Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thanks Fry!

I found your pics and guide very useful!

Just thought I'd share what I did with my own install over the weekend.

For those who don't want to drill holes in their dash for the vacuum hose, you can run both the hose & wiring down a small gap where the door meets the pillar. This gap is large enough for the hose and electrical wiring, and does not crush or bend the hose when opening and closing the door. Just as an added precautionary measure, I wrapped the vacuum hose in some plastic piping from Supercheap. Even with the added thickness of the pipe, it still slid through the top gap in the door and out the bottom quite easily. Fasten it with some double sided tape or similar, and you're done! (just FYI I used stick on Velcro, also from Supercheap. This seemed to work the best for me).

On a side note I should also add that although the links to the pics in Fry's post don't work, you can right click and "Save Picture As.." just fine - the full sized pictures still seem to be on the server.

  • 3 weeks later...
can the coppers defect you for havinga pillar pod installed?

iirc yes they can. i think the reason is that it can block vision. any guages or add ons need to be below the highest level of the factory dash. so DIN guages are cool but kinda crap cos you havta take you eyes off the road. i rekon the best compromise looks like the mearcat pods. looks as stock as possible

  • 9 months later...
  • 2 years later...

Good instructions, it's easier using the cigarette lighter power than working out other stuff.

Would like to add that the R33 GTR's don't have that hole in the firewall next to the stereo. Instead you'll have to cut open the large rubber grommet where the loom travels through, which is just to the right of the accelerator cable behind the insulating stuff.

Also I don't have the pillar gauge, just the one sitting on the air vent to the right corner of the dashboard, was best to run the vacuum hose down the vent and past the fuses and such.

Cheers

Ash

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you put an aftermarket oil pressure gauge on and verified your oil pressure?   Noise being on the block, on exhaust side, how high up the block does it seem to be? It could be the VCT system getting cranky, especially if it's mainly at idle, and when warm, as that'll be your lowest point for oil pressure. Could be showing that oil passages / VCT solenoid are blocking.
    • Well, hydraulic lifters will get noisy if they are dirty/fouled in some way, and exactly how that manifests will depend on exactly what schmutz is where. There is a procedure on here somewhere for dismantling and soaking/cleaning them. Replacing them with new is about 50% of the work and about 5% of the money!
    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
    • This seems problematic and unlikely at the same time. Vanilla RB2Xs have hydraulic lifters. They do have "zero" clearance, but only when running with oil pressure inside them. When not running, you should be able to compress them and obtain heaps of clearance. RB26s and Neos have solid lifters. They should have ~0.3mm and ~0.5mm on the inlet and exhaust respectively. If they have zero clearance then bad things are happening. With nothing else being wrong, it would mean that the valves would be held slightly (ever so slightly) open when they are supposed to be closed and it should have all sorts of problems when running, caused by leakage in/out through the valves. Or, zero clearance can indicate severe valve seat recession. None of it is good. Have you used a piece of hose as a stethoscope to try to localise the noise?  
×
×
  • Create New...