020003.jpg

P1050003.jpg

Hey al, ,my bumper now looks very similar to yuors after having it trimmed/welded professionally:), my cooler sits behind the reo bar, so i should have more than anough clearence for the type m front no (no further trimming) is this correct.And will the healdights/tailights need trimming?

Osiris....i trimmed my reo in the same manner as you, still keeping the main support intact, think it works very welll:)

Edited by nsta

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not R7R. Meant to type R&R, obviously enough.
    • Bugger "making it look stock". I put one conventional internally fused Hella relay behind each globe. I just pulled the plugs off the back of the globes and built new loom segments with male and female plug parts to match up to the original loom and the globe, and used the original power wires to each globe coming from the switch through the original loom plug to trigger the relays. Ran a big fat (also separately fused) power wire across the front of the car to feed all the relays. It's as ugly as f**k, but it is wedged down between the headlight and battery on the RHS and the airbox and headlight on the LHS, and no-one ever looks in my engine bay, and on the odd occasion that they do I simply give no f**ks for what they think. Fully reversible - not that you'd ever want to. For f**k's sake. It's a Skyline. They made million of the bloody things. We've been crashing them into roadside furniture for 30 years now. There is a negative side effect to putting relays on the headlights. The coil current is too little to properly clean the contacts in the switches and they get blacked up and you have to open them up every couple of years and clean them manually. I have 25 years of experience on this point.
    • I was poking through the R34 wiring diagrams vs R33 and noticed that the R34 has proper headlight relays while the R33 is like the R32 and sends full headlight power through the headlight switch. I'm not afraid of wiring but I really would like to do this in a way that looks OEM (clipping into open positions on the OEM relay box) and also unlike the factory wiring which interlocks the high beam and low beam on the halogen series 1 GTR headlights I want to make it such that turning on the high beams keeps the low beams on as well. Any advice on how to locate the specific connectors + crimp terminals + relays I need? I was thinking one NO relay for low beams and another for combined high + low running off the factory high beam headlight connector. I don't really want to splice into a crusty old probably discontinued factory harness so fully reversible is my goal here.
    • Pretty sure they run the same engine as the Q50 hybrid which specifies 95 RON.  I ran 98 in mine for a while, but it made no difference in performance or economy, so I have been using 95 for the last few years.  I have never hit 6.0L/100km, but have returned mid to high 6 on the highway.  Being a hybrid, fuel economy is a lot more dependant on how you drive it.  At 110km/h, mine never goes into EV mode on the highway, so returns closer to 7.5L/100. urban driving can return low 8s if you are careful or over 10 if you are a bit more enthusiastic on the throttle.
    • About a quarter of what you want to do. It's only R7R, not R&dismantle&replaceparts&reassemble&R. ? It is stock. I already told you, you will NOT have broken those. It's f**king 4th gear for Christ's sake. You just chipped the teeth off.
×
×
  • Create New...