Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 89
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Are they paying for the car? Do you live under their roof rent-free? If so, they should make the choice for you because you're dependant on them.

In any case, they're just doing the parental thing and looking after your best interests. They're not worried that you'll beat them down Eastern Creek, they're worried you'll kill yourself.

Earn the trust, buy a shitter and save the money so you can buy something even BETTER than a 10K car in a year or two. =-]

i do live with them but i work, i have been for 5 years (Kmart). my dad has told me that money is not an issue he's just worried that i might either kill myself or someone else.

i need to get a car before i start 2nd year uni. i don wanna get a shitter because even though it's my first car i'm gonna be spending a bit of cash on it. ofcourse i'd prefer a turbo but i'll settle for an NA i'm not gonna complain which is why i'm asking is it worth getting a non-turbo skyline or something.

thanks

"Your ego is writing cheques your body can't cash" :D

Seriously - driving requires a lot of practice and yeah it depends on how you approach it but from your comments on here I suggest you get a 'Trabant' as your first car :(

you're a f*king idiot.

you are onw of those idiot racer/dragger wanna bees by saying that you want to put them in their place.

I'm sick of being politically correct.

you are a young kid.

you have no driving experience.

you even said yourself that your parents don't want you to get a powerful car cause they have been in the car with you when you speed.

isn't it obvious to you that you are reckless?

and then you say you speed when it's safe, at like midnight on hume hwy.

I can't get over how f*king stupid this remark is.

You know what you are.. a waste of oxygen.

I don't care if you are young and dum and full of cum.

people always go "oh kids will be kids"

bull shit.

you need a f*king beating to bash some sense in to you.

1.) your parents know better than you and you should respect them you spoilt little shit

2.) you have a stupid attitude and you "THINK" you know, but you don't know shit.

3.) you have next to no driving experience and yet you say "I know when it's safe to speed"  .  do you think those "there's no such thing as safe speeding" ads are there for people apart from you? it's for people just like you.

it's sad to say that it doesn't make any difference what car you get cause you will do stupid shit in any car.

skyline for a first car.

what a f*king joke.

you're just another front cut waiting to happen.

<_<

what the f**k is your problem mate. why call me an idiot for. my parents have never even been in a car with me while i'm driving that's why i said "somehow " they've seen me. i'm not gonna lie i do speed and i would love to drag a commodore and beat the f**k out of it and you can't tell me you've never gone over the speed limit coz i know you'll be bullshitting. i might be only 19 but you can't tell me i have no driving experience, driving almost every single day of the year gets you some experience. i have driven a wrx, an evo 6 and even a supercharged VY R8 so i know what's fast and what's not. you're older than me and probably more experienced but it doesn't give you the right to judge me mate. i'm not gonna start calling you names and shit bcoz that's not wat i'm here for i'm here to get some decent advice.

relax mate.........you'll live longer

relax mate, i'm not stupid i do drive responsibly i only speed when i'm driving down roads like sydney road/hume hwy which is a huge 3 lane road at about 12 at night when there's not a single car around.

Sounds nice and safe until a kangaroos hops out in front of you at the last second and you realise that the car behaves a little differently when you swerve at 150km/h than it does at 60.

My first car was scarily quick, it had nitrous etc.. which was great fun but looking back now I'm probably lucky to be alive.

Why not spend a few dollars on an advanced driving course first, it's amazing how much you don't know you don't know!

iam 18 i have a r32 gtst with 210 4wkws i bought it about 2 moths ago for my 4th car. befor that i had a $160 dollar metior, $500 mazda 323 and a for lazer. dont get a skyline mate even an NA one. you wont get incurance for it the only reason i did was that i have a 3 cars befor it and had no claims. you havnt own a car yet so you have no history with incurance so good luck.

ok....put yourself in my position. you're a 19 year old P plater. you've been driving your parents VT for a year and it's time to get your own car. you wanna get a car that's manual, looks good and goes good, your budget is around 9 or 10 grand.

your parents won't let you get a TURBO or V8 bcoz somehow they've seen how you drive (speeding) and don't want you to get one for your first car.

