Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Item: 1994 Manual R33 GTS25t, 87,000kms

Color: Black

Features: Excellent condition, lightly tuned with the following mods:

  • Full exhaust: Split stainless dump pipe, Apexi N1 front pipe, Apexi N1 cat-back, stainless hi-flo cat
  • Apexi S-SAFC2
  • Apexi AVC-R EBC
  • Turbosmart type 2 blow off valve
  • K&N panel filter in airbox
  • Interior:Turbo timer, 6 stack Cd, autometer boost gauge, razo gear knob

The SAFC2 & AVCR was tuned by UniGroup engineering, dyno'ed in shootout mode to 201.9rwkw at 10psi (see picture links for a scan). Pretty much all the mods are newer than 3 yrs.

Service & Maintenance Items

  • Tyres replaced this year, Hankook Ventus sport K104's, with 80%+ tread on stock rims
  • For the past 3 years that I've owned it, I've serviced it every 6 mths/5,000kms (whichever came first). Have log book to show this.
  • Timing belt was replaced @ approx 70,000km's when I first bought the car 3 yrs ago.
  • Front brake pads just replaced (Bendix), discs machined.

Rego: Approx 10 months

Location: Sydney southern suburbs (Hurstville)

Reason for Selling: Bought a bike, so gonna downgrade to a cheaper hatchback now. Happy to look at trade for cheap hatchback + cash adjustment.

Price: $12,000neg.

Contact Details: drop me a mail at [email protected] or PM me to arrange a time. If you would like additional pics please email me.

Photos: http://shoey.gfoto.com

Edited by shoey_R33
  • 3 months later...

can you send some more pics of the engine bay, turbo, underside of the car. Also has there been any problems withj HICAS ect. What condition is th einterior in and could you send a pic of it.

Send pics to [email protected]

I am interested but how much is the price negotiable.

Also does it still have the stock cooler in it? What condition is the turbo in? What condition is the interior in? Does the motor use any oil?

Edited by WogsRus

  • Pics of interior added to gfoto. The pics are a yr old, but nothings changed except the gear knob has been replaced with a black leather razo item, and an autometer boost gauge added
  • Intercooler is stock
  • Havent heard my mechanic report any problems regarding the turbo or oil, and I see them every 6 mths for regualr service. The turbo is a stock '94 GTS25T unit that occassionaly sees up to 10psi boost (under control by a dyno tuned AVC-R), but mainly I run it at 7psi
  • Price is somewhat negotiable, just dont expect to drive away for a penny and expect me to throw in a tank to boot :)

Honestly, as the user of the car, I can only report on what I *observe* to be the condition of the engine, turbo, etc etc. . Its like asking me whats the condition of my kidneys. I can tell u that I feel great but only a doctor (ie mechanic) can tell me what the true condition is. I urge you if you are mechanically minded to come see for yourself or organize an NRMA inspection if you are intereste d:)

All i meant by the condition was things like, is there any oil round the turbo, ie leaks, does the engine blow smoke on cold start ect.

Does the sump of the car look dry, general. Anyway before i do purchase the car i would get it inspected so all good mate.

Forgot to ask. Are there any marks or dents or scratches on the car, if so, ore they bad and eaisaly reparible?

Also any cracks or anything of that nature on the windscreen ect?

Edited by WogsRus

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There are adaptors that allow you to delete the booster and use an s15 clutch master cylinder.    if you want to keep the booster they are still available brand new 
    • I visited again today: It would appear they have painted the main body of the car and some parts of some of the panels, so I can say that I now have BMW parts in my car, much to the envy of @Dose Pipe Sutututu It is still covered in dust which is quite the tease but I did look at a few circumspect spots that will be behind bumpers and such and wiped some dust away: After my repeated begging to PLEASE DONT PAINT OVER THE ENGINEERING CERTIFICATE (you have to re-engineer the entire car if they do) I see THIS: Which is great. Excellent job tbh at least to me. A better non dusty example would be the backs of the doors that have been painted: Giving a reasonable contrast between old and new (I know the old isn't clear coated on the inside of doors). The door card will well and truly cover where the old paint is, you can see in the second pic some of the black butyl/whatever shit is sticking the plastic sheet behind the door transfer that has happened since it's clearly been stuck back on. The most maddening thing about this colour is every time I saw it in the wild it looks like another colour, same with photos of many cars with the same colour looking wildly different in every photo anybody ever takes and this is no exception. But stand a little further back and it suddenly looks dark AF. I did tell them when I was discussing which of the 70 million charcoal colours to choose from (a porsche one, a BMW one, or a R32 GTR one etc) that if they just ignored me and chose one at random I would probably never notice. Maybe they did. But the colour is supposed to be B39 (BMW Mineral Gray). Boring I know, but the R34 sedan (to me) really shows off it's boat-ness when you paint it in a bright colour like bayside blue or white or whatever else. I do have a fondness for AR2 Nissan Red, but decided against that because it'll have pretty odd contrast to random bits unpainted (like engine bay, bits of trim etc, and maybe it'll fade). And people will always fkin comment on AR2. Everything remains super dusty. I have tracking numbers for the new heads, as well as some Improved Racing goodies, but they probably will be a next year thing by the time they end up on the car. I did some maths on the heads and I know why nobody goes to this extent in Australia, because it's really not worth it, given I could have just CNC'ed my current heads, bought a FAST102/TB and used my current rocker/spring/cam combination and get a 383 stroker (or stroked a 6.0 GenIV bottom end to 6.6L) built for the same price of just the setup in the mail/on the floor here. Or I could have bought a LS3 and a Drysump system. And then have a complete engine to sell. Oh well
    • We just disconnected the vacuum line if I remember correctly, booster is still there. Is there a rebuild solution for the booster or a different adapter that will work for GTR chassis?
    • Yeah 4wd (boosted) has a recess in the firewall for the booster, and 2wd is flat - the example in the link shows the flat surface. When you deleted the booster, did you just attach the factory slave cylinder directly to the recess in the firewall with no adaption?  
    • Yes, but no. You need to keep the mating surfaces bare (ie the flat faces where the caliper and upright pads touch the dogbone) and also the internal threads will remain bare (unless there are no internal threads - do they use nuts on all the bolts?). So you can slow down obvious external corrosion, but not all of it. Anodising would be required to provide decent protection to the alloy, but I'm not actually sure if you should anodise something that is all about the strength. Anodising does reduce strength significantly. Like, up to 50% on some alloys for high thickness coating.
×
×
  • Create New...