Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

0.9 Bar = 13.23 psi

Any tuned, advanced timing, 12.0 : 1 AFRs stock turbo (standard PFC tune style car) is a ticking time bomb.

A stock turbo, on stock computer will last a little longer because you aren't advancing the timing and dropping AFRs which both create heat in the exhaust.

Heat on ceramic exhaust wheel is just asking for a delaminated turbine entering your cat converter.

i was talking to a guy with a 500rwhp r33 skyline who was telling before he built the monster he had that he ran his stock turbo on 18psi for 2 years and it was still perfect when he took it out of the car. He was saying that its all about have the supporting mods to ensure the turbo doesnt deteriorate eg a big exhaust to let the heat exscape fast, Good intercooler, ect ect. I wouldnt want to try it myself but he knows his shit and managed to make it work some how....

this guy u were talkin 2 wudnt happen 2 b from th gold coast would he.

i was talkin a fella there one night with a black r33 with 500hp who gave me th same bllsht spiel. 18psi for two yrs then put it on a rb20 cos it was stil perfect. he's a wanker mate. he told me running leaner would reduce my exhaust temps. the thing he thort was th coolest bout his car was that it stil had th standard head gasket. wanker

ive had my hi boost setting on my boost controller set at 14.5 psi for the past month or so only running that pressure every now and then and it seems fine. but i suppose prolonged use (track use)at this boost level may blow it. My bro also had a brand new r34 turbo put on his s2 r33 he was running 16 psi everynow and then for a year or two and it never blew. he has since upgraded the turbo after it was taken off we carfeully inspected the turbo and it is still perfect to shaft play scoring broken bits etc.

so i guess as long as you arent hammering your car all day everyday at 14-16psi the turbo will be ok for little bursts just to feel what a skyline would be like with a better turbo.

before any of you get all excited and tell me that what i am saying is bullshit. let me tell you that what i have said is actually what i have experienced and am currently doing.

my auto does not like it above 11psi or it pops de to fuel cut i think and if i turn it down on high revs i get a much better power band same mods as usual

fmic

pod

3'turbo back + hfc

eboost2

james

this guy u were talkin 2 wudnt happen 2 b from th gold coast would he.

i was talkin a fella there one night with a black r33 with 500hp who gave me th same bllsht spiel. 18psi for two yrs then put it on a rb20 cos it was stil perfect. he's a wanker mate. he told me running leaner would reduce my exhaust temps. the thing he thort was th coolest bout his car was that it stil had th standard head gasket. wanker

rofl thats the one :)

This 14psi = kill turbo thing everyone talks about seems to be a bit of a bell curve if you ask me.

The majarity of them will die round 14psi. Some even die at stock boost and some just seem to take crazy amounts of boost.

Its up to you if you want to run more boost but the risk off it dieing will increase accordingly. You may be lucky and then again.

Also if it does die it could also at a very off chance kill your engine as the ceramic bits from the wheel do wonder to the bore if they get in there if you know what I mean.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi Rob It's a nistune ecu. Yes same shop, good reputation. Apparently the computer on the dyno is compensated for temperature.    Chris was saying that the lean or richness of the mixture would be covered in the actual tune, but he's already picking up in advance that it's under what it should be. Regards the dyno, it's also noticeable on the road. But I just want to add something that has just come in, it appears there might be something in the setup of the external wastegate. In the exhaust manifold there is a centre divider between the front three and rear three cylinders. The external wastegate has a pipe from each side that join at the wastegate. Theory is those two pipes just might be pypassing that divider and introducing a problem somehow. Is anyone familiar with the divider in the exhaust manifold and the effects if the two wastegate pipes were to create a bypass path? Thanks for your questions Rob, interested in your thoughts on this external wastegate bypass theory. Regards Rob
    • Meh, At 60 years old, I have been doing dumb stuff for much longer than you mate, I am the true King And unfortunately I cannot be a maroon, as I am not brownish red As for not getting ITB's, the plenum intake will apparently show typical gains across the board and increase induction noise a bit, but, have all over less dort than ITB's Cost difference for the extra ITB dorts was significant though, the total parts for the plenum set up is "around" $2kAUD plus shipping, the ITB's were $4kAUD plus shipping, I was contemplating really hard about paying the extra $2k for all of the dorts, but weirdly, some form of common sense, from listening to the platform experts prevailed  As for the NA mod hate by some, I've had a few boosted cars, with all their inherent issues, I'm now looking at simplicity and legalities for a street car, maybe I'm just getting old, and I'm quite happy to spend some of the kids inheritance, 5kw at a time 🤣 And think of all the money I'll be saving on consumables that something with boost needs, like engines, gearboxes, diffs, clutches,  tilt trays... etc. etc. etc. 🤪
    • Haha.  I wouldn't say I am either but I've definitely been around it plenty.  I'm guessing you know the dial in is basically to make a handicap to level the playing field between racers.  The car with the slower dial in goes first and in theory if they run their dial in time and the faster car also does then they cross the finish time if they also have exactly the same reaction time - if you go faster than the dial in them you lose, but if you are too slow there's a good chance the other person will get to the finish line first. I'm normally supporting other cars but they were all pretty dialled and were egging me on to race as well, here's one of the cars I tune (Starlet) which ran within like 1 hundredth of its dial in through the competition: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=inEBu-d9Gn4&t=69s
    • Where ever the fuel reg gets it reference is what I use to T into for map reference been a very long time so where it goes to plenum/runners I have no idea but never had issues. 
    • What ecu? Same shop every time? Same ambient temperature? If timing is correct then pull plugs and see if lean or rich. Dyno can also read different if they have changed ramp rate or not set tacho/speed properly  
×
×
  • Create New...