Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys.

I am in the process of finding a workshop around brisbane to rebuild my r32 gtr engine.

I have had a few rough quotes up around $10000!!!!!

Is this about right or are the shops ripping me off?

One shop said the parts alone with forged pistons will be around $4400!!!!!!!!

How much should the parts cost and how much in labour is reasonable?

Any workshop recommendations would be great too!

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101265-rb26-rebuild/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 56
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hi guys.

I am in the process of finding a workshop around brisbane to rebuild my r32 gtr engine.

I have had a few rough quotes up around $10000!!!!!

Is this about right or are the shops ripping me off?

One shop said the parts alone with forged pistons will be around $4400!!!!!!!!

How much should the parts cost and how much in labour is reasonable?

Any workshop recommendations would be great too!

Cheers.

Hmmm, all depends what they are putting in.

we can do a basic package with new set of forged pistons starting at $4000 fully built.

while its out you may want to consider an oil pump.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101265-rb26-rebuild/#findComment-1849617
Share on other sites

Hi guys.

I am in the process of finding a workshop around brisbane to rebuild my r32 gtr engine.

I have had a few rough quotes up around $10000!!!!!

Is this about right or are the shops ripping me off?

One shop said the parts alone with forged pistons will be around $4400!!!!!!!!

How much should the parts cost and how much in labour is reasonable?

Any workshop recommendations would be great too!

Cheers.

What places have you got quotes from?

To save money ide suggest getting the parts yourself and then getting a quote for assembly/machining/labour etc

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101265-rb26-rebuild/#findComment-1855605
Share on other sites

It all depends on what you are going to do in your rebuild.

A basic rebuild will cost you minimal in parts but a "hot motor" rebuild will pop $10k in parts before you start.

You will need to be more specific with what (and why) you are going for in a rebuild.

What broke?

Are you going for extras?

Are you going for power, strength or both?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101265-rb26-rebuild/#findComment-1856255
Share on other sites

$4000...wtf....thats what just the head cost to do.....good luck with your $4000 engine.

thats what i was thinking... well not just head cost.

for a 100% stock rebuild, stock pistons etc etc 5k.

10k easily. Ive spent that on my 26, and thats without rods.

Your @ a grand (as the least) before you start with motor in/out costs.

Then add the parts up for a 100% standard rebuild and then your into the 3k mark already without labour

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101265-rb26-rebuild/#findComment-1856324
Share on other sites

For $ 4000 you will get R+R engine out of the car, pull everything appart , inspect, and machining and if your lucky basic service on the cil head and give you a quote on the parts you will need . Depending on what parts you want to change but retail prices for basic stuff like pistons , rings , bearings oil+water pump timing belt and a set of gaskets $2.5-$3 k. If you find any nasty surprises ( and you will )It can go up a lot more from there .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101265-rb26-rebuild/#findComment-1856447
Share on other sites

$4000 for the head alone is insane unless you are trying to build some 11 second drag car. Head reco with cleaning, shaving, all new seals and guides, pressure testing should be 700-900.

$4000 for a standard motor alone is more like it but like r31nismoid said you need to allow 1000-1500 for someone to take the motor in and out as well.

And since you've already spent $5k, most people choose to spend another $1k and get brand new forged pistons while it is out. Plus they are probably cheaper than new nissan pistons

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101265-rb26-rebuild/#findComment-1856799
Share on other sites

I only got the gtr about 3 months ago and it has been off the road for most of that.

The turbos were shagged when i got it! so i was up for 2 newwies straight up.I got two new garret 25/60 turbos which weren't cheap .When the workshop was dyno tuning it apparently they heard one of the pistons knocking so they stopped the dyno tune immediately and i got the car home just!

and thats how its been since then,sounds like it will blow any minute and now i have to save up the money to get the engine rebuilt.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101265-rb26-rebuild/#findComment-1857813
Share on other sites

hi martyf1champ07

for interest sake you can get a brand new N1 R26 for 10 grand( i know as this the road i originally took),

it really depends on what you intend to do with the car, or the level of mods required.

may pay to get a second opinion on whats wrong too.

cheers russ

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101265-rb26-rebuild/#findComment-1858489
Share on other sites

If its making a knocking noise as the OP said (pistons knocking) id be pretty sure its 99.9% spun bearings, which as everyone else has said, happens all too often with the cheap gtr's.

