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Few Issues With Car (r32): Help Diagnose Pls?

esprit

By esprit,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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esprit Proficient

esprit

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Hey everyone,

Recently bought an R32 GTS-4 which I'm pretty happy with. It however has a few little issues I would really love to fix up to get it running 100%. These are:

1) Car won't pull hard all the way to redline, it boosts perfectly in the mid-range but over about 4500rpm the rate of acceleration is much slower than getting up to 4500. Was told this could be because the car is running really rich or something? Any ideas? I have a feeling it could be ignition related, coilpacks?

2) Car sometimes makes a backfire type noise when I put the pedal down about half way, and say rev to 3000, then quickly put the clutch in to change. Could this be because of the car running rich and having excess fuel there?? Not sure if this is a backfire or "missfire".

3) The car has some kind of heavy duty clutch, and when I put the pedal in really quickly it will sometimes stall. However if I put the pedal in more gradually, it won't. Sometimes it'll go down to 0rpm and everything will cut out then it'll come back on by itself, sometimes it'll just stall and Ihave to turn ignition on again.

Would taking the car to a dyno tuner rectify my problems?

Thanks

EDIT - Forgot to mention, the car is pretty much stock apart from a Kakimoto 3" turbo back system. Still has stock air box, and boost etc.

Edited by esprit
esprit Proficient

esprit

Posted
  • Author
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your car makes very similer problems to mine!

im going to try and replace my AFM

The guy who sold the car had replaced the AFM before selling it, so I don't think thats the issue. Could be with yours, who knows.

esprit Proficient

esprit

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Forgot to mention, another annoying little thing is when the car is idling, it makes some kind of noise like a fan spinning, its quite audible. When you press the clutch in this noise completely goes away.... anyone know what that could be?

  • 3 weeks later...
TTT Grand Master

TTT

Posted
Posted

go to a dyno place and when it's on the dyno and they run it, you will see if the car is running rich.

the clutch sound could be a few things.

Multiple plate clutches seem to make noise when not engaged.

it could also be the bearings in the clutch.

it could be that the flywheel was not machined when the new clutch went in.

stalling problem.. don't know..

missfire is when it misses a beat..

backfire sounds more like a pop or bang.

missfire happens when there is a miss with the spark for one of many reasons.

backfire happens due to excess fuel not being burnt in the combustion chamber and then exploding once in the exhaust area.

so... if you have the boot in and the revs are rising, boost is up and the car sort of cuts and comes back real quick... this is missfire...

if you have the boot in, then shift gears, if you have excess fuel (which happens on stock ecu with a bit more boost), you will hear a pop or bang from the exhaust... this is backfire.

car not pulling to red line..

it seems normal(ish) for a stock turbo'd old r32 rb20 to do that..

gets full boost (10 psi) by about 3000rpm then pulls hard till about 4500rpm then it still revs up and pulls, but not like it did from 3000-4500rpm..

I don't think there is anything weird about that.

you can fix it or make it less obvious by doing these 2 things together..

1.) buy one of those cheap $22 boost controllers that there is a thread about on these forums.

even if you don't increase the boost (which you probably shouldn't with stock intercooler), it is designed to bring on boost quicker than standard as it keeps the wastegate shut for longer.

2.) you should also disconnect your stock blow off valve, and look at the bottom of it.. you will see a tiny little hole next to the big piston of the bov.

block up that little hole with a small flat head screw.

make sure it seals good.

put the bov back on as it was and your all good.

car will build boost MUCH quicker and hold it better and therefore will feel better above 4500rpm.

you gotta remember that your GTS4 is about the same weight as a GTR (1450kg or something)

so the torque free 2L will feel sluggish.

these 2 mods above which cost less than $50 will make a world of difference to cars responsiveness.

You won't put any more stress on anything as you will not be making any more power (maybe a tiny bit) but boost response and reving it feels alot better.

Mine gets around from 4500-6500 almost as quick as from 3000-4500rpm.

same car but more door.

esprit Proficient

esprit

Posted
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Hey thanks for the response. All problems are now fixed and the car is running great!

I got a multimeter and tested coils, every single on of them = f**ked. Got a set of awesome condition ones off kezza on here (cheers ;) ).

I did an engine oil, oil filter, and fuel filter change yesterday, only to find the original fuel filter was proper rooted, I wouldn't be surprised if it was the original filter that came when the car was first sold! Changed that all and the car flies now, it really moves nicely to redline :) This could be due to the addition of one of those boost controllers sold on here, an hks pod, and an hks ssqv bov. I've got boost set to 11.5psi and am careful with how often I get up it, always let it warm down etc. I'm really pleased with how the car is running now, just have to get a set of new tyres for it :P

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