Jump to content
SAU Community

Boost Gauge and Pillar Pods

Messiah

By Messiah,
in Tutorials / DIY / FAQ

 Share

Recommended Posts

Al-R33 Enthusiast

Al-R33

Posted
Posted

Thanks Fry!

I found your pics and guide very useful!

Just thought I'd share what I did with my own install over the weekend.

For those who don't want to drill holes in their dash for the vacuum hose, you can run both the hose & wiring down a small gap where the door meets the pillar. This gap is large enough for the hose and electrical wiring, and does not crush or bend the hose when opening and closing the door. Just as an added precautionary measure, I wrapped the vacuum hose in some plastic piping from Supercheap. Even with the added thickness of the pipe, it still slid through the top gap in the door and out the bottom quite easily. Fasten it with some double sided tape or similar, and you're done! (just FYI I used stick on Velcro, also from Supercheap. This seemed to work the best for me).

On a side note I should also add that although the links to the pics in Fry's post don't work, you can right click and "Save Picture As.." just fine - the full sized pictures still seem to be on the server.

  • 3 weeks later...
Basti Grand Master

Basti

Posted
Posted
can the coppers defect you for havinga pillar pod installed?

iirc yes they can. i think the reason is that it can block vision. any guages or add ons need to be below the highest level of the factory dash. so DIN guages are cool but kinda crap cos you havta take you eyes off the road. i rekon the best compromise looks like the mearcat pods. looks as stock as possible

  • 9 months later...
  • 2 years later...
Guest

Guest

Posted
Posted

Good instructions, it's easier using the cigarette lighter power than working out other stuff.

Would like to add that the R33 GTR's don't have that hole in the firewall next to the stereo. Instead you'll have to cut open the large rubber grommet where the loom travels through, which is just to the right of the accelerator cable behind the insulating stuff.

Also I don't have the pillar gauge, just the one sitting on the air vent to the right corner of the dashboard, was best to run the vacuum hose down the vent and past the fuses and such.

Cheers

Ash

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By Kapr 路 Posted

      Ok guys thank you very much. GCG highflow it is then 馃檪 
    • JC71
      98 R34GTT 4k engine stumble

      By JC71 路 Posted

      forgot to mention that when it does this it does not kill the engine, but I have not kept the pedal down long enough to let it, as I see no reason to beat up on it as its got to be something simple, small and dumb causing this.  And as soon as I let off pedal, the engine returns to its normal super smooth operation and rpms re-stabilize quickly, once below 4k. 
    • JC71
      98 R34GTT 4k engine stumble

      By JC71 路 Posted

      neither stumble or cut really seem to be an appropriate term....hard to explain its like a rev limiter but at 4k, but it violently shakes engine and entire vehicle as the rpms will not rise over 4k, even with slow acceleration. as soon as it hits 4k, it sounds like entire spark is lost entirely. plugs were 1.1 which I used as such, but later put in new plugs gapped down to .8 changed back after issue arose when I replaced the coils, still does it with either plug gap...damn and it was all running so good.
    • TurboTapin
      Why am I hitting a power wall with my stroked RB25?

      By TurboTapin 路 Posted

      Oh how times have changed! I actually lean it out relative to my water/methanol injector duty cycle. The methanol adds a lot of fueling and you can then lean it out even more due to reduced knock. 
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Why am I hitting a power wall with my stroked RB25?

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu 路 Posted

      Yeah my thoughts are the same, a well thought out WMI setup, would be slightly ahead of just straight E85 and you're also chemically intercooling the charged air, dropping it even further. This is why you need to add so much more fuel as soon as you spray. I remember someone taking me through their set up before (Dennis, has a R33, lives around Cabramatta - no idea if he's still around on this forum). He would target AFR 10:1 on 98, then as WMI ramped on, AFR would lean back up to 11:1. Amazingly, he did this all through his PowerFC, a relay to cut power to his EBC solenoid if there was not enough line pressure on his WMI kit. And of course, if there wasn't any boost made above gate pressure, you wouldn't be accessing the load cells with heaps of timing for WMI. One downside to that rudimentary setup, once the WMI came on, the EBC would unleash the dragon, and of course all the timing. Tyres would fry lol.
脳
脳
  • Create New...