Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys asking a big favour here i know but ill be moving to the gold coast in a few weeks and i havent had any luck with a job yet

if anyone has anything at all could you please pm me or post here

any help would be much much appreciated

ive been looking on seek etc already but yeah no luck yet

thanks heaps guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/102156-moving-to-the-gold-coast/
Share on other sites

For fairly unskilled work..I would be looking at customer sevice.. that sort of thing, as that is this sort of area.

AAPT often has openings available for call centre operators. The theme parks often have openings if you're a bit of a people person.

Even something like working for a cleaning company cleaning hotels, factories, or the like if you're really desparate to just get something.

There is plenty of construction around, so if you can handle labouring in the hot sun, there is a bit of that work around.

My suggestions anyhow.

Blue card, hard hat, and good work boots, many will require an abn too. The blue card is $75-100, and there are a few web sites where you can do the test.

But yeah, what are your actual skills.

thanks for youe help thus far guys

the job doesnt necessaraily have to be on the gold coast but within travelling distance each day

thanks

We cant help you unless you tell us your qualifications...

I mean there are 3 jobs i can think of off the top of my head. But all 3 require a little knowledge in their fields...

Maby you dont have any qualifications... But if you put the following we will be able to help;

1. Age

2. Location (suburb)

3. Car Y/N

4. Education Level

5. (most important) What jobs have u had and for how long?

Mate....

Just to be completelly honest now...

No... If you cant go to the effort of answering a few simple questions that really does nothing to identify you or harm you which will help other help u also. In order to get a job i dont think i would be keen on interviewing you as already im not hearing any enthuisam.

Sorry

OK....

The jobs i have on the books will be a little too much at the moment. Also fast food joints will say your 17 (meaning they could hire 2 x 14 year olds for the same dollar) So might i suggest getting back into retail (not iga) but more like Target or K-Mart. Become a shelf stocker, work your way up.

Yes retail means weekend work. But remember retail means air conditioned work and great rates ($$$) for casual and part timers. Also with retail you always have promotion in larger company's. I mean you can drop out of school at year 10 and still earn over 150k as a department manager for coles myer.... Think about it....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lucky man, who owns it in the family? Any pics? 
    • The engine stuff is Greg Autism to the Max. I contacted Tony Mamo previously from AFR who went off to make his own company to further refine AFR heads. He is a wizard in US LS world. Pretty much the best person on earth who will sell you things he's done weird wizard magic to. The cam spec is not too different. I have a 232/234 .600/603 lift, 114LSA cam currently. The new one is 227/233 .638 .634. The 1.8 ratio roller rockers will effectively push this cam into the ~.670 range. These also get Mamo'ified to be drilled out and tapped to use a 10mm bolt over an 8mm for better stability. This is what lead to the cam being specced. The plan is to run it to 6800. (6600 currently). The Johnson lifters are to maintain proper lift at heavy use which is something the LS7's supposedly fail at and lose a bit of pressure, robbing you of lift at higher RPM. Hollow stem valves for better, well everything, Valve train control. I dunno. Hollow is better. The valves are also not on a standard valve angle. Compression ratio is going from 10.6 to 11.3. The cam is smaller, but also not really... The cam was specced when I generated a chart where I counted the frames of a lap video I had and noted how much of the time in % I spent at what RPM while on track at Sandown. The current cam/heads are a bit mismatched, the standard LS1 heads are the restriction to power, which is why everyone CNC's them to get a pretty solid improvement. Most of the difference between LS1->LS2->LS3 is really just better stock heads. The current cam is falling over about 600rpm earlier than it 'should' given the rest of my current setup. CNC'ing heads closes the gap with regards to heads. Aftermarket heads eliminate the gap and go further. The MMS heads go even further than that, and the heads I have in the box could quite easily be bolted to a 7.0 427ci or 454 and not be any restriction at all. Tony Mamo previously worked with AFR, designed new heads from scratch then eventually founded his own business. There he takes the AFR items and performs further wizardry, CNC'ing them and then manually porting the result. He also ports the FAST102 composite manifold: Before and after There's also an improved racing crank scraper and windage tray. Helps to keep oil in the pan. Supposedly gains 2% power. Tony also ports Melling oil pumps, so you get more oil pressure down low at idle, and the same as what you want up top thanks to a suitable relief spring. There's also the timing chain kit with a Torrington bearing to make sure the cam doesn't have any thrust. Yes I'll post a before and after when it all eventually goes together. It'll probably make 2kw more than a setup that would be $15,000 cheaper :p
    • Because the cars wheels are on blocks, you slide under the car.   Pretty much all the bolts you touched should have been put in, but not fully torque up.   Back them off a turn or two, and then tighten them up from under the car with the wheels sitting on the blocks holding car up in the air.
    • Yes. Imagine you have the car on the ground, and you mine away all the ground under and around it, except for the area directly under each individual wheel. That's exactly how it'd look, except the ground will be what ever you make the bit under each wheel from
    • Yes, if you set the "height" right so that it's basically where it would be when sitting on the wheel. It's actually exactly how I tighten bolts that need to be done that way. However....urethane bushes do NOT need to be done that way. The bush slides on both the inner and outer. It's only rubber bushes that are bonded to the outer that need to be clamped to the crush tube in the "home" position. And my car is so full of sphericals now that I have very few that I need to do properly and I sometimes forget and have to go back and fix it afterwards!
×
×
  • Create New...