Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guy,

I thought I would share this with you ppl

I bought a R32 GTR about 4 months ago, stock as a rock.

And not long after having it turbos let go on me, also corrosion on all plugs because the previous owner liked to wash his engine bay and some minor things as well.

After some mucking around with trying to get the turbos re-built under warranty,

Because the guy who I bought the car from had them re-built not long ago, but when they were re-built they only used 270 trust bearings not 360’s so they did not last long at all, only 500kms.

Long story short I ended up having to get new turbos because the mob up in Sydney did not want a bar of it.......

So after all that crap, I ended up buying some, Garret GT 2560R’s. Also I have fitted a 3 inch exhaust from dump pipes and a k&n panel filter. Just got it dyno today and she is getting 240rwkw with only 10 pound of boost. I am wrapped because my car has been off the road for 3 months and now I get it back tomorrow.

Has many ppl hear used the GT 2560R’s?

Next new coils, PFC and z32 air flow meters. See how that goes.

Ill post up the dyno sheet when I get access to a scanner.

Has many ppl here used the GT 2560R’s as I would like to know there results…?

Hear is the dyno sheet, Before and after i changed turbos.

post-20278-1137176510.jpg

Edited by Zardos
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101646-finally-got-it-back-on-the-road/
Share on other sites

Where's Pete (pnblight) when you need him??? :) He's got some pretty big numbers out of his, about 529rwhp (394rwkws).

I've recently switched to these aswell, about 340rwkw, still need to fiddle with cam timing so there's more in it, awesome turbos, great response....

Which size did you get?? I'm using the 707160-5's...

Cheers

I am not sure ill find out tomorrow when i pick it up. Ill ask the tuner. but I know they are capable of 400hp each.... if that help’s

I think the 400hp ones are the 707160-10's, which are like 2540's... the 707160-5's are 350hp rated (each)...

Where's Pete (pnblight) when you need him??? :D  He's got some pretty big numbers out of his, about 529rwhp (394rwkws).

I've recently switched to these aswell, about 340rwkw, still need to fiddle with cam timing so there's more in it, awesome turbos, great response....

Which size did you get?? I'm using the 707160-5's...

Cheers

:lol: :lol:

HEHE the gt2560r 707-160-5 are the unit i'm using they also come in -7 -10 the easiest way to tell the difference with out seeing the name plate is the -5 is the only one with a 0.60 a/r compressor housing(where the -7 & -10 run 0.42 a/r housing). And if your making 240rwkw at 10psi wait till you get it 14psi plus as this is where they really start to wake up, Garret Australia state that there a good for 2 bar but are best run about 18psi. I'm a little concerned tho as mine setup for Turbotec would not run as low a 10psi the base setting (half a hole tension on waste gate control arm) run just under a bar.

pete

ps my advice on next steps would be a little different

i am still running std coils at 530rwhp and don't see the need to change them yet

1.APEXI PFC

2.rb20/25 afm are half the price and plug straight in (range to around 540rwhp)

z32 are good but $$ and unless your looking at big hp you will just better resultion with the rb20/25 afms. The std nismo 62mm afms unit cause more restriction that the 80 mm rb20/25 or z32 afms(plus i personally descreen mine to reduce restriction)

3.700cc injectors Sard are very well priced and easy to buy through greenline.jp or nenegun

4.Tomei poncams 260deg 9.15mm ex/inlet with adjustable wheels

=~480 to 500rwhp

pete

ps my advice on next steps would be a little different

i am still running std coils at 530rwhp and don't see the need to change them yet

1.APEXI PFC

2.rb20/25 afm are half the price and plug straight in (range to around 540rwhp)

z32 are good but $$ and unless your looking at big hp you will just better resultion with the rb20/25 afms. The std nismo 62mm afms unit cause more restriction that the 80 mm rb20/25 or z32 afms(plus i personally descreen mine to reduce restriction)

3.700cc injectors Sard are very well priced and easy to buy through greenline.jp or nenegun

4.Tomei poncams 260deg 9.15mm ex/inlet with adjustable wheels

=~480 to 500rwhp

1. One of my coils has a faulty plug that seams to cause a miss on the odd occasions, So I though I might as well change the lot as they are quite old and want to eliminate any further problems. :P

2. That a great suggestion about the rb20/25 afm as I will look into that and get some $$, How much of a restriction do you get by leaving the screen on?

3. I will get some injectors, fuel pump and some cams later on down the track.

What is your setup/power if you don't mine me asking?

How long would the standard bottom end last if you were make around 480 to 500rwhp, so to say I was going to nail it 50% percent of your driving?

Thanks for the advice much appreciated :P

1. One of my coils has a faulty plug that seams to cause a miss on the  odd occasions, So I though I might as well change the lot as they are quite old and want to eliminate any further problems. :P

2. That a great suggestion about the rb20/25 afm as I will look into that and get some $$, How much of a restriction do you get by leaving the screen on?

3. I will get some injectors, fuel pump and some cams later on down the track.

What is your setup/power if you don't mine me asking?

How long would the standard bottom end last if you were make around 480 to 500rwhp, so to say I was going to nail it 50% percent of your driving?

