Running Your Stagea In Rwd Mode

[BoyWhoCriedWolf]

I got 202rwkw with pods, HKS dumps and Nismo front pipe.

[Ska]

At this point in time, unknown, but it is getting tuned soon, with the powerfc

[CruiseLiner]

tried to 2wd dyno mine and pulled the fuse and bleed the line at the rear of the transfer case, and even clamped it up, but still smoked the clutch packs on the dyno trying to pull the car off with the front wheels, thanks to a local shop that have done stageas before hahahah f**kin morons.

easiest way is to get a spare actuator from the rear of another gtr box and unscrew the main pressure line and screw it into the spare actuator and tie it up under the car and instant 2wd and the clutch packs cant possibly be under pressure from the attessa system, and the rear of the box is a sealed hole so u dont have to touch it and its perfect.

or the front driveshaft method, but that still would engage clutch packs and be trying to turn the front wheels (well the bits inside the box anyway as the shaft is not connected) so i reckon u could still be wearing it out.

best power to date was 350rwhp on 18psi

Edited January 19, 2006 by CruiseLiner

[sy300]

But there has been just a couple of additional bit put in it since then, so still waiting on my tune and then I'll be looking for a skidpan day to give it a go Personally I dont think I'll need or want to put it into rwd to drift it, the wieght and length would make it harder to keep on the drift wouldnt it?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Even in 4WD the Stagea can do some pretty nice, controllable dirfts on gravel. You can get the back to step out then have a little bit of opposite lock, and it just slides along straight down the road on an angle.

I tried to do it on a wet road, but just as the back felt like coming to meet me, the front pulled me in the direction the wheels were pointing. It was a weird feeling, as I'd never owned a 4WD car until now.

[funkymonkey]

as CruiseLiner just said, you can do some damage to the clutch packs with the fuse method. You'll never notice this if you take it for spin down the road or try to do a burnout, its only when the car's under sever load (ie dyno or on a track) that you'll see visible signs.

At the end of the day, its your call, and you'll have to bear the consequences.

[BoyWhoCriedWolf]

Had some fun in mine (wet season) in the corners. Then again, will do it in the dry too.

[Mr_RS4]

I personally want to make it RWD just for the fun of seeing what the stagea is like in RWD. So it shouldn't do any damage with the front driveshaft off and the gearbox internals still running. Has anyone done this on a regular basis. If so is everything still running OK. And I'm assuming its a simple matter of dropping the front shaft then bolting it back up when your done. Nothing else needs to be done to the ATTESSA system.

[Ska]

Just to keep all the info in one place, took this from another thread:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=105015

warning, dont believe those first few posts on that thread ska mentions, its gonna damage the clutch packs pulling a fuse, and even bleeding the attessa line does bugger all, except smoke clutch packs on a dyno.

i explained my method in the thread, which i believe is the best/safest way of running rwd, though maybe removing the front driveshaft is easy except u gotta take of the clutch slave cylinder off the gearbox to get it out, or remove the clutch hydraulic line from the slave.

mine was suprisingly grippy running 350rwhp and held better than my previous 2wd car with the rb26 in it (commodore). i think they have alot better suspension setup and only drama was i snapped an axle on the rear diff from launching off a set of lights, as the diff is non-lsd and all the power is going through one wheel only, but i chucked in the gtr lsd and its much better, though i havent used it stuff all since the diff conversion.

in about 3-4 weeks when mines tuned we shall see what power these stageas need to wreck gtr axles/uni joints 

i just wanna see if the stagea will drift nicely in 4wd and ill try 2wd also.

good luck

Brad

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

[burkey22]

Dont you need to pump the brake five times after you disconnect the plug?

This causes the 4WD light to flash and tells you youre in 2WD mode.

Or am I thinking of something else?

[CruiseLiner]

Dont you need to pump the brake five times after you disconnect the plug?

This causes the 4WD light to flash and tells you youre in 2WD mode.

