Running Your Stagea In Rwd Mode

[numleg]

Ok my turn to have a crack. Firstly my Stagea is a 260RS so it is a 33GTR driveline.

All three times my Stagea has been on a two wheel dyno we have pulled out the 4WD fuse and bled the fluid out of the transfer case, Not the line at the back of the transfer case.

After the dyno fuse back in and bleed the air out of the transfer case.

The car still smokes all 4 wheels.

The guy doing this has been tuning GTRs for years and always does it this way, I'd guess he would had a few complaints by now if he was killing transfer cases.

[pipster11]

that seems like the wrong procedure

not sure if this has been posted yet or not but this is from the gtr workshop manual and works on my s2 rs4s

(should be the same box as yours)

[KiwiRS4T]

Ok my turn to have a crack. Firstly my Stagea is a 260RS so it is a 33GTR driveline.

All three times my Stagea has been on a two wheel dyno we have pulled out the 4WD fuse and bled the fluid out of the transfer case, Not the line at the back of the transfer case.

After the dyno fuse back in and bleed the air out of the transfer case.

The car still smokes all 4 wheels.

The guy doing this has been tuning GTRs for years and always does it this way, I'd guess he would had a few complaints by now if he was killing transfer cases.

It probably does work but it is definitely the hard way!! It would be easier just to drop the front shaft but the method as described by Tom above is in the manual and I have done it successfully as have many others and (like others) I have put a switch in the circuit to make it even easier.

[KiwiRS4T]

[double post]

[wolverine]

Move along nothing new here.

[numleg]

It probably does work but it is definitely the hard way!! It would be easier just to drop the front shaft but the method as described by Tom above is in the manual and I have done it successfully as have many others and (like others) I have put a switch in the circuit to make it even easier.

Pulling a fuse and draining a cup of fluid is harder than removing prop shaft?

The method I described removes power from the ATTESA so it can't pump fluid to actuate the clutch packs and then removes the preload.

I would guess the method in the manual is pretty much doing the same thing via the ATTESA ecu.

[SLIXK]

On 10/25/2012 at 2:48 PM, numleg said:

Pulling a fuse and draining a cup of fluid is harder than removing prop shaft?

The method I described removes power from the ATTESA so it can't pump fluid to actuate the clutch packs and then removes the preload.

I would guess the method in the manual is pretty much doing the same thing via the ATTESA ecu.

So anyone else been doing it this way? What’s the correct way these days 🤣my atessa is playing up and I want to sort my dyno day out instead of going back and forth with diagnostic trying to fix the attessa system..

[Duncan]

Well firstly, good searching.

I'm not convinced there is a definitive answer (noting pipster11 quotes a translated workshop manual which is a good sign).

The accepted knowledge on the forums is that in 33 and 34 platforms, even with the electronics off there is still some potential drag on the clutches inside the transfer case. That means that even if the front wheels don't turn any more, the transfer case clutches themselves may be slipping and causing damage (requires a rebuild to fix). My guess is that people who have said it works OK had worn transfer cases already and they may not have much 4wd in the first place. To be safe I take the driveshaft out if I am putting the Stagea on a 2wd dyno, it is 4 bolts and out it comes.

In the 32 platform the setup is different (slower) and it is OK to electronically disconnect 4wd (remove the fuse, use a 4wd controller to turn it off etc)

[SLIXK]

On 8/2/2022 at 9:24 AM, Duncan said:

Well firstly, good searching.

I'm not convinced there is a definitive answer (noting pipster11 quotes a translated workshop manual which is a good sign).

The accepted knowledge on the forums is that in 33 and 34 platforms, even with the electronics off there is still some potential drag on the clutches inside the transfer case. That means that even if the front wheels don't turn any more, the transfer case clutches themselves may be slipping and causing damage (requires a rebuild to fix). My guess is that people who have said it works OK had worn transfer cases already and they may not have much 4wd in the first place. To be safe I take the driveshaft out if I am putting the Stagea on a 2wd dyno, it is 4 bolts and out it comes.

In the 32 platform the setup is different (slower) and it is OK to electronically disconnect 4wd (remove the fuse, use a 4wd controller to turn it off etc)

Sweet can you directly tell me what fuse to pull and if I need to flush the attessa fluid? 
 

I will tell my fabricator to pull the driveshaft for me because he’ll be sending the car straight to tuner for the dyno after fabrication.

Edited August 1, 2022 by SLIXK
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