Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all,

when i pulled the boost resricter out i got this annoying surge,so im just going to put in dual stage and get it back down so that it will stop doing it...

there is one prob how the f**k u surposed to hook it up.it just looks like a big ass job

so if anyone could shed some light it would great thanks

kane

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101190-dual-stage-in-r32-gtr/
Share on other sites

easy, just hook it up just before the actuators with a t-piece... on the turbo side of the engine...not on the other side, it wont work...then u can put the restrictor back in and have lower stock boost...and then use the dual stage to up it...

Edited by oRiCLe

we found where the 2 actuaters meet as it is a twin turbo,so it is the same as a single turbo car,as we just hooked a boost tap into me mates 180sx,also then run a switch to the inside of car to flick between the 2 levelas of boost

yep, same as a single turbo, just stick a t-piece with an actuator in each side, the boost controller out the other one and then run the boost controller up to where the other hose used to come off and block off the other one...(where the metal pipe comes round, there will be an outlet for each turbo, just use one and block the other)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know you don't want to hear this comment, but I can't not say it.  I just can't see 200kw being worth the time and effort. Its like guys with NA cars, putting in headers/exhaust/tune for a massive 20% jump in power. Great, the slow car is still slow and you're down $10,000.  My vote is leave it NA or price in a gearbox upgrade and shoot for at least 300KW, preferably 350KW+.  Now you have a NC that will try to kill you from time to time and will be exciting to drive
    • Ah yep. The main message I want to pass on is, try not to get scared of ghosts when thinking about knock/knock detection.  What I mean is, healthy engines make noise. Knock is also noise. Your knock sensor and ECU combo are trying to determine bad noise from good noise based on how loud the noise is. The factory knock sensors and ECU are not good at doing this.  Modern ECU's are pretty decent at it, however I'd still say that you would want to verify that if your ECU says it's knock, that you actually listen to it and confirm that it is correct.  Are you familiar with the plex knock monitor?  https://www.plex-tuning.com/products/plex-knock-monitor-v3/ I expect you're the type of person that would be very keen to play with something like this. It is great knock detection and you can pop some headphones on and listen to what's going on.  Knock that you've deliberately induced in low load low RPM areas is not really putting anything at risk and is a great tuning/learning/verification tool.  I just thought this was worth mentioning based on the way you were talking about setting up a base map and the Haltech base map settings. There are better ways to spend your time then chasing ghosts and worrying about detonation in scenarios that it is crazy unlikely to encounter it.  I was also wondering, what ECU are you planning to get? Will it be long til you pick it up?
    • This came quicker than I thought. It ain't even 2025 yet.
    • I somehow quoted my post instead of editing it. I regret nothing.
    • STOP GOOGLING FAB9 MAKE BORG WARNER EFR KITS FOR THE NC. THEY PACKAGE AN EFR 6758. DO NOTHING ELSE. CAPS INTENTIONAL. THE BEST RESPONSIVE SETUP EXISTS FOR YOUR CAR, AND HAS BEEN PROVEN FOR QUITE SOME TIME NOW. IN B4 "BUT I WANT EVEN MORE RESPONSE, IN A SIMPLER, MORE RELIABLE PACKAGE" WHICH IS A LS.
×
×
  • Create New...