Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

atleast its something to do, better than no auto salon, im not a fan of the bling ether but ya syill have to look at the car and respect how much time and thought, and money might of gone into it then judge it, not wether it;s your taste or not, plus there is always a fair bit of shnanny walkin around there, helps pass the time.

  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I just found that the cars where plain as, you see better cars on the roads.

Last year there was a GTT there that was auto and totally stock and looked like shit.

whats the point it being there? my car is better?

Well I think you should enter you car then, maybe it will make this years more interesting. :D Just jokes mate!

I think if we get a good turn out it would be an enjoyable event, I know I'd go to check out our display and squizy at others.

was that the black GTT? with C-west body kit I think....

there's only 1 other GTT in the show the white colour wiht bomex and NOS in the car.....no GTR r34 yet then...so any GTT will look impressive..kekeke

The dyno comps are always a highlight, I forgot to mention those. I remember one year there was a white GTT that was very low and had a sweet kit on it. Anyways when the tried to get it onto the rollers, it was too low and cracked the side skirts slightly! That same year there was also a genuine Tommy Kaira R34 that was very cool. Like I said there's always a few good surprises such as these!

The dyno comps are always a highlight, I forgot to mention those. I remember one year there was a white GTT that was very low and had a sweet kit on it. Anyways when the tried to get it onto the rollers, it was too low and cracked the side skirts slightly! That same year there was also a genuine Tommy Kaira R34 that was very cool. Like I said there's always a few good surprises such as these!

I was running the dyno comp that year, and the Tommy Kaira R34 made less than stock power, the owner was disappointed.

Yeah it was a GTT that cracked the side skirts, I warned him beforehand but he still wanted on.

GT Nik managed to get his car on the dyno, except when they use the DynoPak hub dyno.

Cheers

Paul

I've enjoyed some of the previous events as well but have noticed a trend for most of the cars to down the blinged up/big chrome rims route which isn't really to my tastes. *Sometimes* I've noticed better cars out in the carpark! Still there's always a few surprises to be had.

thats funny because last year we saw a bayside glue r34 GTR in the carpark that was pretty dirty but still looked hot as.

thats funny because last year we saw a bayside glue r34 GTR in the carpark that was pretty dirty but still looked hot as.

You know I think I saw this same/similar GTR as well! It did look very sweeeet, wish I'd taken a pic. B)

Edited by MacGuyver

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...