Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I've noticed some rust on one of my rear quarter panels.

I've taken the car to several panel beaters and have received quotes ranging from around $450 to "budget for around $1K" and a few in between.

The $450 quote involves removing the rust and fibreglassing up what is left, painting over etc.

The more expensive ones talk about welding in new metal instead of glassing it over.

Is there a right or wrong way of doing a job like this? Atleast with glass, it won't rust in the same spot :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101587-panel-beater-quotes-with-rust/
Share on other sites

the downside of welding in new panels is that welding introduces new spots to rust where the weld was done, if it is not painted immediately (also on the inside of the panel that you don't see). Also the heat generated by a crappy welder can cause the metal to warp slightly. However if you take it to a good panel shop with good mig welders and experienced panel beaters, you'll get a good job. You get what you pay for.

It's just one of those bastard things that once it is started is really hard to stop.

Edited by Russell GTS-R

Just for the record, Nissan can provide an R32 GTR rear quarter for around the $600 mark.

I see yours in an R33 but it's worth keeping in mind - rather than have the hassles plus you have a straight/dent free rear quarter.

Of course, sorry mate. I forgot about all the other expenses - my whole car was being resprayed so it was almost drop-in-the-ocean stuff with an extra $600.

GTR panels would be very very nice. Keep the S2 front bar and really confuse people ;)

If you're wanting a good job I reckon go with the replacement guard. For a little bit more money you can be sure that it won't come back for a long time.

Say 1200 for the guards paint and labour.

Welding, patch up work and paint would be close to a grand anyway.

If you do it cheap I can almost guarantee that that rust will be back in 2-3 years.

I'd still like to see some good photos of your GTR cowie!

snipe I apologise for the hijack/spam at the end of the post :)

Here a pic of the smorgasboard of repairs already done to my "no major accident damage" R32. In the high res pics you can see a row of welding spots around the wheel arch and see how the rear corner was pulled out into shape - hence we cut our losses and bought a new one.

By the way, inside the rear quarter we found:

a Japanese diary

D-cell battery

rotting right hand woolen glove

rotting original leather gearshift

sparkplug remover sleeve (which I still use today :))

100_2375a.JPG

And for you Russell :) Not the best pic, cause still only have the video camera for photos, but you get the idea. You really have to see it in person. No dents no scratches and a great shine. And I've nearly paid off the credit card! :) hehe

The last pic is a 'before' shot. Fitted Nismo skirts, bonnet lip and front vents. New rear quarter glass and front/rear windscreen seals. New window guides along the tops of the doors too and took the paint off the front lip spoiler.

IMG_0172.JPG

IMG_0176.JPG

DSC00091.JPG

I love what you find in imported cars!!!

when I imported my R31, there was a cassette in the boot under the carpet.

It was like techno from the early 90's.

I love the flares too!

Car looks awesome cowie.

Good luck with the rust repair mate...

By the way, inside the rear quarter we found:

a Japanese diary

D-cell battery

rotting right hand woolen glove

rotting original leather gearshift

sparkplug remover sleeve (which I still use today :D)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My understanding is that UV tends to accelerate the aging process. If the car has been garaged, then you could probably get away with extending beyond 10 years. FWIW, in 2015, I had tyres on my 180B SSS that had a 3-digit code (2 for week, 1 for decade), ending in 0, so could have been more than 30 years old, but still worked fine. I did replaced them very quickly, though, once I discovered what the code meant!
    • But we haven't even gotten to the point of talking about stateless controllers or any of the good stuff yet!
    • You guys need to take this discussion to another thread if you want to continue it, most of the last 2 pages has nothing to do with OP's questions and situation
    • And this, is just ONE major issue for closed loop control, particularly using PID. One such issue that is created right here, is integrator wind up. But you know GTSBoy, "it's just a simple PID controller"...  
    • Nah. For something like boost control I wouldn't start my design with PID. I'd go with something that originates in the fuzzy logic world and use an emergency function or similar concept. PID can and does work, but at its fundamental level it is not suited to quick action. I'd be reasonably sure that the Profecs et al all transitioned to a fuzzy algorithm back in the 90s. Keep in mind also that where and when I have previously talked about using a Profec, I'm usually talking about only doing an open loop system anyway. All this talk of PID and other algorithms only comes into play when you're talking closed loop boost control, and in the context of what the OP needs and wants, we're probably actually in the realm of open loop anyway. Closed loop boost control has always bothered me, because if you sense the process value (ie the boost measurement that you want to control) in the plenum (after the throttle), then boost control to achieve a target is only desirable at WOT. When you are not WOT, you do not want the the boost to be as high as it can be (ie 100% of target). That's why you do not have the throttle at WO. You're attempting to not go as fast as you can. If the process variable is measured upstream of the throttle (ie in an RB26 plenum, or the cold side pipework in others) then yeah, sure, run the boost controller closed loop to hit a target boost there, and then the throttle does what it is supposed to do. Just for utter clarity.... an old Profec B Spec II (or whatever it is called, and I've got one, and I never look at it, so I can't remember!) and similar might have a MAP sensor, and it might show you the actual boost in the plenum (when the MAP sensor is connected to the plenum) but it does not use that value to decide what it is doing to control the boost, except to control the gating effect (where it stops holding the gate closed on the boost ramp). It's not closed loop at all. Once the gate is released, it's just the solenoid flailing away at whatever duty cycle was configured when it was set up. I'm sure that there are many people who do not understand the above points and wonder wtf is going on.  
×
×
  • Create New...