Jump to content
SAU Community

L24e Acceleration Hesertation Help

mr30_2.4e
 Share

Recommended Posts

mr30_2.4e Enthusiast

mr30_2.4e

Posted
Posted

Hi my r30 is playing up it has the l24e motor.

Its hesertating really bad anwere between 2500 and 4000 rpm. If i give it 2 here it seems to happen at any rpm.

i have just put new spark plugs leads and repaired the distributor. i have set the timing to 10 degrees. and the motor is running alot smoother since i bought the car. also when i bought the skyline it had been running on gas and had it taken out before i got it and was tuned to gas is the timing the only setting changed when try to switch back to petrol.

any help would be grate as i am getting very frustrated lol :worship:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101555-l24e-acceleration-hesertation-help/
Share on other sites
mr30_2.4e Enthusiast

mr30_2.4e

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ahh its still doing it after replacing leads. if i gently build up speed with little accelerator there is no hesertation right through the rpm range but as soon as i give it any more it starts hesertating again. could it have anything to do with the trottle valve switch?

mr30_2.4e Enthusiast

mr30_2.4e

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i just cheaked my air flow meter with a muti meter and im geting a connection from one of the pins to the body and its not spose to be could the problem be my air flow metre ???? has anyone even read this post ??

SteveL Mentor

SteveL

Posted
Posted (edited)
i just cheaked my air flow meter with a muti meter and im geting a connection from one of the pins to the body and its not spose to be could the problem be my air flow metre ???? has anyone even read this post ??

It's quite possible the AFM is the problem. It's a mechanical 'flap' type with the flap operating a variable resistor arrangment. Over time things wear and problems like this can occur. It's also possible you have an air leak - check all vac hoses, etc. I don't have my R30 WS manual anymore so can't help you there. It's really a question of doing things by the 'numbers' - check timing, valve clearances, sensors, air leaks, etc, etc.

Edited by SteveL
mr30_2.4e Enthusiast

mr30_2.4e

Posted
  • Author
Posted

im pritty sure its the water temp senser sender unit that im gunna replace in the morning off my other engine im not geting any resistance throught the terminals of the the one in the car. have tested resistance of the good one with some hot and cold water works grate so hopefully thats all it is :P:):P

V8skylineMAN Grand Master

V8skylineMAN

Posted
Posted

water temp sensor has nothing whatsoever to do with the way your car runs.

have you changed the lead that goes from the coil to the distributor?

could also be a faulty coil.

mr30_2.4e Enthusiast

mr30_2.4e

Posted
  • Author
Posted

the water temp senser is needed on the l24e so the computer can change the length of pulse sent to the injectors if it wasnt working the computer would think the motor is still cold and make the injection pulse longer there by making it richer untill the motor warms up. there is also a termotime sencer that controls the cold start valve in the intake manifold witch is only acdivated when the cranking the engine when water temp is lower then 10 degrees... anyway i think i accually found the problem because it had been running gas there was a relay that disconnected a wire to the drop resistor so i connected that wirer but was still running rich and fouling plugs.

the problem was that the full trottle switch. when the car idled the contacts where closed on the idle contact when the accelerator was pushed becuase of the gas settings it was amedently close the full trottle contacted making the fuel 2 rich for the rpm of the motor so i ajusted that switch so it closed at just under full trottle and its running like a gem... would loved to get it dino tuned im sore it would run even better.....carnt wait 2 take it for a bit of a drift lol anyone know of any performance upgrade for the l24e or does anyone have a l20et menifold and turbo for me :);) ill pay what ever i can get together... i cant beleive they could be very dear anyway ill post some pics tomorrow ill get a photo of taking it off the clock witch it does really easly suprisingly its got a far bit of balls the old nissan. been it alot of standed na vl dunnadores auto or manal and my skyline is alot quicker witch is cool cos the vls a rb30e GO THE L MOTORS!!! :lol: :lol:

mr30_2.4e Enthusiast

mr30_2.4e

Posted
  • Author
Posted

hope these pictures get me some more replys its like i been talking to my self on this topic? :P

its going really well does anyone know what i should be geting on fuel per km???? its a fairly fresh motor.

also y does my motor run like shit with the water temp senser pluged in and water is hot i have installed a new one and it does the same thing its like when it warms up its keeping the fuel to rich but the senser is fine and has been tested ???/ anyone got any idears??? with it disconnected it runs really well will it hurt the motor disconnected?

luke

post-25795-1137411166.jpg

post-25795-1137411250.jpg

post-25795-1137411325.jpg

post-25795-1137411428.jpg

V8skylineMAN Grand Master

V8skylineMAN

Posted
Posted
the water temp senser is needed on the l24e so the computer can change the length of pulse sent to the injectors if it wasnt working the computer would think the motor is still cold and make the injection pulse longer there by making it richer untill the motor warms up. there is also a termotime sencer that controls the cold start valve in the intake manifold witch is only acdivated when the cranking the engine when water temp is lower then 10 degrees...

my bad, i was still thinking carby versions.....

