Jump to content
SAU Community

Gtst32 1990 6000


Recommended Posts

(Use this as a guide for new threads. Delete and/or copy the fields as needed - dont forget to add your location in the description field above. Delete this message)

Item:

Location:

Item Condition:

Reason for Selling:

Price and Payment Conditions:

Extra Info:

Contact Details:

hey

black gtst 32 1990 model

smashed front bar, damaged fuel pump. damaged air flow meter, right hand side quarter panel slight dent

car is registered till 19th of this month, has epa sticker but i have a letter of declaration stating car can be sold. Epa sticker was from turbo, fuel polution because fuel pump needs replacing.

Car has

- bn side skirts, rear bar

- boost controller

- variable boost off boost 10psi on boost 21psi

- garrett t04r ball bearing turbo

- all interior in prefect condition

- paint work in good condition only few marks which can be buffed out

- 170kw

- extra injector

- aftermarket gtr intercooler

- bov

- button clutch

- full exhaust system

wolf 3d version 4 ecu doesnt come with car if u want it, its an extra 700

Asking price around 6000$

contact catherine 0413442008

picture taken from accident

if want more pics will email them to only serious buyer

post-14664-1137041024.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi there, after a quick google search I found this topic as I am also relocating the battery to the boot of my 1998 GTT. I was just wondering how you got on with installing the re-routing and specifically the installing of the harness protectors? How do they attach? Are they just a simple "click-in" affair, or do they attach with bolts? Does the GTT have all the necessary fixing holes for them, for example, where they locate on the chassis? Any help you can provide would greatly appreciated.
    • Thanks mate, yeah I've heard that alot and i am definitely regretting using the 25 Loom now, i have gone through and traced all the plugs from the 20loom and re wired them into the 25 loom, I have currently got Crank, Fuel and accessory's working, just need to finalise the loom and run the wire for the Ignition (Spark) and it should be running, will update if i have any luck.
    • Cheers lad, when I head over there I'll give it a shot.
    • Stock less likely to carry one like that than urethane, but still can, especially if the bolts are not as tight as they should be. If it's making that much noise you should be able to use a hose as a stethoscope> stick one end in your ear, crouch down and wave it around the various possible noise makers and get someone to lift the front end at the guard lip.
    • Broken actuator rod. Could be one of a couple of them broken. Or, it's locked and the central locking actuator is broken/stuck or the actuator rods between it, the lock and the key barrel are jammed or broken similarly. You'll probably need a locksmith/mechanic who is experienced with using slim tools to reach down next to the window glass to manipulate the mechanism. That's assuming that it is not so severely jammed/broken that nothing useful will move.
×
×
  • Create New...