Or am I thinking of something else?

ive heard that works before from jayr33 i think his nickname was, he reckons it worked, though the 4wd light coming up on the dash doesnt mean its definately in 2wd and the clutch packs are disengaged, as it holds the pressure untill u bleed the nipple underneath as it has a non return valve setup unlike the r32 gtr's. it will only drive 2 wheels but will be trying to grab the front wheels and slowly burning the clutch pads.

after a recent dyno run at a workshop they smoked the clutch packs from doing it wrong and i got the transfer case apart last night and all pads are wayyy thin, and i replaced the pads from my auto transfer case into the manual one and now its alot tighter and should operate better now

pull the front tailshaft off is the easiest way, its under 5 min work with a couple of 12mm spanners and a 14mm spanner to remove the clutch slave off the gearbox to be able to pull the shaft out easily. no need to disconnect the clutch line or anything so clutch doesnt need to be bleed and just bolt it back on and way u go in 2wd safely

[cefiro]

dont know if this could be the answer???

http://www.nengun.com/catalogue/product/899

or these

http://www.greenline.jp/catalogue/bblist.php?brand=GRID

All it must do is inhibit the sensor input so there is no reason why you cant make one of these yourself (if your good with electronics). Cause if there is no input telling it that there is no slipage then the front wont activate yeah????

[Ska]

That Greenline one states that it is compatible with Stage models WGNC34, but is this only compatible with those whom have stock ECU's, or are they run independant of ECU?

If independant then that is pretty good deal, I would much reather spend it buying something that will work than stuffing around with electronics, but that is also because I am a klutz and would most likely blow up the car

Still, good spotting these cefiro, so who is going to be brave and buy one?

[Lovechunks]

Does anyone know if the fuel consumption is improved by going RWD? and by how much?

[3intheBack]

I suppose you could review the 'fuel consumption' thread. A couple of us have RWD only S2's. Personally I cant see much difference with mine compared to other 4WD's.

From a purely mechanical side it has to be less effort for the motor as the drive train can easily suck 20 - 30% of the engines power. So the 2WD is always going to transfer more of its power to the wheels.

Reality is, fuel usage depends on how you drive. For me the boost surge is addictive and therefore, thirsty and expensive.

[GoldZilla]

Don't forget though, that the ATESSA system is not in a permanent AWD state, and is mostly in RWD mode until the fronts lose traction (although I'm sure there is at least some loss with the added CV joints and all that extra fluid, etc).

Because of this, I'd assume that this wouldn't impact as much on the fuel consumption, and it'd be more a case of the extra weight of the running gear (roughly 150-200kg's) adding to the already significant jump (roughly 200kg's again) over an R-33 Skyline...

[captinsane]

well...i tok the fuse out a few nights ago...had a run around in the wet and then put it back in... I'm servicesing the Stagea tomorrow so i'll see if anything happened...

was definately running in 2wd mode from what i can tell though...

[CruiseLiner]

well...i tok the fuse out a few nights ago...had a run around in the wet and then put it back in... I'm servicesing the Stagea tomorrow so i'll see if anything happened...

was definately running in 2wd mode from what i can tell though...

yer it will because the clutches for the front drive are only slightly on, but not enough to turn the front wheels, though its like slipping a clutch and it wont last long slipping it

pull the front shaft if u want 2wd simple as that, 10 min job with 2 spanners and a jack

[Stinky Rooster]

Don't forget though, that the ATESSA system is not in a permanent AWD state, and is mostly in RWD mode until the rears lose traction

Whilst this may be true in theory, having driven mine around for a week with a stuffed front driveshaft, I can tell you that the front wheels are under power a LOT more than you would think. I could tell when the fronts were coming on due to the knocking from the shagged uni and I discovered that the front wheels were being driven even at a cruising speed about 80kph.

IMO its only the ratio of f/r that changes with the attesa, not wether the fronts are being turned on and off.

[captinsane]

yer it will because the clutches for the front drive are only slightly on, but not enough to turn the front wheels, though its like slipping a clutch and it wont last long slipping it

pull the front shaft if u want 2wd simple as that, 10 min job with 2 spanners and a jack

bugger 'ey... I'll take your word for it dude...

was only for maybe 60kms of driving so shouldn't be too bad (though a fair bit of that was around roundabouts in the wet at 2am) ... Serves me right for listening to mates with GTR's instead of the collective knowledge of SAU!!!! (*Bows*)

[Stagstock]

Guys just wondering, if i pull the front shaft... what stops the trans or transfercase fluid from pouring out under heavy braking at the gearbox????? If it had bolts at both ends id do it... but concerned about the open hole left there