Jump to content
SAU Community

More Boost More Power

DFECTV 33

By DFECTV 33,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

DFECTV 33 Contributor

DFECTV 33

Posted
Posted

Guys and Girls, i have a 1995 r33 gtst with a turbo back zorst, k&n pod and a bleed valve that was set to 10 psi till last night when i draged my mate in his 33 same mods apart from the fact that he is running 14 psi. He was just at my house before and i got him to turn up my boost to 14psi and the car seems to be going so much harder.....but i have heard and read that with the mods that i have any boost over 10 or 11 psi would not only stuff up my turbo but also give me a down turn in performance due to the stock ecu cutting out. is this true ? if so how come my car seems to be going so much harder on 14 psi ??? and also has anyone with thet same mods as me (turbo back zorst, k&n pod and a bleed valve ) ever run 14 or mor psi and how did it go 4 u.

CHEERS

DAVE :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/102037-more-boost-more-power/
Share on other sites
limpus Mentor

limpus

Posted
Posted

^^^ Agreed...forget about the crap about your ecu cutting out...i'd be more worried about you getting your exhaust wheel stuck in your cat or shooting it out your exhaust...keep it to 12psi or under...especially since you don't have a fmic as well...

GTS4dood Collaborator

GTS4dood

Posted
Posted

i also have 3" turbo back zorst, pod filter. but i just put on a GREDDY FMIC, and have a power fc and a boost controller coming from japan. i was planning on 14pounds when i tune it in a few weeks. i have been told that the stock turbs can handle this for quite some time if they are in good nick.

fEkuaR Experienced

fEkuaR

Posted
Posted

i was talking to a guy with a 500rwhp r33 skyline who was telling before he built the monster he had that he ran his stock turbo on 18psi for 2 years and it was still perfect when he took it out of the car. He was saying that its all about have the supporting mods to ensure the turbo doesnt deteriorate eg a big exhaust to let the heat exscape fast, Good intercooler, ect ect. I wouldnt want to try it myself but he knows his shit and managed to make it work some how....

paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

youve been told 3 times already, 14psi will kill it. intercooler wont make it safer, the heat associated with running 14psi will fry the exhaust wheel. the standard turbo is well out of its effiency past 12psi and will just throw in stacks more heat.

more boost means more power only when your in the compressors wheels effiency island from the compressor map.

after that its just more and more heat with diminishing returns per psi

Bass Junky Grand Master

Bass Junky

Posted
Posted

fekuar

You mate was bullshitting.

He would the ONLY person in the world who was able to run 18psi in his skyline for any period of time.

My perfectly tuned R34 farked the bearings in it's stock turbo.

EVERYONE who has run 14psi for more than 9 months with their stock turbo has blown it up.

18psi = fully bullcrap mate.

fEkuaR Experienced

fEkuaR

Posted
Posted

wasnt a mate he worked for a performance engine company and advertises the company at car shows when showing his r33. Like i said i would like to see it done and wouldnt try it myself because i cant see it lasting more then an hour..... But he certainly wasnt deliberately try to bullshit anyone as he said this to more people then myself and that wouldnt be reputable for the company if everyone walked out and blew up their turbos lol

paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

the factory ecu has excessive airflow protection built in. to protect itself from failure caused by excessive pressure. the ecu does not care how much boost you dial in, in fact it doesn't know how much boost you are running.

all it can see is how much air is coming via the airflow meter, once it detects too much over its trigger level it cuts the timing and runs really rich. this kills all the power. remember its not based on boost, but airflow meter "volume", upping the boost sucks in more air, which triggers the stock protection.

RANDY Veteran

RANDY

Posted
Posted
So is that just a load of crap that your ecu will cut out??......All this talk of turbos blowing makes me thinnk i should turn down the boost abit..  lol

IS 12psi with no cooler OK??

That's pretty much the max you want to run. It's all fun and games to wind the boost up and get more power, but you are putting excess strain on a lot of things.

You may well find that running 10psi with a really nice cooler could give you more power than 12-14 with the stocker. At least you're guaranteed that you aren't detonating the hell out of your motor.