you're thinking.....is it worth getting a non-turbo skyline or 300ZX or should i get a honda or a corolla or something.   <_<    

what the f**k would you do?   <_<  :P  :D

you have no idea how much your opinions/suggestions would help me guys.

and like i said put yourself in my shoes.

thank you

i cant beleive your 19 and your having a cry that your parents won't let you have a turbo car. bwa hahahaha. YOUR 19!!! do wateva the f**k u want. Oh my god, your so lame

Edited by RRR32_GoDzIlLa

I think we need a sticky of good nat atmo P plate friendly first cars as voted by SAU. Things like R31 Skyline, Pulsar SSS (even though I don't like em!), etc. are always being recommended by SAU members in threads similar to this, why no make one definitive first car thread to end all first car threads?

check out this month's issue of HPI. Good writeup on some nice cars for P platers. AE111 Levin for example. Farkin awesome car. FWD but similar power to weight ratio as a stock turbo R32 GTSt and its an N/A.

Although insurance on any import will send you broke at 19. I used to pay $2500 a year just to insurance when I had my 180sx when I was 19 about 5 years ago.

If you like to speed, and can't control your urges when other idiots on the road bait you, then you want insurance. Otherwise if you have an accident, then you'll be left with a writeoff or spare parts and no money for a new car. If you can't afford the insurance, or the maintenance bills then don't buy it. If you can budget for all of that, then get a turbo or non turbo skyline, as per what you can afford. Just don't blow all your money buying a car.

ah i was in the same boat as you.

i'm 19 on my green Ps

i was gonna get a r33 gts-t series 2 even checked some out today

but decided to get a new hyundai getz to keep probably till i leave uni and get a decent job maybe in 3-4 years time i'll get a better car like a r34 or maybe a new wrx or sti maybe even evo or the new gtr coming out in 2007 XD

i reckon pulsar sss would be pretty good with sr20 motor and as you gain more experience you could even look into modding it i duno much bout the sr20 motor so i wouldnt know if its better to add a turbo or dropping a sr20det in

well thats my 1 and half cents

I would buy a solid reliable medium size car, that isn't too hard on the pocket if you happens to ding it. But going out on a high HP and expensive to repair as a first car doesn't make sense at all. I think you parents are erring on the side of slow and safe, as most parent would.

NEVER buy a cheap oconomy box things, as they're probably more dangerous then the car you want to buy, as they would lack brakes and many other active safety feature of a well engineered car.

Wow allot has happened in the last 20 hours....

Allot of reading to do...

Anyways... I had a 4 cyl 1973 LJ Torana as my first car.... Went 0-60kph in about 14 seconds.... Was sooooooo slow. Have not driven a slower car ever.... My nitro rc car could out run it....

Back to the point. I learnt alot of things from that car. Firstlly dont buy one... LOL but most importantlly you need to start small....

Your 19 now. When i was 19 i got my first skyline... I have to say i got 2 speeding tickets in a Pintara back in 1999 and thats all i ever had. So going of whats been said i believe you young and dumb in crap cars too.... Probablly more so cause you dont car too much...

I cant say dont get one cause they are great. But maby wait till you got a full time job so you can spend some serious full time dollars on running a skyline....

I now have 2 houses and owe the bank a heap. This will be my last skyline so thats why im keeping it. My partner drives an S15 GT which was 47k brnad new. I bought my R33 S2 at the same time for 24k so i said to her i can spent the difference of modifications. She agreed.... Silly her....

Anyways i have to keep my keys in my pocket cause she wants to drive my car all the time now.

What im saying is get a shitter and drive it for a while then upgrade...

Personally i would get a 2000'ish corolla from auction... (7-9k)

my dad has told me that money is not an issue he's just worried that i might either kill myself or someone else.

i need to get a car before i start 2nd year uni. i don wanna get a shitter because even though it's my first car i'm gonna be spending a bit of cash on it. ofcourse i'd prefer a turbo but i'll settle for an NA i'm not gonna complain which is why i'm asking is it worth getting a non-turbo skyline or something.   

thanks

Money not an issue aye? non turbo? then get an r34 GT :P

OR

As others have said get a paddock basher an save up. I've had my 33 for nearly 1 &1/2 years, an with the money I've spent altogether I probably could've saved it up in that time an be driving an r34 GTT by now. Hindsight may be 20/20, but it's also a b*tch.