/slaps self

mr30_2.4e Enthusiast

mr30_2.4e

Posted
  • Author
Posted

should the full trottle switch only come on at full throttle?????? or what trottle possision should it come on and will it hurt my motor not running a water temp senser?? it runs perfectly without it... runs like shit even if i connect a different one???

V8skylineMAN Grand Master

V8skylineMAN

Posted
Posted

shouldnt hurt not running the TPS. at most u will use a bit more fuel. i think it is mainly for making the auto kick back a gear, when u nail it.(not the only way it does it tho)

george.bryant Rising Star

george.bryant

Posted
Posted (edited)

I have had my TPS disconnected for over a year on my l20et auto and no problems...that i know of anyway

The kick down for the auto is at the pedal.

Edited by george.bryant
blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

Couple of thoughts:

Is the Thermotimer switching off?

Is the Cold Start Air Corrector (the round bit just behind the throttle body) working properly?

Is the Cold Start Injector switching off (I've actually disconnected the plug from mine, still starts OK)?

mr30_2.4e Enthusiast

mr30_2.4e

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Couple of thoughts:

Is the Thermotimer switching off?

Is the Cold Start Air Corrector (the round bit just behind the throttle body) working properly?

Is the Cold Start Injector switching off (I've actually disconnected the plug from mine, still starts OK)?

hi all

thermotime switch working but shouldnt afect when motor is running as it is only acdivated when the keys on the start and only if its water is below 10 degrees

just rebuilt the distributor

the trottle top speed switch was coming on to soon richening the fuel 2 much should it only be acdivated when the trottle is at the floor ??? or when anyway it rus really well till that full trottle switch is on then it hesitates and shit

leads are new and plugs

just pulled the the fuel rail and injector assembally off my other r30 i think its in a bit better condition its a serise one 82 model they would be the same wouldnt they they look it to me but better hoses and shit

also y will my car use more fuel with water temper senser disconnected anyone got any thoughts i wouldnt think it would cos it runs so nice soon as i plug it in it runs rich and f*ks up have tried another one still the same thing?? any thoughts??

O and how much fuel should it use its a 5 spd manal been recondition motor and box and irs lsd?

post-25795-1137576452.jpg

post-25795-1137576535.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      4th gear sychro worn

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Not R7R. Meant to type R&R, obviously enough.
    • GTSBoy
      R33 headlight relay conversion?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Bugger "making it look stock". I put one conventional internally fused Hella relay behind each globe. I just pulled the plugs off the back of the globes and built new loom segments with male and female plug parts to match up to the original loom and the globe, and used the original power wires to each globe coming from the switch through the original loom plug to trigger the relays. Ran a big fat (also separately fused) power wire across the front of the car to feed all the relays. It's as ugly as f**k, but it is wedged down between the headlight and battery on the RHS and the airbox and headlight on the LHS, and no-one ever looks in my engine bay, and on the odd occasion that they do I simply give no f**ks for what they think. Fully reversible - not that you'd ever want to. For f**k's sake. It's a Skyline. They made million of the bloody things. We've been crashing them into roadside furniture for 30 years now. There is a negative side effect to putting relays on the headlights. The coil current is too little to properly clean the contacts in the switches and they get blacked up and you have to open them up every couple of years and clean them manually. I have 25 years of experience on this point.
    • joshuaho96
      R33 headlight relay conversion?

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I was poking through the R34 wiring diagrams vs R33 and noticed that the R34 has proper headlight relays while the R33 is like the R32 and sends full headlight power through the headlight switch. I'm not afraid of wiring but I really would like to do this in a way that looks OEM (clipping into open positions on the OEM relay box) and also unlike the factory wiring which interlocks the high beam and low beam on the halogen series 1 GTR headlights I want to make it such that turning on the high beams keeps the low beams on as well. Any advice on how to locate the specific connectors + crimp terminals + relays I need? I was thinking one NO relay for low beams and another for combined high + low running off the factory high beam headlight connector. I don't really want to splice into a crusty old probably discontinued factory harness so fully reversible is my goal here.
    • sonicii
      HY51 Fuga Hybrid

      By sonicii · Posted

      Pretty sure they run the same engine as the Q50 hybrid which specifies 95 RON.  I ran 98 in mine for a while, but it made no difference in performance or economy, so I have been using 95 for the last few years.  I have never hit 6.0L/100km, but have returned mid to high 6 on the highway.  Being a hybrid, fuel economy is a lot more dependant on how you drive it.  At 110km/h, mine never goes into EV mode on the highway, so returns closer to 7.5L/100. urban driving can return low 8s if you are careful or over 10 if you are a bit more enthusiastic on the throttle.
    • GTSBoy
      4th gear sychro worn

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      About a quarter of what you want to do. It's only R7R, not R&dismantle&replaceparts&reassemble&R. ? It is stock. I already told you, you will NOT have broken those. It's f**king 4th gear for Christ's sake. You just chipped the teeth off.
×
×
  • Create New...