Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

well im looking at doing my first import, an r34 gt-t 1998. Note very familiar with what it involves as far as raw's and so on... can any1 who has done their own import let me know of what it cost them?? what it involves??

would be great to find out if its even worth my while!!

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101500-importing-an-r34/
Share on other sites

Importing car costs:

1. Purchase cost of car in Japan*

2. Shipping, wharf, customs and agent fees (about $2k)

3. Shipping insurance (optional)

4. Import duty (10% duty plus 10% GST)

5. Compliance (get a quote from nearby workshops - budget $5k in the mean time and be happy if it is less!)

6. Tyres ($varies)

7. Alarm/Immobiliser ($varies)

8. Stamp Duty (varies from state to state)

9. Licensing and Registration (varies from state to state)

10. Also might want to include a service, wash and full professional detail as the vehicle will have been sat unused for months and will be absolutely filthy.

*(include auction fees, import agent fees, money transfer fees etc.)

Anyone else feel free to jump in if I forgot anything. It is a while since I imported my car...

Add all these together and you will have your total cost. Usually if you import through an importer, they will organise everything Japan side for you (you just follow their payment instructions). It will usually take a month or two from the time of purchase for it to arrive in Australia. You will have to organise transport of the vehicle from the wharf to the workshop (if you plan to tow, include that cost too), as well as organising a customs agent (they should be able to recommend one), and organising compliance (they should be able to recommend a good workshop).

When I imported my R32 GTS-T, the cost of the vehicle in Japan (about $3k) was less than half of the total on road cost (about $9k - still a bargain!), so beware that the additional costs can add up very quickly! And that was under the 15yo rule - full compliance will be more expensive.

Edited by Big Rizza

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes...but look at the numbers. There is a tiny tiny fraction of the number of Joules available, compared to what is used/needed. Just because things are "possible" doesn't make them meaningful.
    • Thanks for taking the time to post that ! If anything changes or happens please do update us. 
    • Somehow Vertimass/Oak Ridge National Labs has figured out a catalyst that can convert ethanol into C9-C10 hydrocarbons in basically a single step without ending up with a bunch of ethylene or similar waste products: https://patents.google.com/patent/WO2023224867A1/en I still don't think anything like this will keep us from needing to transition to EVs regardless along with all kinds of other electrification, but things like this will go a long way towards alleviating the problem of how to electrify things like planes. Renewable diesel is seemingly an easier problem as well, Chevron is already running refineries for the stuff and the primary feedstock is tallow and other waste fats from agriculture.
    • Ok so I have sorted everything with my uniclutch and  i can offer up a bit of feedback and some things that might help others.    I found problems with factory damper line. Weird shit and had trouble with peddle adjustment    I used this https://au.gktech.com/products/r33-gts-t-skyline-braided-clutch-line?_pos=2&_sid=22b01b9b9&_ss=r Also when adjusting peddle leave a bit of play. You can get into a over stroke condition easy.. Make sure you can push the slave forward after adjusting to confirm fluid can return to master then you will need to pump it up heaps…..not sure why but that’s how it is.    last thing the splined adapter is machined perfectly. If your input shaft is old like mine was I would put a bit of valve grinding paste on it and stroke it like a 15 year old. Just to give it a tad more clearance and to better match it to the spline.    reason is on a near flat shift I have had situation where the peddle returns a millisecond after you lift from the clutch. No slip or anything but I reckon this is due to tolerance on the spline being way tighter than stock clutch and binding for a sec. I think this will go away but also my spline was old. Box is old so I guess I should have checked better. It’s a super neat fit.    it feels light as and holds awesome without any noise    
    • My Fuga Hybrid is JDM, 2014 model but very similar to the V37 from the looks of things..same platform just physically larger and very comfortab;e
×
×
  • Create New...