Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Lads,

I got a RB20DET with twin thermo fans on radiator no air con condenser or anything all ripped out when driving my temp gauge reads....60-70 degrees which i think is a little low but once the car starts to sit in traffic it will jump right up to 90 degrees and start to over heating and start boiling the radiator fluid and spitting it out the over flow tank etc....

Im wonder i have a R33 Radiator in my car also would would be the best way of keep my car cool....vents in bonnet.

What about a new thermo stat that opened up earlier what would this help with.....can i please get some good import as with what to do about my position im in.

Im also putting in new knock sensors as mine are dead dont think this has anything to do with the heating issues but.

Thanks.

- Luke :(:):D

Another basic option is to hook one of the fans to a switch and just turn it on when the car is in traffic, i have it for hot nights and particularly warm days, if its gets any hotter than 1/2 then the other one kicks in due to the thermostat. But of late i did have a few issues with the radiator :(

If it's not overheating when driving around, but does when in traffic then your issue is most likley the thermos.

What size are you running and how are they configured?

Ideally you want to get the biggest fan(s) you can fit purely because they can blow/suck a lot more air than a smaller one (davies craig claim that a single 16 can flow more air than a pair of 12's).

Also, the fans can have the blades flipped over and the polarity of the wiring reversed depending on how its mounted. It would be a good idea to check that they have been set up correctly for your mounting style.

And last. Most fans seem to do a better job when blowing air through the radiator rather than sucking it through. If you can mount your fan infront it may help a bit too.

And flush your radiator while you are at it.

Good luck, overheating sucks arse.

I have 2 fans mounted on the frount of my radiator....i think i might need a new thermo stat as car runs on 70 when general driving but over heats in traffic etc.....

Might have a switch to turbo fans on and off for general driving then when slamming it turn them back on.

- Luke

If your really worried about it, take the thermo stat out of the car, and order a new one from nissan... my thermo stat is ruined so i just took mine out as im waiting for it to come from japan,with a few other parts. Car just takes a little longer to heat up thats all... not good for long term, but i figure its better then having the gauge on H the entire time (i.e cooking the engine)

Dayne

Mine does not cook but it will if i let it.....driving around daily its cold but not in traffic....i think i need a thermostat to make my car run hotter at like 70-80 degrees normal driving and for it to stay under 100 when i smash it.

- Luke

You're absolutely sure they work when the engine's running? And you're absolutely sure they BLOW air through the radiator?

I doubt the thermostat has anything to do with it overheating. If it was going to overheat, it's more likley to do it when the engine is working hard, not when it's just sitting idling.

The standard thermostat is supposed to be around 78C, IIRC.

Err..... have you changed the radiator yet or had it checked out yet? My mate had the same problem. We ended up changing the thermostat, water pump, timing belt, reflushed the cooling system and check the thermo-fans before we changed the radiator. I work at a delearship and the first thing you should do if you have overheating issues with those symptons should be to replace the radiator or have it fixed.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lucky man, who owns it in the family? Any pics? 
    • The engine stuff is Greg Autism to the Max. I contacted Tony Mamo previously from AFR who went off to make his own company to further refine AFR heads. He is a wizard in US LS world. Pretty much the best person on earth who will sell you things he's done weird wizard magic to. The cam spec is not too different. I have a 232/234 .600/603 lift, 114LSA cam currently. The new one is 227/233 .638 .634. The 1.8 ratio roller rockers will effectively push this cam into the ~.670 range. These also get Mamo'ified to be drilled out and tapped to use a 10mm bolt over an 8mm for better stability. This is what lead to the cam being specced. The plan is to run it to 6800. (6600 currently). The Johnson lifters are to maintain proper lift at heavy use which is something the LS7's supposedly fail at and lose a bit of pressure, robbing you of lift at higher RPM. Hollow stem valves for better, well everything, Valve train control. I dunno. Hollow is better. The valves are also not on a standard valve angle. Compression ratio is going from 10.6 to 11.3. The cam is smaller, but also not really... The cam was specced when I generated a chart where I counted the frames of a lap video I had and noted how much of the time in % I spent at what RPM while on track at Sandown. The current cam/heads are a bit mismatched, the standard LS1 heads are the restriction to power, which is why everyone CNC's them to get a pretty solid improvement. Most of the difference between LS1->LS2->LS3 is really just better stock heads. The current cam is falling over about 600rpm earlier than it 'should' given the rest of my current setup. CNC'ing heads closes the gap with regards to heads. Aftermarket heads eliminate the gap and go further. The MMS heads go even further than that, and the heads I have in the box could quite easily be bolted to a 7.0 427ci or 454 and not be any restriction at all. Tony Mamo previously worked with AFR, designed new heads from scratch then eventually founded his own business. There he takes the AFR items and performs further wizardry, CNC'ing them and then manually porting the result. He also ports the FAST102 composite manifold: Before and after There's also an improved racing crank scraper and windage tray. Helps to keep oil in the pan. Supposedly gains 2% power. Tony also ports Melling oil pumps, so you get more oil pressure down low at idle, and the same as what you want up top thanks to a suitable relief spring. There's also the timing chain kit with a Torrington bearing to make sure the cam doesn't have any thrust. Yes I'll post a before and after when it all eventually goes together. It'll probably make 2kw more than a setup that would be $15,000 cheaper :p
    • Because the cars wheels are on blocks, you slide under the car.   Pretty much all the bolts you touched should have been put in, but not fully torque up.   Back them off a turn or two, and then tighten them up from under the car with the wheels sitting on the blocks holding car up in the air.
    • Yes. Imagine you have the car on the ground, and you mine away all the ground under and around it, except for the area directly under each individual wheel. That's exactly how it'd look, except the ground will be what ever you make the bit under each wheel from
    • Yes, if you set the "height" right so that it's basically where it would be when sitting on the wheel. It's actually exactly how I tighten bolts that need to be done that way. However....urethane bushes do NOT need to be done that way. The bush slides on both the inner and outer. It's only rubber bushes that are bonded to the outer that need to be clamped to the crush tube in the "home" position. And my car is so full of sphericals now that I have very few that I need to do properly and I sometimes forget and have to go back and fix it afterwards!
×
×
  • Create New...