Hot motor + cold air = power. =-]

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted (edited)

It probably feel quicker due to R&R.. No longer linear but has power dips so it feels like the mid range screams then lays off a little then top end screams again. :P Well maybe not.. I'm just dribbling shiet. lol

Never wind up boost until you hit the dyno, you don't know the condition of your fuel pump, unless you have already replaced it with a new item. :P

Edited by Cubes
RB20DET_Silvia Collaborator

RB20DET_Silvia

Posted
Posted

I personally have a RB20DET in my silvia with 500hp fuel pump, front mount, pod, exhaust only cat back at this stage, r33 radiator, twin thermo, custom pod induction, splitfire coilpacks....got more mods just listing main basic mods.

Im running 10psi....i use to run 12psi and im putting it back up to 12psi this week as the power from 10-12 psi is so much greater......my mate runs 14psi and damn it moves quick but i dont see that as a smart move and will laugh my ass of when i see the turbo go kaboom soon.

U have to think about cold nights aswell....how much denser the air is and it will be so dense it will make ur turbo run overtime since its sucking a higher volume of air so u must set ur boost up smart.

- Luke

Downforce Grand Master

Downforce

Posted
Posted
fekuar

My perfectly tuned R34 farked the bearings in it's stock turbo.

EVERYONE who has run 14psi for more than 9 months with their stock turbo has blown it up.

Except me :P

I must have some freak turbo... sees 0.9 bar peak boost every time I drive it.

Doesn't matter, it's being upgraded very soon B)

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted (edited)

RB20DET_Silvia

I ran 1-1.1bar for a solid 100,000km's on my rb20det turbo, std boost was 11psi.

It was running lots of ign. timing and slightly rich (in the 11's).

Mine was only street driven, no big long 4th gear windouts.

Its well known the rb20det turbo on the rb20det motor handles 1bar no problems, the rb20det at 15psi has similiar airflow to the rb25det at 10psi.

Edited by Cubes

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • joshuaho96
      Potential MAP Reference Point

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Isn't there a fitting on the back of the balance tube? That's what the OEM boost gauge uses.
    • GTSBoy
      Potential MAP Reference Point

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Getting a decent signal from all 6 throats is a challenge. I don't know for sure, but I suspect that the stock balance tube is not ideal for it. I have done it on an ALFA 4 cylinder (about 35 years ago, so don't ask for too many details). We drilled 4x holes in the manifold runners, put in some fittings and ran hoses to a decent sized (I think it was about 20mm diameter) pipe that ran the length of the inlet manifold. So, it was quite a decent volume. There is a "tuning" balance to be found between the volume of the common plenum on such a thing and the diameter of the pipes running from it to the runners. You need the volume to be large enough to damp out the sharp spikes in pressure signal you get as each runner gets sucked on by its cylinder, but not so large that it becomes too slow to respond to actual changes in MAP. And you need the hoses to be small enough to transmit the signal quickly, but not so small that they delay the signal. You might have to have more than one go at it, if there isn't any actual success based wisdom to be had here. Hopefully there is. Anyway, I would not do it on only a couple of cylinders. I would also not care about "permanently modifying a part". Just bloody drill holes and make stuff better. There is nothing sacred about any GTR unless it is a genuine museum piece that you shouldn't be modifying at all anyway.
    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      He's still joining you, he's just delayed it and won't have the fulleh sick ITBs...
    • Kinkstaah
      R34 GTT front hood lip

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      The strange thing is this is a URAS front bumper (or clone of it). The bumper actually does not sit flush with the GTT hood - You need the addon to make the hood 'long' enough to reach the bumper. I have no idea why they didn't incorporate this piece into the bumper itself.. instead of sticking it to the hood instead.
    • AdiR34
      R34 GTT front hood lip

      By AdiR34 · Posted

      Another thought on this OLD topic: When you paint your bonnet lip, leave a small unpainted back lip/line along the back of the lip, where it rests on the bumper. That way, the line in the back is much more prominent than the gaps in the front/under the lip - and it breaks the hood-to-bumper connection at the "correct" place, when comparing to a GTR. I'm gonna do this with mine this week, so stay tuned for pics!
×
×
  • Create New...