Thanks for the advice much appreciated :P

ok the rb20/25afms can normally be bought around $150ea but try and get a good set.

If your got a dodgy coil fair enough was just saying it not a necessary upgrade if there healthy.

If your got a strong motor in good shape it will run that level for quiet a while, mine ran for two year (at 520 to 530rwhp) and only started to show signs of getting tired after i had to leave my gtr with my brother and when i got back it wasn't the same, so i find it hard to blame the car for that. I have talk to Kier Wilson about the limitations on std engine and his opinion after putting a few through there passes is the still engine will surport round 700 to 750bhp (but i worn we are talking about new std components not a tired 15 year engine) R32 are a bit like a box chocolates hehee you never know as there get a bit old.

So if you want to run the gtr hard and live in std form you have adopt so habits like always let it warm up fully before thrashing it, service it regularly and run good products and it is best to adopt a lower boost setting for genernal every day driving .I run about 14psi every day (which is still around 460 to 470rwhp in my car)

pete

ok the rb20/25afms can normally be bought around $150ea but try and get a good set.

If your got a dodgy coil fair enough was just saying it not a necessary upgrade if there healthy.

If your got a strong motor in good shape it will run that level for quiet a while, mine ran for two year (at 520 to 530rwhp) and only started to show signs of getting tired after i had to leave my gtr with my brother and when i got back it wasn't the same, so i find it hard to blame the car for that. I have talk to Kier Wilson about the limitations on std engine and his opinion after putting a few through there passes is the still engine will surport round 700 to 750bhp (but i worn we are talking about new std components not a tired 15 year engine) R32 are a bit like a box chocolates hehee you never know as there get a bit old.

So if you want to run the gtr hard and live in std form you have adopt so habits like always let it warm up fully before thrashing it, service it regularly and run good products and it is best to adopt a lower boost setting for genernal every day driving .I run about 14psi every day (which is still around 460 to 470rwhp in my car)

pete

Thanks for that, I value your input as it helps a lot. ;) My coils arrived today and I slapped them in, seems that the problem with the miss has gone, I have been driving all day and night and not one problem :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I think my main complaint with your idea is that there is a veneer of idealism spread across it. You want the simple numbers to make it easier, but all they will do is make it easier for someone to come to the wrong conclusion because the fine details will kick them in the nuts. As it is right now, the tiny bit of arithmetic is NOT the obstacle to understanding what will fit and what will not fit. The reality of trying it is what determines whether it will fit. If you had a "standard rule" that R34 GTT guards have that magic 100mm space from the hub face to whichever side you were worried about, and someone said "excellent, this wheel is only 98mm in that direction, I'll just go spend $4k on them and jam them on my sick ride".....they would just as likely find out that the "standard rule" is not true because the rear subframe is offset to one side by a fairly typical (but variable) 8mm on their car and they only have 92mm on one side and 108 on the other.
    • It still combines inches with mm, especially when you have .5 inches involved, and mm and inches that can go in either direction. This would give a clear idea on both sides of the rim, right away, with no arithmetic. Even better if somebody gives you the dimensions of the arch of multiple cars. i.e GTR may be 125mm, a A80 Supra may be 117mm, or something along those lines. Yes, you can 'know' that going from a 10in rim to a 10.5in rim with the same offset moves both sides about 6mm, but you still have to 'know' that and do the math. Often it's combined. People are going from 9.5 +27 to 10.5 +15. You may do the math to know it, but if it was going from (I had to go look it up to be sure) 241mm/2 - 27 - 93.5mm from the center line to (more math) 266/2 - 15 (118mm) from the center line. Versus 93mm vs 118mm. It's right there. If you know you have a GTT with 100mm guards you can see right away that one is close to flush and the other absolutely won't work. And when someone says "Oh the GTR is 120mm" suddenly you see that the 10.5 +15 is about perfect. (or you go and buy rims with approximately 118mm outward guard space) I think it's safe to say that given one of the most common questions in all modified cars is "How do offsets work" and "How do I know if wheels will fit on my car" that this would be much simpler... Of course, nothing will really change and nobody is going to remanufacture wheels and ditch inches and offset based on this conversation :p We'll all go "18x9+30 will line up pretty close to the guards for a R34 GTT (84mm)" but 'pretty close' is still not really defined (it is now!) and if you really care you still have go measure. Yes it depends on camber and height and dynamic movement, but so do all wheels no matter what you measure it for.
    • But offsets are simple numbers. 8" wheel? Call it 200mm, near enough. +35 offset? OK, so that means the hub face is that far out from the wheel centreline. Which is 2s of mental arithmetic to get to 65mm to outer edge and 135mm to inner. It's hardly any more effort for any other wheel width or offset. As I said, I just close my eyes and can see a picture of the wheel when given the width and offset. That wouldn't help me trust that a marginal fitment would actually go in and clear everything, any more than the supposedly simple numbers you're talking about. I dunno. Maybe I just automatically do numbers.
    • Sure! But you at least have simple numbers instead of 8.5 inches +/mm, relative to your current rims you do maths with as well, and/or compare with OEM diameter, which you also need to know/research/confirm..
×
×
  • Create New...