SXR - Whats included in a basic rebuild? Does it include new pumps (with a long nosed crank for the oil pump, or a crank collar), harmonics (belts, tensioners etc), quick head service while its apart because it will probably need it?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101265-rb26-rebuild/#findComment-1859135
Share on other sites

$4000 for the head alone is insane unless you are trying to build some 11 second drag car.  Head reco with cleaning, shaving, all new seals and guides, pressure testing should be 700-900.

Good quality bronze guides are around $400 and about the same money for the same quality seals...thats without even fitting installation etc. Give me the name of your head guy so i can get him to do my next engine....then again the ammount of engines you have been through...maybe not. Factor in camshafts, valve springs gaskets seals etc and a very mild port job and $4000 is very easily spent. We weren't even considering draging the motor when i built it as it was designed for circuit use only.

It really depends if you want a slap-together engine that you have to baby to keep together that is easily broken or a reliable engine that you can push hard without worry.

$10 000+ for a relaible engine that does low 10's at the track repeatably is an absolute bargain.....ask some of the v8 boys what they spend on engines to go this quick.

Edited by DiRTgarage
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101265-rb26-rebuild/#findComment-1859227
Share on other sites

my gtr motor

3kparts including forged pistons oil pump water pump, vrs kit and two used r33 turbos

550 for machining balance rub tug and suck

then put it back togther

20 thousand km of drifting/burnouts/cicuit later she still good and running over 300rwkw

oh yea and the head cost 50 bux for a shave

when it dies timefor forged rods 3.1 litre and ill get the head ported and camed less than 6 k in parts and work

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101265-rb26-rebuild/#findComment-1859443
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Man, different parts but the same numbers is terrible @dbm7! And it doesn't help that most online shops don't list the part numbers at all. They just give a list of compatible models...
    • Slow when hot could also be because its getting more dynamic compression, OR things are getting a bit tighter once it is all expanded. If it were an earthing issue, typically I'd expect you to have it have issues all the time. Unless it's really a combination of both things. Where the higher compression, and things being a bit tighter, is giving that bit of extra load and you do need a slight clean up on the cables/connections.
    • Yeah, this is one of the most annoying things about nissan part numbers... I've got an unrelated example... Image is of the AT output shaft ~ they have the same part#, but clearly the shaft on the left is beefier design to that on the right ...the difference (essentially) is the 'lighter' shaft on the right, is for engines up to RB25DE (this includes RB20 variants) : the shaft on the left is for RB25/26DET(T)....are they interchangeable? Yes...but obviously one shaft is going to be stronger than the other...and, the lighter shaft is around USD115, but the heavier shaft closer to USD150...same part#... ...epc-data usually tells a tale ~ the amayama listing for 39100-23U60 has a note "Longest side is between 60 and 105 cm" ; no such info is there for 39100-23U70 ...and given the great disparity in price between the 2 parts, it makes me at least curious (to the point of caution) where the 'extra money' went? ...ie; these 2 parts have a cost difference that (to myself at least) isn't explained by 'plastic boot'...ie; with amayama there's AUD700 price difference ...plastic versus rubber?...I'm not seeing it like that...and 60cm ~ 105cm...??...that's a huge disparity....something hinky going on here... I'd try searching by VIN, not model... /2cents
    • I don't know for sure, but I'd expect them all to be interchangeable given the diff end and hub end don't move/change between any C34 series. Often Nissan will change part numbers and the aftermarket follows those year ranges; but the original part number change doesn't mean other parts won't fit. The change could be a change in material, internal parts or even just supplier. For example, all the RB gearbox to engine bolts are no longer available and there is a new part number instead. The only change is they went from cadmium plated bolts to zinc plated due to the issues manufacturing with Cadmium. They look different but work the same.
×
×
  • Create New...