Oh & whether or not you think it's worth getting a n/a skyline, check out the n/a performance section of the forum & ask around what their cars are like

Mate, I'd do what you think is right yourself. Not what other people think is right.

I'm 20 now, i've owned about 8 import cars since i was 16, 7 of them have been turbo.

Until i was 18, everything was fine, i had to drive with an adult (On my Ls) so i was never allowed to thrash the car.

First night i got my Ps, i went out with a few mates, storm hit, it was pouring bucketloads. Never had experience with that much rain in my driving to date.

I came around a corner in my R33 GTST, lost it completely, almost hit the car 3 times in the few seconds i had lost it, missing the kerb/pole, parked car and a tree.

Never again.

I learnt my lesson, learnt to to control the car properly, learnt that turbo cars deserve respect and should not be messed around with foolishly, under the influence of your friends.

Since then, i've been fine, maybe a few close calls, but other than that no dramas. I must admit i do some stupid things now and again (i'm not going to pretend that I'm 100% law abiding), but hey young people will do that. So long as you know your limits.

If you want a fast car, get it. But make sure you respect it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Is there a diameter difference in the stock to Nismo? If so, the weight alone won't be indicative when comparing flywheels of the same diameter, since the radius of the flywheel acts on the moment of inertia with a square factor, where as mass is linear. Roughly going from a 4.5kg flywheel with radius 20cm, to a 9kg flywheel with radius 14cm would see them act the same. This calc is just here to act as a brief numbers comparison and reflects no actual RB flywheel diameters etc. it also assumes even weight distribution (thickness) throughout.
    • It seems this could be due to a restructure/team direction change... Or... You're working with a different category of vehicle... Or you've decided you'd rather be able to play with your own cars again...   I'm hoping the latter...
    • had 4 weeks off over xmas and well did some stuff to the shed and BRZ, well short of is I don't work full time in supercars anymore as of yesterday.........
    • Did you get any down time over Christmas, or have you had any since to play with this? Or have you given up and are trying to get yourself a second hand V8SC instead?
    • A random thought I had just before I hit "Submit on this post". If brake fluid, in a container in my garage that has never been opened goes bad after 18 months, why can I leave it in my car for 24 months in an "unsealed container"... Secondly, some other digging, and brake fluid manufacturers seem to be saying 5 year shelf life... Me thinks there line on 18 months for an unsealed bottle is pretty much horse shit marketing spin. Kind of like how if you drive a car and don't run a turbo timer your turbo and motor will die horribly...   Where I started on this though... Someone (me) started down a bit of a rabbit hole, I don't quite have the proper equipment to do Equilibrium Reflux boiling per the proper test standards. I did a little digging on YouTube, and this was the first video I found on someone attempting to "just boil it". This video isn't overly scientific, as we don't have a known reference for his test either. Inaccuracy in his equipment could have him reaching the 460 to 470f boiling point range in reality. In the video, using a laser temp gun, he claims his Dot3 that's been open in his florida garage for over a year gets to about 420 to 430 fahrenheit (215 to 221c) Doing some googling, I located an MSDS for that specific oil, and from new, it claims a dry boiling point of 460 to 470f. Unfortunately they don't list a wet boiling point for us to see how far it degraded toward its "wet" point. While watching it I was thinking "I wonder what the flash point is..." turns out its only 480f for that specific brake fluid....   As for testing the oil's resistance, I might not be able to accurately do that unfortunately. Resistance level will be quite a LOT higher than my system can read I suspect based on some research. However, I might be able to do it by measuring the current when I apply a specific voltage. I won't have an actual water % value, but I'll have some values I can compare between the multitude of fluids. I'll run some vague calculations later and see if I should be able to read any reliable amount of current. These calcs will be based on some values I've found for other oils, and see how close I'll need my terminals together. From memory I can get down to 1pA accuracy on the DMM. I don't think my IOT Power Tester has any better resolution.    
×
×
  • Create New...